Gen 1.5 DIY: Bake, Open, Paint, Install HID Projectors, Profit?

Prime

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Okay, so I wanted to do a step by step.

How to disassemble, bake, paint, install HID projectors, finish and install Gen 1.5 headlights.

I started with brand new off the shelf headlights. So I won't cover truck disassembly at this point. That comes later.

Tools:
Phillips head screwdriver
Flat head screwdriver
Oven
Aluminum foil
Razor knife

Start: Bright Shiny and New!
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Remove the two black screws that are attaching the outer plastic shroud from the main body of the headlight.
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With those removed, carefully work off all the clips that hold the bezel in place. The side with the rubber gasket (turn signal and parking light end) has to be the last place to come apart. It kind of hinges out once you have the rest removed.

Now you have this!

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Now. Set the bezel aside. We're going to paint that later.

Flip the headlight over. Remove all the rubber on the back. There's two vent hoses that just pull off. There is a rubber gasket around the headlight socket. Just pop it off at the base with a flathead screwdriver.

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There's also two screws that are behind the turn signal / marking light location. Remove those now. That way when the headlight is hot, you don't have to worry about it.

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Now. Bake.

I have a gas oven. Set it to 215°. Take out the second shelf. Lay a piece of foil across the bottom grate to deflect the direct heat from the headlight.

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Place the headlight inside and let sit for 15 minutes. While that's happening, go find yourself some gloves. Because you'll want both the dexterity and heat protection when that thing comes out of the oven.

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When they come out, work fast. The glue is now soft and pliable but it won't stay that way for long.

Grab the flathead and start at one corner. Insert screwdriver and slowly pry the corner open. If you waited the full 15 minutes, you should be able to just slowly pull the lens off without more prying. You'll notice that the glue stays in a big gooey sheet. Razor knife. Cut that sheet making sure that the glue retracts to the outside and doesn't get on the reflectors. Because you won't be able to get it off. Ever.

Here is the end result.

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Now, since we are not painting the turn signal reflectors, I wanted to remove the main reflector for painting. This is done by taking out the aiming screw. Unscrew it until the top is loose and then gently pull the bottom to pop it out.

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At this point, I'd take the lens and the body along with all the screws and rubbers in a ziplock bag and store them somewhere safe. Like an unused guest room.

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Now. You have the main reflector. The inside of this is what's going to get painted. But we need to remove that pesky hood that sits over the old bulb.

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There is a screw on the back that is holding the hood in there. Remove the screw with a Phillips and then take the flathead and bend the tabs out. The entire hood is metal. So it will bend like crazy. But it's trash, so no worries.

Pull and remove.
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End of part one.

Prep and painting in the next part.
 
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Prime

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Reserved Part 2: Paint

People are picky about rattle can paints. I will tell you what I use. Since the reflectors are not going to be touched by anything inside the headlight, I'm not really worried about abrasion resistance. But. I am worried about heat.

Because of that I will be doing several layers of prep and paint including primer. As well as baking the reflectors once the final coat is applied. I will also be painting the the HID shrouds to match the truck and painting the internal cutoff blade inside the projector black. (more on that toward the bottom of this section)

Tools:
Sandpaper/Pads (120, 200 grits)
Rustoleum Professional Primer
Rustoleum High-Temp Flat Black
Oven
Lots of patience

I found that sanding pads work really well on this application. They get into the crevices very nicely.

So. Sand with 120 grit to take the shine off the reflector and then w/ 200 grit to really smooth it out.

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Both sanded. And wiped down with a lint free cloth and some mineral spirits to get all the dust.

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I actually started with some 60 grit. And it was just too heavy. I'll have to go back and finish sand that reflector more once the paint dries and shoot it again.

I sprayed a light coat of primer to get a uniform starting finish and then some Rustoleum High Heat BBQ Black (as it states on the can)

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It looks like a glossy finish now, but as I'm sitting here watching paint dry, it's really dropping to a dull flat. Which is what I was going for.

One of the reflectors is finished. The one with the 60 grit scratches needs another coat

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Once I have these done we'll move on to the headlight bezels. While they are brand new.....they're not quite black. And that needs to be fixed.

Same process on the bezels. Sand with 120, prime, sand with 200, paint. Using Rustoleum PRO flat black. First coat is laid down. I'll probably do 3 coats.

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The difference between the stock finish and one coat of flat black. Much bettah!

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Started painting the shrouds.

They come this chrome color. That looks kind of textured. The paperwork claims that you don't have to sand them to paint them. Yeah. Right.

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So, let the sanding begin!

One down.
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These things are actually clear plastic. So with the fake silver coating that they come with, a little bit of light would bleed through.

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Which might look cool. But no. No chrome.

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First coat down. No sanding my ass. Any area that didn't get roughed up has no paint sticking to it. This is going to take a while.

One projector is finished. The second just received its final coat. Once that dries, I have to shoot another coat on the reflectors. And then we can begin the fun part.
 
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Prime

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Part 3: HID Installation
--------------------------

The hid kit comes with two projectors, bulbs, a relay harness (if ordered), ballasts, and resealing glue (again, if you ordered it)

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I opted for the more expensive Denso ballasts. They are essentially OEM Toyota ballasts. Supposedly better quality.

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Modifications had to be made to the reflector housing to open up the hole for the projector stem.

Using a dremel with a spiral cutoff blade. I had to remove the outer ring and open the hole up to just over a half an inch.

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The important thing is that the surface needs to be pretty damn flat so that the projector can sit straight and flat in the hole.

So, thats both reflectors cut out and ready. Although, because I didn't know about this prior to painting, I'll have to clean and shoot these with another coat.

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More to come on installing the projectors and the internal wiring.

OK. So. The projector comes with this HUGE gasket that is supposed to go at the base of the stem and back up to the projector bowl.

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Unfortunately, the design of the reflector makes this impossible to use without further alterations. The shape is so deeply concave that you can't get enough threads through the reflector to attach the retaining nut. And while I realize that the purpose is to help seal it up, we'll address that in other ways.

As part of the installation, the projector has two wires that attach to a solenoid. That solenoid lowers the cutoff blade when power is detected. Which in turn provides high beam results. This is required because unlike conventional halogen bulbs, real xenon HID bulbs only have one filament. So without this change in cutoff you would have no high beam. That's what makes these "bi-xenon" projectors.

These wires need to be fed through the hole that was left by removing the chrome cap that was unscrewed during the disassembly phase.

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As a result of the hole size needed to insert the projector, you have to use the metal retaining plate provided with the projector so that the pressure of the retaining nut can be transferred to the back of the reflector.

Alignment here is crucial. The projector needs to be perfectly level in the reflector housing. Looking at the way the stock headlight sits in the front of the truck, you should be able to get it lined up. Make sure that you place the solenoid and cutoff blade at the BOTTOM of the projector. Because of the shape of the lens, the light output is opposite of the cutoff. In other words, light coming out the top of the bowl gets aimed down toward the road. So when the cutoff blade is dropped, it increases the upward light output.

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Once you are happy with the alignment, go ahead and tighten the retaining nut. Eventually, I will add some two part epoxy to this nut and around the base of the stem to lock the nut in place and seal up the back of the reflector. (see, told you we'd get to that) but I will wait until the projectors are on the truck to make 100% sure they are level.

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With the retaining nut tight, the plug needs to be installed on the end of those wires.

Start by shoving the wires through the supplied red rubber grommets.

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Then insert the wires into the supplied plug. You should feel them click into place. Once seated, shove the rubber pieces in the back of the plug to seal them up. I will probably put some OSI Quad in there as well to further insulate them from the elements.

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That's it. Projector mounted.

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Next comes the shroud. I haven't finalized them yet, so I threw one over the lens to get an idea of what they will look like.

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More on those as well as better details of the kit on the next edit.

------------------------------------------

Update.

So I didn't like the way the shrouds looked on the projectors. So I ordered some different ones.

These are the Orbit shrouds available from TRS.

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With some minor dremel work I had to cut a few things. Make the overall shroud shorter. Plus add a little angle at the top to get it in. I love the way these look on the projectors.

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I'll have some final assembly shots once the paint is dry.

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For assembly of the finalized shroud onto the projector, it is a snug fit, but I want to make SURE that the shroud never comes loose. Because of that, a little bit of 2 part epoxy around the rim and gently slide it into place.

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While I was at it with the glue I determined that the projector was perfectly aligned in the reflector by judging that the reflector lines are parallel to the road when the headlights are mounted.

So I went ahead and glued the lock nut on the back as well as used the epoxy to fill in any air holes around the stem of the projector.

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Being very careful not to get any on the remaining threads or above the lock nut. Because you need those threads to lock the bulb in.

With the shroud epoxied into place, this reflector is now finished.

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On the next one I'll apply the epoxy to the ring around the projector instead of the shroud. I think the install will come out a little cleaner.

As soon as that is dry (full strength in 24 hours) I'll reassemble the headlight.
 
Last edited:

Prime

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Final Headlight Assembly and Testing

I'm going to cover the headlight reassembly here.

Tools:

3/16 Drill Bit
OSI Quad
Heat Gun
Gloves
Patience
Hand Strength

I was planning on having these in the HID assembly section, but the forum won't let me add more pictures. And there SO MUCH MOAR!

So lets put together a headlight.

First drop the bulb into the back of the projector. There is an alignment tab that holds the bulb in place.

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After that, the supplied metal split ring goes over the back of the bulb. Keeping the open end at the alignment tab.

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Next is the supplied rubber grommet that has the beveled edge. The beveled edge goes toward the split ring so that the flat side of the grommet is toward you.

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Next is the lock nut that holds the bulb in place. Slip it over the bulb and tighten.

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Now for a quick bench test using one ballast and the supplied testing lead connected directly to the battery.

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SUCCESS!!

A quick dab of OSI Quad on the back of the reflector where the high beam lead comes though.

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Now to get the reflector mounted back in the headlight housing. The bottom clips in and tighten the vertical alignment bolt until it is about half way. Final alignment will be done once they are mounted on the truck.

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Because of where I brought out the high beam wiring, I needed to run a bead of OSI Quad around the back of the reflector to retain the water tight seal. I'll do the other one differently. But I already had the plug on this wire, so this is how it is.

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For the other light, I drilled a hole in the back of the headlight housing to pass out the high beam wires. Then that was sealed with more OSI Quad. This is a MUCH better solution. It allows the factory rubber seal to do its job on the back of the housing.

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For resealing the lights, I had some trouble with the first one. There was still the glue in the channel from pulling the lights apart. Now the idea behind the included resealing glue would probably work great if you took the time to get ALL OF THE EXISTING GLUE off of the lens and out of the channel. Ain't nobody got time for that.

I laid down the thinnest bead of the included stuff that I could through the back of the headlight.

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Using a heat gun to slowly heat the glue up, I was able to push the lens back on. But it was HARD work.

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I think there was just too much material in the groove. But there was no going back, so I had to make it work.

For the other light, I ues a VERY thin bead of OSI quad in the groove around the light and just heated and pushed the light back together. It was MUCH easier and I'm confident of the seal.

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I have a few surprises left before I get these installed. More on that in the next update.

-----------------------------
Final update before installation

I wanted to make sure that these lenses never fogged. So I opted for some Lamin-X lens covers. With a little twist.

To make a more "blacked out" look. I wanted to tint marker and turn signal. Lamin-X has a precut kit for the 1.5. However, the turn signal and marker light covers didn't fit very well. Because of the headlight bezel there was a gap all the way around the tinted lens. And it just looked like crap.

SO! I ordered two 4x8" sheets and custom cut them.

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Applied to the light

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Repeat for the other side.

And we have COMPLETED HEADLIGHTS!

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On to the final segment. Let get these bad boys installed.
 
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Prime

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Final Section: Truck Dissasembly, headlight installation, aiming, and final pictures

Tools:

LONG skinny flat head screw driver
10mm socket wrench
8mm ratcheting wrench
phillips head screwdriver
a nice flat level surface with a wall for aiming

Oh...and MORE OSI Quad

First you need to remove the grill.

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Take your long flat head screw driver and you'll find 9 plastic clips. Stick the screw driver in and quarter turn each clip one at a time until the squares are lined up. Pull each section until it pops off.

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Be sure to reinsert these clips into the gill so they don't they get lost. Installation is simply push back in.

With the grill off, remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the headlight. One is on the top of the fender, the other is in the upper inside corner of each light.

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Once those bolts are out, the lower outside corner pulls straight out and if you tilt the headlight down toward the ground, the inside lower corner will pop loose.

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You have to remove the wiring that is stuck on the back of each light. This is the parking light and turn signal wiring. It has to be relocated to the new lights.

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Next we'll work on getting the wiring. The first bit to mount is the relay box. This is what actually fires the ballasts. It takes hot power from the battery, a pair of grounds, plugs for the ballasts, hi-beam solenoids, and a plug that goes into your stock headlight harness. To get to the best mounting surfaces, I had to remove the battery completely and pull the air box.

I mounted the relay box up high behind the battery location.

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Single self tapping screw and a zip tie to hold the other end. Also screwed in.

With that mounted, you'll have to find the blue plug on the relay harness and reverse the brown and blue wires. This is thanks to Nissan loving to wire things backwards. If you don't reverse these wires, the high beam and low beam will be reversed.

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Now its time to mount the ballasts. I chose to mount the passenger side one right under the relay box. The drivers side is mounted just in front of where the airbox goes into the fender. The other thing you have to contend with is that these Denso ballasts are not water tight. Being that the X goes places a normal car doesn't, that needs to be addressed. I ran a bead of OSI quad around the border of the ballast and flattened it out. Also, some needs to be put over the input plug from the relay harness where it plugs into the ballast as this is not a water tight connection.

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http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q688/janderfu/2013-12-20%2011.44.41_zpsngobbleruor.jpg

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Mounting is done with self tapping screws and a little nylon spacer 3/8" diameter 3/4" long.

WIth the ballast input plugs connected to the relay harness, you need to do something to the drivers side headlight plug. Because the relay harness only takes one of the factory headlight plugs, I chose to fill the other plug with some quad.

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At this point, go ahead and connect your grounds, put the battery back in, and hook up your hot power.

I chose to plug in my LED marker and turn signal lights to check for functionality before attaching the wiring to the new headlights. This way I can verify that I have the polarity right before I'm finished so I don't have to take anything apart again.

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With the wiring back on the new headlights, its time to connect everything and bolt them up! Connect the D2S headlight connector to the bulb, connect the high beam plug to the relay harness, and reconnect the factory turn signal/marker light harness.

Put your 10mm bolts back in and VOILA!

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I had to wait for it to get dark to align them.

Using either an 8mm ratcheting wrench or a phillips head screw driver, align the headlights as described on the TRS website. Here:
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pdf/trs_tech/Projector_Headlight_Aiming.pdf

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THATS IT! IT'S DONE!

I'm going to be painting the grill this weekend, then I'll get it back on.
 
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yellowx16

Need Bigger Tires
Founding Member
Location
Rochester, NY
nice, excited to see the final result! we have needed a good DIY for this. not sure if you want to add this or whatever but you can also use a heat gun to soften the glue up. I didn't want the plastic in my parents oven; the heat gun worked well.
 

Prime

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I've done a lot of reading on this. Yes. You can use a heat gun. However, I think it'd be MUCH easier to mess up the lenses and housings with a heat gun. Instead of just heating the whole light evenly and going to work.

I will do the painting tomorrow. HID kit wont be here till Monday. So that is a little bit out yet.
 

KChurch86

Banned
Founding Member
Sub'd. I'm very curious about how this will turn out! I'm not planning on ever running HID's, but I have thought about spraying some paint in there.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
 

Prime

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Tragedy hath befallen.

Upon taking apart the other light.....the glue got a little crazy. And then this happened.

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I tried heating it back up and wiping it off. But that just made it worse. I'm going to head to the store and get some goof off and see if that'll do it.
 

Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
They sell a trim adhesive remover that might work if the goof off wont do it. I used it on one of my old cars when I painted the headlights and the glue got everywhere. It worked well and didnt fog the lenses up, but I would test it on something first, possibly the old lights if your going to toss them. I bought mine at walmart, it is back with the bondo and headlights and such. its an aerosol can, black and red I think. brake parts cleaner is a last resort, but it is harsh on the plastics. You will end up having to polish the lenses if you resort to it.
 

yellowx16

Need Bigger Tires
Founding Member
Location
Rochester, NY
meguiars plastix polish works really well too. when I did my retrofit I used that to polish the lense and it took a lot of scratches and blemishes off. it may also work for that glue too. good luck!
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
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Goof off FTW. Took all the glue off and didn't affect the lens at all. Awesome stuff.

Started the painting process. Pics above.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Sub'd. I'm very curious about how this will turn out! I'm not planning on ever running HID's, but I have thought about spraying some paint in there.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

Curious. What are you thinking about painting if you're not doing HIDs?
 

KChurch86

Banned
Founding Member
Curious. What are you thinking about painting if you're not doing HIDs?

Just the edges of the reflector, towards the front of the headlight, away from all the facets near the bulb. Hard to explain I guess. I haven't really looked into it that much, but a VW buddy of mine asked if anybody in the Xterra world had done the "Joey Mod" as it's called in the VW world.

Here's a pic I ganked from a VWVortex members' Photobucket that showed up in a Google Image search:

JoeyModddddded004smaller.jpg
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
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I don't know if you can do that too much with these. Maybe just the bottom round lip below the reflector. The trim on the outside really hides all the interior parts.
 

Prime

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Jay, I'll pay you a set to do this for me. I don't have the time or the patience to do this.

If you don't mind waiting, I don't have a problem doing it. This set is going to take me a few weeks to get wrapped up. Why don't you wait and see how this comes out. Heh.
 

Prime

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Okay, numbers.

New headlights cost me $165 for the pair. HID kit $360. LED Bulbs, $75. Paint and sanding supplies, $25. Plus I plan on doing headlight protective film for the outside of the lenses so they never fog and I can tint the parking & turn signal lights. I haven't priced that out yet.

So I'll have at least $625 in parts. If I was a legit shop doing it, given parts markup and labor costs I'd be asking about $1000/pair delivered to your door. Not taking into account any custom requests. Things like halos in the projectors, wacky mult-stage paint schemes, etc.

Take that for what it's worth and make me an offer. I can't promise it'll be quick, but I am a sticker for details and making sure it's done right.
 

Roadwarrior

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
In all reality, I would pay that if I were to up grade my lights. I think you could save the hassle of custom paint jobs by having said customers send you the paint that they want used for the product. Customer pays shipping and for paint, within your set limitations (i.e. You can only use Rustoleum Paint).
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
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In fact I could save a lot of time and labor cost if someone wanted everything to stay chrome and be good with the factory finish on the headlight bezels. Then it would be bake, assemble, ship.
 

Prime

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The problem w/ the nightshade is its still a paint. The surface of the reflector is so smooth that I'm not sure it would stick w/o some sanding. Which would obviously ruin the look.

Better bet would be the tinted protective films over the lenses.
 

yellowx16

Need Bigger Tires
Founding Member
Location
Rochester, NY
not sure if you would be interested in this prime, but if you used a different hid kit, DDM tuning for example is what I used in my retrofit, you could offer a more cost effective option for people. I personally couldn't justify spending 750 for lights, but I'm sure others can. if you used a different hid kit you could cut the parts cost down to 325. DDM hid kits also have a lifetime warranty. just another option to think about!
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
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I'm not sure what it would look like either with ought building a pair. It'll still look like lots of shiny. With added HID goodness.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
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not sure if you would be interested in this prime, but if you used a different hid kit, DDM tuning for example is what I used in my retrofit, you could offer a more cost effective option for people. I personally couldn't justify spending 750 for lights, but I'm sure others can. if you used a different hid kit you could cut the parts cost down to 325. DDM hid kits also have a lifetime warranty. just another option to think about!

Do they even offer a projector kit? I didn't see one on the website.
 

yellowx16

Need Bigger Tires
Founding Member
Location
Rochester, NY
no, what I did was bought the d2s projector from TRS along with the butyl glue, shrouds, and relay harness. then ordered a d2s 35w 5000K hid kit from ddm tuning. it was all plug and play with the harness from TRS as well.
 

Prime

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Admin
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I'm curious what the cost would be for the bulbs and balasts vs the TRS kit. I'll run some numbers on that tomorrow and see what's up
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
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Moar tragedy.

The HID kit arrived today. The stem on the projectors is WAY to big for the hole in the back of the reflector. That hole needs to be opened up to an inch and a half. My step drill only goes up to 1-3/8".

DELAY!

Of course that also means I have to repaint the reflectors again. I wish I knew this before I painted them. But oh well.

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