ChiXterra's SAS (in depth)

ChiXterra

Wheeling
ChiXterra's SAS (Cost/Info)... Updating!

I know I have my build thread, but this thread will list all expenses, and info about my SAS. It is intended to give people a better idea of cost involved, and different routes you can take with an SAS.

Front Axle: Dana 44, High Pinion, from a 1979 Ford F-250,

Info: Coming Soon

Rear Axle: Ford 9", from the same 1979 Ford Bronco


The Ford 9" (semi-float) axle is a very common axle, it can be found in everything from the Bronco, to the Mustang. It offers a wide arrangement of options for ring and pinions, as well as lockers (as does the Ford D44). Parts are easy to come by as well. It comes with either 28 or 31 spline axle shafts, and can be upgraded to 35 spline shafts if needed. It comes with two large drum brakes, which are larger than our stock Nissan drums. Like our Nissan rear axles, the axle shafts must be removed, and then you can remove the yoke to pull out the carrier/gears.

Cost: $250 for empty housing D44 and 9"

Lockouts:

You have a couple of options (Warn and Mile Marker), but I chose to go with Warn. They're a complete unit, and they're tough.

Cost:

Lockers:


There are numerous options for lockers. You can use something like the Detroits, which is also comparable to the Yukon Grizzly. Your can run a lunchbox locker up front (USA Standard Spartan), you can run air lockers (ARB, Yukon Zip Locker), or even an electronic locker up front (Eaton E-Locker). I am going to test out a mini-spool in the rear, with chromolly cross-pins.

Cost: $585 for the front, $30 for the rear

Ring and Pinions:

Coming Soon

Cost:

Leaf Springs:

I chose to go with a set of Rubicon Express 2.5" lift YJ leaf springs. They're going to be a stiffer spring, but with an engine swap, it should balance out well.

epure5et.jpg


Cost: $200

Front Driveshaft:

Coming Soon

Cost: I am budgeting $600

Misc Items:

Because of the age of the axles, it is most likely that you will need to replace seals, races, bears, etc. For that you will need either a Master Overhaul kit for each axle (or in my case, a connection to the local autoparts store). I bought basic ring and pinion install kits, and everything else will come from the autoparts store. You will also need new u-joints for the front axle.

Cost: I'll let you guys know

More coming.... But I'll make another post for that...
 
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ChiXterra

Wheeling
Shock Hoops:

Just some universal hoops which I'll modify if I need to.

Cost: $55

Differential Cover:

You don't have to get one, but it gives that cool effect. There are quite a few options (ARB, Blue Torch Fab, Solid, etc.). Just make sure that you get one that fits the reverse rotation Ford D44. I bought the Solid Nodular Iron cover.

Cost: $75

Rear Brakes:

You can do the rear disc brake conversion, which adds time and money. Or, you can purchase new drums, and a re-build kit to redo the rear drum brakes. They're big drums, and should offer plenty of stopping power. This also may save you from having to get a better M/C (yet to be proven), and a proportioning valve.

Cost: $130

Front Brakes:

Chances are you can salvage some things for the front brakes. To me, this is by far the most simplistic front brake system (single cylinder). The way the calpier is held makes removal very easy. It is possible to salvage the front calipers, but I was only able to get one to work. The other's cylinder was seized. I bought a re-build kit for the one, and bought a whole new caliper for the other. Both have been painted, and re-assembled. The rotors used up front are a tad over 11", and they provide plenty of stopping power for our Xterras. I am using "Red" Pads from Carquest for the brake pads, and the rotors are also from them as well. Rockauto sells some slotted rotors, but I didn't think it was worth my expense.

Cost: $39 for new caliper, $4 for re-build kit, $9 for new hardware, $10 for paint, and $60 for rotors
 
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ChiXterra

Wheeling
Steering Setup

Price: $229

Complete Offroad sells a steering kit for the Dana 44 axles, you can either get heims or tie rods. I'm choosing to go with tie-rods. It comes with each TRE that you need, as well as the DOM tubing, lock nuts, weld able inserts, etc. also.

High Steer Bracket

Price: $60

There's numerous ones you can buy, but I found one on Fleabay that is made using the same process as the Blue Torch Fab one. It also has the 10 degree incline for the chevy TRE. Remember, you need to have a machine able flat top knuckle for this. I'm only running a high steer setup on the passenger side. The steering setup will run from the pitman arm to the high steer arm, and the drag link will span the front axle, mounting on the lower portion of the knuckles.
 
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Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Awesome... subbed.

Any thoughts on the ford 8.8 rear axle disk brake swap? Though I suppose the fullsize drums are entirely proper and its a option for some day.
 

ChiXterra

Wheeling
Awesome... subbed.

Any thoughts on the ford 8.8 rear axle disk brake swap? Though I suppose the fullsize drums are entirely proper and its a option for some day.

They do make the rear disc brake swap for the 9" too. It uses the stock Ford rotors, but it utilizes the 1980's Chevy Calipers (such as off of the Toronado). And, if you want a parking brake, you're stuck with the Toronado. Plus, then you'll need a new M/C, and probably a proportioning valve. Cyclemut convinced me to stay with the drums.
 

Kuzmovka

Bought an X
Location
Colorado
How wide are those axles man? I may have the ability to do a dual swap myself over the summer for my senior project, I just need to know what axles to throw under the X. So far it is looking a lot like what you have going, ford axles and leaves, although I was also thinking a 3 link up front. Anyways, What are the widths?
 
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