Recent content by granitex

there is a shipping tie down on both sides, they are not rated as recovery points. There may or may not be a hook on the passenger side frame horn that is a recovery point. Not everybody got them, and they are not very good anyway, it is a hollow tube and I have broken a couple of them. You can...

More control is always better

there are more times than you would think that it is great to have the rear open and the front locked. It can help the rear track more straight instead of crab walking into deep ruts. it also makes steering a lot easier, the rear wants to push you in a straight line,

being part of that bumper remodel, I was the one who bent it out of the tire, I can attest to a shrock or RLC being a much better choice. much better.

a bad centerlink is a very common, and a lot of the time it is not really noticeable when the tires are off the ground. an IAB is always a good thing to look at, they are cheap insurance against bending an adjuster when they get stuck. you can always swap out the idler arm for a gutted...

could also be as simple as a loose battery connection

you may be able to find a deal on a free compressor if you get both lockers at the same time, I know that ARB runs that special from time to time and it might be wort your time to look.

there should be no movement in the bushings, and the movement that you described could still be rod ends and ball joints, as far as the hub questions go I ran a set of mile markers for years without issue, just remember to use lock tight on the studs as well as the lock washers. The mile...

just wait until you swap to 5:13 gears,,,,

I was just going to consider the tranny cross member as pre planning, moab style.

Got the rear re-geared last weekend, rebuilt the rear brakes, and did a crosmember out of a Kia lower control arm. Don't know how Brady knew that it would work so well or why he had one.

have not really had a lot of time to update, actually still sorting out a couple of things like re gearing the rear end this up coming weekend. Other than that it is pretty much a straight forward SAS, used a dana 44 out of a J10, spring under, 5:13 with a lockrite. Went with a 35 inch tire on...

It is not going to crate a softer ride per say, it is going to eliminate the harshness encountered by hitting the bump stops. Shocks and spring weight are what control the actual harshness, along with the tire choice that you are running.

the flat spot on the back of the bracket where it welds to the bumper, You can drill a couple of holes in the center so that you can have a greater area to weld the bracket to the bumper.

A couple of the nice things that you can do with that hinge bracket, is drill a couple of holes on the center of the mounting plate so you can plug weld it to the bumper along with the border of the bracket. Second thing is that you have room to put a couple of additional gussets on the bottom...