Code P0430 catalytic converter.

Deihmos

Test Drive
Last edited:

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
Quite. There's a sensor in the exhaust manifold, then another after the first cat. If you follow the exhaust, you'll see after the last sensor the 2nd "cat", then the Y pipe and then on to the muffler. Nothing to monitor what the 2nd one is doing. The engine takes the signals from the two sensors to see how efficient the system is running.

And, after checking the service manual... I'm saying to either shotgun the rear sensor on the passenger side or to move it out of the exhaust using a CEL Eliminator.
 

Deihmos

Test Drive
Quite. There's a sensor in the exhaust manifold, then another after the first cat. If you follow the exhaust, you'll see after the last sensor the 2nd "cat", then the Y pipe and then on to the muffler. Nothing to monitor what the 2nd one is doing. The engine takes the signals from the two sensors to see how efficient the system is running.

And, after checking the service manual... I'm saying to either shotgun the rear sensor on the passenger side or to move it out of the exhaust using a CEL Eliminator.

Man this is disappointing. Any idea how much a job like this will cost? I guess I have to replace both Cats because the second one from the engine has something lose inside. When I accelerate the engine makes a sound sometimes and the mechanic said it is because the cat is bad.
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
The rattle is likely a heat shield. Crawl under the truck and bang on the exhaust. Either rip off what rattles or put a clamp around it.

Can't tell you a cost for replacing the cat, but a cel eliminator is pretty cheap.
 

Deihmos

Test Drive
I changed the upper catalytic and everything is back to normal. Not hearing the weird sound from the engine. I have had a code about knock sensor from the day I bought the vehicle 8 years ago. Is it worth looking into?
 

Deihmos

Test Drive
That's what I read but why don't I need it ? I've been living without for 8 years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
When the code is active (never sets the light btw), ignition get retarded, eliminating the knock. The down side of this is it causes less power to be made, not that the NA vg33 makes much anyway. The problem is the sensor I'd in arguably the hottest part of the engine, in the valley and under the intake. Virtually no air movement happens there so the heat just sticks there and doesn't really dissipate. The end result is the plastic of the sensor gets brittle and eventually cracks, destroying the sensor.
 

granitex

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Columbus OH
For the KS, most people either do a relocation mod with a maxima one, or do the resister mod and do away with it. either option are a lot quicker than replacing the original, and do the same thing. The only other thing to consider is if you have a SC, but you don't so it is not part of the decision process.
 

Deihmos

Test Drive
Thanks I just saw a video on YouTube on how to do this and think I can do it myself. What isn't clear though is if he is using a KS from the maxima or just the wire harness.
 

scoyoc

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Quite. There's a sensor in the exhaust manifold, then another after the first cat. If you follow the exhaust, you'll see after the last sensor the 2nd "cat", then the Y pipe and then on to the muffler. Nothing to monitor what the 2nd one is doing. The engine takes the signals from the two sensors to see how efficient the system is running.

And, after checking the service manual... I'm saying to either shotgun the rear sensor on the passenger side or to move it out of the exhaust using a CEL Eliminator.
This was posted in 2016. Is this still you line of thinking? Just checking, my X just threw P0430.
 

Carsaremytoys

Test Drive
Location
53549
Not the same guy, but more or less.
The first o2 sensor monitors the engine, makes necessary fuel adjustments. The second monitors the cat. Plenty of times I've either had bad cats or deleted them and used spark plug non foulers to extend the o2 sensor mount/bung, moving the sensor away from the exhaust stream. The sensor naturally reads less emissions and doesn't throw a code.
You can get the non foulers from an auto parts store, drill them out so that they can accept the o2 sensor.
You can get angled ones from ebay if you have clearance issues. Not called spark plug non foulers there, something along the lines of o2 sensor extenders.
 

scoyoc

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Fort Collins, CO
How did you remedy this @scoyoc? My X 05 just threw the P0430 today. Cleared, didn't come back on.
I cleared it originally and it stayed of for a couple weeks before it popped back on. I ignored it for a few weeks and it cleared on its own. For most of the summer it come back on when I drove on dirt and clear after a couple hundred miles of pavement. It cleared for most of the fall, and came back on when in November. I got sick off seeing it and took it to the dealer in January and had my bank 2 cat replaced. $2000 later it's gone, for now.

I never saw performance issues, in fact I was getting good gas mileage in Dec & Jan (~20 mpg). Someone told me if the cat goes it can blow up your engine and I started getting sketched, so I finally took it in. I ended up going ~12,000 miles from the time the code first went off until I had the cat replaced. Next time I might just wait until I start seeing decreased performance before replacing the cat, idk.
 
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