Sep 30, 2015
If you are lucky; you might be able to get away with rolling the rear fenders without the BL. Read what granitex said again. He sticks out less than a 4.75" BS
Im running 33 13.50s with a 4.75 bs. Nothing comes even close rubbing the frame or fenders on the rear.
I ran 33x12.5r15 procomps on mine with cranked tb's and a rear shackle. I had to trim the front bumper a bit and pulled the mud flaps and plastic corners on the front. And added a bump stop spacer to the rear. There was a bit of rubbing, but not enough to wreck the tires or body.
Awesome. Didn't want spacers lol thanks guys and thanks for the pics BEEFY
Of course they work with your 2" BL . TJTJ runs his OEM wheels with 13.50 plus his wheel spacer that overall sticks out more than you. That is obvious. Beefy is running 5.5" BS OEM steelies. Read what he did also.
I do not know why some people love to give bad information. Here are a couple pics for visual comprehension.
Here is a front end fully stuffed on 265/75/15s. Basically a 31x10.50x15.
Here is a rear end fully stuffed.
Most pics I see; people think they stuff and are nowhere near this. That is also not 5.5" BS. You plan on running less BS and a 2" wider section width tire plus 2" taller tire. Meaning you will be sticking out about 1.25" more than me plus an inch more up in the wheel well. I know for a fact that a 295/70/17 on a 4.5" BS wheel requires the rear fender to be rolled. It was not a problem rubbing the fender after that since there was no longer a sharp lip to cut the tire. A 295 is narrower than a 12.50.
I was asking about the tire rubbing on the frame, a BL doesn't move the frame so if it doesn't rub the frame with a BL it won't rub without one.
Also, yes, in your pictures the tire is stuffed in the front. We have established trimming is needed in the front. However, in the rear you still have tons of space with for a wider and taller tire.
Reread what I said about the skinnier 295. Just trying to save you the headache.
3" suspension lift, 295s, 4.5"BS, & rear fenders rolled. Not making this stuff up & not trying to sound like an ass.
The reason the fenders are rolled is due to the rotation process of the rear axle. Do not drop it had off a boulder or tree. That will tear the fenders up also.
Casper can run 35's because he is SOA in the back. That is what helps him to not compress into his rear fenders. He is also SAS up front with the Calmini kit. That is the reason he has zero need for a BL. But that is just minor details.:sure:
These debates are always fun. Im running 265/75-16 stock bs and sl front+rear with wrangler authorities (awesome tires btw). I went ahead and cleared out all the plastics except for the rear fenders. I rub nothing and could probably clear 33 12.50's but looking for something more around 285's or 295's at the largest. Srstaff and i have come to the conclusion that a narrower tire (according to weight) will be better off road for the majority of time unless you're bogging. If you rock crawl more often this would probably be advantageous and spare you from trimming as much. Unfortunately for us guys that would like to run 15's with 33 11.50's (almost ideal for our xterra weight) the only option is a bogger tire and that sucks.
Casper, actually you hit the bumpstops fully compressed but.........the OEM leaf pack with overload is 2". I know you run the OEM pack with the OL leaf removed but with usually 1 Calmini AAL which brings you close to 2". With the leaf pack plate on top of the axle will easily give you 2" total. More likely a little more. Plate is usually a good inch. That puts over 2" between bumpstop & axle which means the axle is atleast 2" away from the fender causing the wheel to be 2" away from the fender when compressed.
Here was the original question.
Yes. I have seen people run 33s w/o BL or anything major in the cutting dept. However, in order to tackle some of the big stuff you may discover you need a BL and some major trimming on the front. The rear should be just fine imo. This thread has just gotten confusing
Sorry for the late reply guys this is pretty much the only link ive seen with info on this guys fenders,
i read somewhere that he spent about 200 on metal and some guy to fab them, the big argument about his set up was that there wasn't a beam connecting them through the engine bay, thus "having no support" if hit but the guy said he didnt have any issues and that he was running 35 inch tires
Also found this Link http://www.xterraownersclub.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=274398
Ok. I am not trying to be rude with this more simplistic visualization. Pretend the leaf pack is a 2x4 piece of wood. If the "2x4" is under the axle; the axle hits the bumpstop(SUA). Now put the "2x4" on top of the axle. The "2x4" hits the bumpstop not the axle (SOA). Explain how that "2x4" on top of the axle (that pushes the axle 2" further from the bump stop)gets the wheel closer to the fender vs the "2x4" under the axle.
Put 33s on see if and what you need to trim and if you feel its too much trimming then do a BL.
BL or change your wheel BS.
I agree, put the 33`s on and see how you like it. Then trim or lift as you want. I never did more to mine as I always planed on doing a sas once the stock drive train wore out.
Thanks for bringing this back to the OP lol did not mean for this to become a huge debate. I knew I would have to trim the front, just wanted to know where ahead of time!
No worries! Thanks for the reply!
That would be the plan! Not sure what all this arguing was about.
Lol. That's the norm on forums.
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Orrr I can throw them on and see what I have to trim lol
I'm not trying to do this w/out trimming, which seems to be your mindset
Agreed that you can put them on and see how much you would have to cut static. Just remember you will be cutting more metal when you flex the suspension. It is the flex of the suspension that causes you to cut more metal than most prefer since they are trying to keep it stock looking visually. I think you can make it look good if you cut it right. There will not be "trimming".
33's without a BL fit just fine. Just plastic cutting.
Nice...love the old school Nissan pathy wheels.
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i did it for about 1 or 2 months before a body lift. I had to cut a lot off. basically back to the door jam
For a 33 to really fit, you will end up cutting back to the cab corner at the bottom, beating the pinch seam in the fender well flat with a BFH, and more than likely move the shield on the passenger side up a couple inches or it will get it will get done by mother nature.
I did not require metal cutting. All OEM bumpstop locations. Both sway bars removed. Have to do a bunch of plastic cutting if you want the bumper plastic extensions to stay on. Cut the front fender flap plastic flush and ground down some of the plastic ridges. The rear cannot fit anything more that a 33 with the way I stuff it. Anything bigger would require cutting both sides of the wheel well opening. Rear barely rubs on the inboard side. Also barely touch the rear bumper cap. Does it enough to show you it is knocking the mud off the plastic. If I added 1/4" BS that might be enough to clear the inboard rub or I can just hammer the body back a little bit. Might possibly think about that just to make the rear flex easier that little bit. Most people would not even notice the rub while driving. If I added that extra 1/4" BS up front; I would be cutting metal up front.
Were those 33"s when we wheeled back in March?
I was on 31's back in March when we hit up Stoney Lonesome OHV.
These little guys.
Finally got around to getting the rear spaced better. 33's tuck in nicely now and do not rub frame or body on the inboard side. Never a need for a BL.
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