Im in the middle of installing my BL. I have the kit from AC. I have all the pucks installed. I don't know what i need to do with the radiator. To me it looks like i don't need to do anything to it but i know i have a part to drop it down. Can someone help me with this? Im assuming the long Shroud piece of metal i have is for the this. The kit doesn't explain any of the parts. Also I've read that most people don't use a lot of the parts in this kit. What are those parts? Like i said Im 75% finished. I just have to put the x back together now. A little worried about the radiator. Any help will be appreciated.
BL Help
- Thread starter csparks13
- Start date
All the hoses look good. Nothing is pulling. I ran out of daylight so I will get back at it tomorrow. My question about inches of lift. Im getting a lot of lift with my PML and BL. I need to read up on how to post pictures in here. I guess I wasn't thinking my x would be so high.
Xebra
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO
...Didn't have to do anything with my radiator. Just filled it with needed fluid. The hoses were fine. Just watch them for leakage for a few weeks.
Xebra
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO
Drive conservatively for a while until you get used to it.
Trying to post pictures. forgive me if I get it wrong.
http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/codysprayberry/library/Xterra
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- Location
- Western Massachusetts
As far as lift is considered, a body lift will lift it exactly the thickness of the pucks...1", 2", or 3" BL's will give you 1", 2", or 3" of lift.
As far as your PML height is concerned, some people get different amounts of lift out of their PML. It depends on how sagged out your suspension was from the beginning, and how close you mind the bump stop gap. MOST people get IIRC about 1.5" out of their PML.
I chose to go a little bit heavy on the # of turns on the adjusters when I did mine and squeezed maybe 1.75" out of it. The bump stop gap on my truck is smaller than most, and smaller than recommended. The ride really only suffers if I go over big drops in the road, like over hilly train tracks...I can feel the down-travel max out. FWIW, I've noticed NO ill side effects on my CV shafts, which is where the concern really lies. I was able to get a very good alignment as well, which is another concern of over-cranking the torsion bars.
All that being said...are you still running the factory bump stops? What's your gap measure?
As far as your PML height is concerned, some people get different amounts of lift out of their PML. It depends on how sagged out your suspension was from the beginning, and how close you mind the bump stop gap. MOST people get IIRC about 1.5" out of their PML.
I chose to go a little bit heavy on the # of turns on the adjusters when I did mine and squeezed maybe 1.75" out of it. The bump stop gap on my truck is smaller than most, and smaller than recommended. The ride really only suffers if I go over big drops in the road, like over hilly train tracks...I can feel the down-travel max out. FWIW, I've noticed NO ill side effects on my CV shafts, which is where the concern really lies. I was able to get a very good alignment as well, which is another concern of over-cranking the torsion bars.
All that being said...are you still running the factory bump stops? What's your gap measure?
- Location
- Western Massachusetts
I see...the measurement should be taken between the upper plate and the top of the OEM bump stop. The OEM stops are pretty thick...I think at least 1"...so if you've got 1" between the metal I think you went too far.
- Location
- Western Massachusetts
- Location
- Western Massachusetts
Yeah, the measurement should be 1/2" - 3/4" from the top of the OEM bump stop to the upper surface that it contacts.
Now, I don't recommend this, but:
You may be able to leave it where it's at and install the low-profile bump stops. HOWEVER, every truck is different and it's possible (likely, really) that you won't be able to get a good alignment and your truck will eat tires, ball joints, and cv shafts. Your ride will suffer as well, and you'll find that the front suspension droop maxes out over quick hills and bumps. It makes for a rough ride, trust me.
- Location
- Western Massachusetts
No problem man, glad I could be of some help.
Can you tell me what the top brackets are for? I know the ones on the left are for the front bumper relocation. But the other parts Im not so sure of.
As far as your bracket question is concerned, I can't be of any assistance there, sorry. I've never done a BL and my truck doesn't have one (bummer, I want bigger tires!)
Can you tell me what the top brackets are for? I know the ones on the left are for the front bumper relocation. But the other parts Im not so sure of.
The brackets on the left are for the bumper relocation I think... long bracket is the radiator lift..
Not sure with the others... I made my own brackets for the front bumper and rigged up the 3 stud bracket that came off the rear and drilled a hole in the frame...
idratherbe
Skid Plates
- Location
- North Shore, MA
Can you tell me what the top brackets are for? I know the ones on the left are for the front bumper relocation. But the other parts Im not so sure of.
Upper left are for the bumper
Top middle are for the radiator
Top right are for the power steering reservoir
Bottom is also for the radiator
i would have never guessed the top right. As it sits the radiator doesn't look like it needs anything. Just by looking at these parts I assume the long piece at the bottom get mounted to the bottom on the radiator and the top blocks go on the top of it, is this correct? Are these some of the "extra" parts people talk about being left over from the AC kit? I also didn't do anything with the gas nozzle extension.
idratherbe
Skid Plates
- Location
- North Shore, MA
Correct, I had my radiator out anyway so I used the drop pieces. They keep everything in line but I don't see a lot of people use them.
robcarync
Sliders
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
as far as the bump stop clearances go…you can just take your bump stops out completely…I did that with no issues. The issue of over lifting has to do with alignment…so if you can get an alignment and it is all in the green, the bump stop gap is irrelevant, assuming you aren't maxing out the down travel.
I recently installed some low profile bump stops…but realized it did nothing for me because with no bump stops at all, I had more than enough down travel and never maxed it out.
I am interested in radiator drops…if you end up relocating it, post some pics and let us know how it went.
I recently installed some low profile bump stops…but realized it did nothing for me because with no bump stops at all, I had more than enough down travel and never maxed it out.
I am interested in radiator drops…if you end up relocating it, post some pics and let us know how it went.
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idratherbe
Skid Plates
- Location
- North Shore, MA
Bolt the new bumper brackets to the bumper using the threaded part of the bracket, then bolt everything on to the frame horns with the factory bolts.
BKxterra718
Bought an X
- Location
- Brooklyn, NY
Ive done 3 BL's last year and every time we dropped the radiator using the bracket or a custom one. My mounts were rusted so my buddy cut them off and drilled the bracket in, i'll take pics in the morning for ya.
www.justinandersdenmark.com
www.justinandersdenmark.com
robcarync
Sliders
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
pics would be great...My radiator mounts aren't too great and I need a better solution. I never relocated it though, but I need to come up with something
What a weekend that was. I would have to say the hardest part was taking everything off but almost every task had its own challenge. I couldn't have done it without the DIY on this site. On the drive home last night the radiator hose popped off and overheated. Actually the neck on it cracked off. So a new radiator is going in this week. I wasn't able to get the stock brush guard back on. I'm sure it needs new mounts but like many I'm just going to leave it off. I planned on taking the stock step bars off as well but my daughter is 5 and she will not be able to get in without them. Ill keep them in order to keep her out of stitches. Overall after my BL and PML I got 3.5" of lift in the front and 4" in the back. Here a couple pictures. I have a bunch more but ill post a build thread once I get the tires on this weekend.
Pre BL and PML
Post BL and PML
Pre BL and PML
Post BL and PML
idratherbe
Skid Plates
- Location
- North Shore, MA
Looks good! While you have the radiator out, you should use the brackets that came with the kit.
Chetter
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Chattanooga, TN
Looks great! It's gonna look great with bigger tires!
Thanks guys. I will def use those spare parts now. I have a full set of 33x12.5x15 duratrac tires and unique wheels (basically soft 8's) on the way. Oh and I also have new bilstein 5100 on the way also. The monroes I have on it now sure look like they are maxed out in the back. So the bullet was bitten and they should be here this week also. Have to get a little OT now to pay for all my toys. Thank you Oil and Gas industry.
Here is a pic with the AC shackles on the DS and the stock ones on the PS. Oh and the exhaust is not cut back to the hanger. Frustration will draw you to cutting stuff that gets in your way. That back bumper pushed the buttons one too many times.
Here is a pic with the AC shackles on the DS and the stock ones on the PS. Oh and the exhaust is not cut back to the hanger. Frustration will draw you to cutting stuff that gets in your way. That back bumper pushed the buttons one too many times.
Ive put almost 100 miles on it and Im not getting a loud squeeking noise coming from the front of the X. Sounds like ckreking in the suspension and I can feel it in my feet by the driver side floor. Its when Im turing at slower speeds and also when I get in and out of it. Ive read a few posts about having to tighten/check all the bolts. Hopefully this will solve my issue. I have both the front and rear sway bars still on. Do I need to do anything to those post BL and PML?
robcarync
Sliders
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
Look at the body mount 3rd from the front...there is a flange that sometimes can rub on the metal, causing a squeak. You can get a pry bar in there and bend it out some for extra clearance.
Did you relocate the radiator?
Did you relocate the radiator?
robcarync
Sliders
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
What kind of hoses did you get?
I am surprised my radiator hasn't cracked yet...I need to either drop it down or get longer hoses. Did you get longer for the top and bottom, or just the top?
I am surprised my radiator hasn't cracked yet...I need to either drop it down or get longer hoses. Did you get longer for the top and bottom, or just the top?
CaptainMorgan_SOS
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Alamogordo, NM
When I did mine, the longer top one was all that was needed. The bottom has that big curve in it, so it had enough extra material to where the BL didn't really affect it at all. The top one though, has little to no play, so the longer one is HIGHLY recommended, even if the stock one is working, because one day, it won't anymore and you'll be sitting in a Autozone parking lot with a cloud of steam rising out of the hood of your Xterra and antifreeze pouring out onto the ground beneath it...
Intender
Wheeling
- Location
- Lewisville NC
if idea is, if your driveshaft comes loose or snaps a ujoint that the safety look will catch it and keep it from flopping around under the truck and destroying things as it flails about, or if the front of the driveshaft somehow managed to come out of the slip yoke without the rear having come lose from the axle (pretty much 0% chance) it keeps it from hitting the grount and impaleing it throwing your truck airborne. in reality if you are the kind of person who listens to your truck you will catch it before catastrophie happens and more importantly the xterra has a cross member right there that should catch the shaft if it breaks loose and keep that from happening. I took mine off after the body lift for the same reasons you did. the squeak drove me insane.
robcarync
Sliders
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
I don't have a drive shaft loop...
I tossed it out...
LOOKING GOOD THOUGH!!!!
I tossed it out...
LOOKING GOOD THOUGH!!!!
Thanks guys. I see the safety loop the same way. I'm keeping it in a safe place in my garage. I drive 35-45 mph on my commute each day. Only time it will get driven hard is at my deer lease. I doubt I'll be jumping hills there either. I can't stand that rattle/squeeking noise. I take care of it also. 10 years old and it's pretty much spotless in and out. Well except for the slice and dice fenders. Guess I need to do a build thread now. I appreciate y'all's help.