ABS/ VDC Off/ Slip light on and loss of 4x4 after river crossing

[maillet282]

went out wheeling with my local group today, and after a water crossing I ended up noticing that my dash pretty much lit up like an Xmas tree. ABS, VDC Off, Slip light were constantly on. then once I started my truck back on after a short stop ( 30 minutes or so) I noticed that my 4x4 indicator ( the drive train icon on the dash) was blinking like when trying to get in or out of 4wd. Tried to continue wheeling thinking I might have bumped the knob and turns out I don't have any 4x4 and ended up getting stuck. we ended up tricking the truck into shifting into 4 Hi and it staid that way until I was leaving the trails on the highway. Now the lights are still on and if I try to shift into 4Hi the drive line icon just blinks. I am going to see if there are any pending codes tomorrow after work. I can't remember where I read the resistance for the ABS sensor wires ??? also what els should I check

 

[Rammer'sX]

Probably a sensor got dirty and it is not sending the signal or a sensor got damaged...

 

[maillet282]

ya going to look more into it tomorrow when it's light out. probably going to throw her up on stands and take the tires off and do a full inspection. it was getting too dark for me to do it when I got home.

 

[obi_krash]

Everytime my lights have lit up like that are because something happened to the ABS line. So it was tugged on to much or once it was sliced.

 

[maillet282]

I read somewehere ( not sure if it was here or on TNX) that somebody had the resistance in Ohms for the ABS lines. Still trying to find those numbers and will start tracking this down tonight after work.


EDIT: Found it. somebody made a how to on TNX.

 

[maillet282]

had time to check with a code reader and pulled no codes but when I checked with my Superchip cortex programmer this is what it turned up
P1212 - ABS/TCS Communication Line
V1001
c1704
c1705 -Throttle Position Sensor/Circuit A/T
c1706- PNP Switch/Circuit
c1707

still trying to figure out the other codes

EDIT: Adding more code information

 

[granitex]

more than likely a connection got wet and the signal that the computer was looking for never made it through. It will either dry out on its own, or you nwill have to open them and clean them out. I would put money on the first option, but if you start pulling connections apart put some di-electric grease in them.

 

[TJTJ]

It helps to spray your entire electrical system, and alternator, etc, with Si SPray before heading out, preferably, before it gets dirty the first time, etc. This helps to slough off the crud that prays onto stuff.

If you do crossing more slowly (Yeah, every one want a pic with a giant rooster tail....) it tends to not mess you up so bad too.

 

[maillet282]

wasn't going fast at all. just enough to keep momentum to not stay stuck. still going to be looking through this the rest of the week and into the weekend when I will be able to lift the truck on stand and take the wheels off

 

[maillet282]

Ive been checking all of the conections and such this am and this is what I have noticed. if I pull the ABS/ECU fuse, and shift the 4wd selector button into 4Hi then put the fuse back in the Tcase will switch then I can switch from 4 hi to 4lo as I want. only issue is to go from 2wd to 4Hi any ideas. re scanned with the Code reader and my super chip and no codes pending.

what should I look at next

 

[Rammer'sX]

What about corroded abs sensor wire harness? That has happened to me in the past.

 

[maillet282]

everything ABS wise checked out. I need to do the diagnostic tap dance that is listed in NYX's thread over on TNX to figure out where my problems is

 

[Rammer'sX]

Good luck

 

[emtmark]

Thread revival, did you figure it out?

 

[maillet282]

Yes had to bring it to Nissan and turned out that it was a bad wheel speed sensor ( the exact sensor that I had a branch stress when I was wheeling

 

[emtmark]

Thanks!

 

[metzican]

I was going to say I had a similar issue a week ago or so. My bullydog only reads engine codes and so do auto parts stores. I could not fined a cut or stress on an ABS line. I figured it was a certain wheel by the way the cable was ran. So I brought it to a dealership and they were able to tell me what sensor it was. I then ordered a new one and replaced. it. I did solder up my old one as a trail spare. I'm yet to test if my soldering was good enough. This has worked for others in the past.

Also as a note. This is what Boondox told me to do to trick the system.

*your X must be running

" If your 4wd goes out again due to abs issue.
Just switch the knob to 4hi and go unplug and plug back in your front drivers abs while the vehicle is in park. It will get you into 4wd then you can shift into 4low normally. It will also go back to 2wd normal like. It just needs the abs unplugged and reattached to enable 4wd"

 

[maillet282]

Also as a note. This is what Boondox told me to do to trick the system.

*your X must be running

" If your 4wd goes out again due to abs issue.
Just switch the knob to 4hi and go unplug and plug back in your front drivers abs while the vehicle is in park. It will get you into 4wd then you can shift into 4low normally. It will also go back to 2wd normal like. It just needs the abs unplugged and reattached to enable 4wd"

I don't know if Boondox method works. But for me I was able to switch from 2wd to 4hi by switching the selector to 4 hi then going into the fuse panel in the engine bay and pulling the ABS/ECU fuse and replacing it. That was enough to trick the ECU into thinking the truck is supposed to be in 4Hi. That way if your in a bit of mud or a wet spot your not trying to disconnect a connector under your rig

 

[TheFauxFox]

I just had a dealer solve this for me. I had two nasty connectors on the T-case which may or may not have caused 2 relays to short.

 

[Dmilli0501]

Going to resurrect this dreaded topic...

So, I have done my research on these annoying lights and all the probable causes that initiate their vibrancy on the dashboard.
A little back story:
I purchased the truck a few weeks ago and the owner told me that he recently has replaced the front struts, radiator, battery and upgraded the stereo.

According to the wonderful information out here on the line; some of this repairs / upgrades can cause these lights to glow endlessly! I have checked all fluids, they all are full and have the appropriate color they should. I have unhooked the battery for 30 minutes and reconnected it to then drive into a straight line while praying this strategy did the trick, to no avail. I have had our glorious Autozone check the vehicle for codes related to this issue, none!

I plan on changing the transmission fluid this weekend and going to Matic S fluid accompanied with Lucas Transmission Slip.

I am hoping there is information out there that I haven't read yet, maybe even a way to check codes deeper then what Autozone can do.

Vehicle Info:
2006 Xterra X Model
169,000 Miles
Automatic with 4WD

Thanks In Advance!

 

[maillet282]

All of my issues were caused by a bad wheel speed sensor. I will see if I can find the thread for the readings on TNX.

 

[maillet282]

@Dmilli0501

http://www.thenewx.org/forum/15-how-tos/112170-how-test-abs-wires-sensors-pbr.html

Here is the how to that will give you the info to test to see if your wheel speed sensors got damaged while changing out your front coilovers

 

[Dmilli0501]

@maillet282

Thanks for digging up the info! I will read up on it and see if that could be my issue. I initially thought that would be the issue when I bought this truck because I have dealt with the same issue and lights on our Maxima and again on the Denali we just sold. I detoured from that thought process because there were no codes recovered when I took it to AutoZone. I will see if I get another shop to check for codes as well. Thanks for the help!

 

[maillet282]

Sometimes you need a more detailed scanner to pull these codes. I know my $200 one didn’t pull anything but when I took it to Nissan the consult 2 pulled up the ones I posted earlier in the thread