1. With the change in forum software we are no longer supporting Tapatalk. Please check us out on your mobile browser, we think you'll like how the site works.
    Dismiss Notice

How-To: OEM Locker Bypass and install custom OTRATTW Switch

Prime Feb 6, 2017

  1. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin

    Messages:
    28,627
    Location:
    Portsmouth, VA
    I'm sure a lot of people are familiar with the first half of this mod. Bypassing the locker relay. For those that are not familiar, the purpose of bypassing the relay is so the locker can be engaged in any drive mode at any speed. That being said, if you drive faster than about 10mph on pavement and turn the locker on, bad things could happen.

    I've taken it a step further than just the bypass by also replacing the OE locker switch with a custom Carling switch from OTRATTW. I'll cover the whole thing step by step. This is for O/R and Pro4x equipped trucks only. If you don't have the factory locker, this writeup will do you no good. Also, this was done on my 07. Wiring will be the same for all other years but the wire colors may not. So just be aware you should pay more attention to the pinout of the plugs than the color of the wires.

    Tools / materials required:
    Phillips Screwdriver
    10mm socket and long extension
    Wire cutters / strippers / crimpers
    crimp connectors
    3 red tap splices
    Female spade connectors (preferably insulated)

    Time required: About 45 minutes

    First off, here's the switch:
    [​IMG]

    Standard single pole single throw switch. Lower LED (text area) independent for connection with the dash illumination, upper LED dependent to be on when the switch is activated.

    Here is a link to the exact switch I'm using. These are available in a variety of different color combinations from OTR. If you don't see something on the website you want, call and ask. They can build damn near anything.

    There's four sections of the wiring schematic from the factory service manual that we will be referencing. For anyone that has downloaded the manual from Niccoclub, these diagrams are on pages RFD-83 and RFD-84.

    The first is the pinout of the locker control module:
    [​IMG]

    The 2nd and 3rd are what the wires actually do on the module:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And the final one is the pinout for the switch that's in the dash:
    [​IMG]

    We'll start by removing the lower trim under the steering wheel. Pull the screw next to the center console and under the trim closest to the door. The panel should just pop off. Remove the plugs for the mirror controls (and any other switches you may have there) and set that panel aside. Under the panel if you look just to the left of the steering column, you'll see two 10mm/phillips bolts holding the module in.
    [​IMG]

    I found it easier to get the wiring harness out by unbolting the module.

    Once you've got it unplugged, set it aside and cut the tape off the wires so you can see what you're working with.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    There's 8 wires we're concerned with here.

    Pin 1 - Green/White - Keyed Power
    Pin 3 - Black - Ground
    Pin 9 - Yellow - Power from locker switch ON
    Pin 11 - Gray - Low side locker solenoid
    Pin 12 - Blue - High side locker solenoid
    Pin 20 - Brown - Power to Diff Lock Position switch (on axle)
    Pin 21 - Sky Blue - Power from Diff Lock light in dash
    Pin 22 - Green - Power from locker switch OFF

    Reference this, to figure out what pins are what:
    [​IMG]

    All other wires remain unaltered.

    Pins 9, 11, 12, 20, & 21 can be cut off flush with the connector. Do NOT cut pin 1, or 3. And cut pin 22 about 2-3" up from the connector.

    First thing we're going to do is attach pin 11 to pin 3. So using a tap splice crimp the vehicle end of the gray wire onto the black ground wire. This gives the locker solenoid a constant ground.
    [​IMG]

    Next we're going to attach the vehicle side of 9 & 12 together. This passes the 12v from the dash switch directly to the locker solenoid:
    [​IMG]

    And then 20 & 21 together. This takes the power from the dash light and makes it wait for a ground from the sensor switch in the axle. When the locker is successfully engaged, ground will be applied to the circuit making the dash light come on:
    [​IMG]

    Then we take the connector side of 22 that you left long and use a tap splice to connect it to pin 1 for keyed power. This makes sure that the relay has power whenever the vehicle is on.
    [​IMG]
    ______________________________________
    NOTE: IF YOU ARE NOT REPLACING THE SWITCH WITH A CARLING SWITCH AND ARE JUST LEAVING THE OE LOCKER SWITCH IN PLAY STOP HERE. Going further alters the wires so that the factory switch will not work. You can plug the module back in, reassemble the dash and test.

    For those interested in replacing the switch, read on.
    ______________________________________
    From there I used the 3rd tap splice to attach the vehicle side of pin 22 to the black wire also. So the green wire that goes to the switch is now a ground:
    [​IMG]



    That's it. You can now plug your locker relay back in and re mount it under the dash.

    Lets move to the center stack.

    You can reach in behind the center stack and push the stock locker switch out and disconnect it. And then promptly throw it in the garbage.
    [​IMG]

    Cut all the wires off flush with the connector.
    [​IMG]

    Strip all the wires back and crimp insulated female spades to all 5 wires.
    [​IMG]

    That wiring layout is as follows:

    Green - Upper LED ground
    Yellow - Power to locker relay
    Green/White - Keyed Power
    Brown - Illumination Ground
    Red - Illumination Hot

    Using the OTR wiring schematic, connect the Red and Brown to pins 6 and 7 respectively on the switch. The green wire goes to Pin 8, the yellow to pin 3, and the green/white to pin 2. As pictured here.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You're done. Pop the switch back into the dash, re-assemble the trim under the steering wheel, and test it out.

    [​IMG]

    You'll notice that the indicator on the switch tells you when the switch is on and power is being applied to the locker, but the dash light tells you when the locker is actually engaged. I like it this way as it's kind of a two step verification on functionality.

    Here's a few night shots you can really see the illumination. First is just with the dash illumination. And yes, it dims with everything else.

    [​IMG]

    Next is what it looks like when the switch is on.

    [​IMG]

    Enjoy your anytime locker!
     
  2. TheFauxFox

    TheFauxFox Titan Swapped / SAS'd Founding Member

    Messages:
    5,869
    Location:
    Tuscaloosa, AL
    I need to do the second part of this mod so bad.

    This mod has gotten me out of a tight spot, too. When my 4WD went out the first time, my locker saved me from getting winched into several trees.
     
  3. jg8992

    jg8992 Hi, my name is Brandon Supporting Member

    Messages:
    8,238
    Location:
    Spotsylvania, VA
    That white LED goodness. Noice write-up

    Sent from your mom's house
     
  4. Fromfrontier2Xterra

    Fromfrontier2Xterra Titan Swapped / SAS'd Super Moderator

    Messages:
    22,876
    Location:
    Altoona, PA
    Nice work Jay.
     
  5. JeffPro4x

    JeffPro4x Titan Swapped / SAS'd Moderator Supporting Member

    Messages:
    6,719
    Location:
    Glenside, PA
    Sub'd. I need to do this.

    sent from a crawlspace...
     
  6. rolling rock

    rolling rock First Fill-Up (of many)

    Messages:
    283
    Location:
    PA
    Great mod PRIME.
     
  7. GPD605X

    GPD605X Lockers Installed Founding Member

    Messages:
    1,565
    Location:
    Gulfport, MS
    Is this in English? lol This makes my head hurt lol. I'm definitely over my head in the electrical dept
     
  8. Manchi

    Manchi Test Drive

    Messages:
    21
    Location:
    Poland
    How does e-locker work? Is it a brake blockade? Is the rear differential locked mechanically?

    Wysłane z mojego SM-N910C przy użyciu Tapatalka
     
  9. caseycamby

    caseycamby Suspension Lift

    Messages:
    4,290
    Location:
    Marion, NC
    Well done, sir.
     
  10. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin

    Messages:
    28,627
    Location:
    Portsmouth, VA
    Here's a quick video.

    https://youtu.be/-VPPGsYq6TE
     
  11. IssacHunter

    IssacHunter Test Drive

    Messages:
    2
    I seem to be a little late to the party. Is it possible to fix the images on this?
     
  12. maillet282

    maillet282 Lockers Installed Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,389
    Location:
    Ontario Canada
    They work for me
     
  13. IssacHunter

    IssacHunter Test Drive

    Messages:
    2
    Odd on both Opera and Firefox I only see the last pic where it's lit up. Guess I'll try on another computer when I get the chance and see. Turned off my Adblocker and Noscript as well to see if that was it but no dice.
     
  14. Prime

    Prime Some Kind of In Charge? Admin

    Messages:
    28,627
    Location:
    Portsmouth, VA
    They're hosted by photo bucket. I'll move them and relink them tonight.
     
  15. Nissan3161

    Nissan3161 Test Drive

    Messages:
    49
    Location:
    Ohio
    Just a helpful hint idk if it matters but I would disconnect the battery or be very careful doing this I did this to my 09 frontier and accidentally touched two wires together and blew the diff lock controller which caused a can code and the abs and slip lights to be on. I know the steering angle sensor and g sensor have to be reset after the battery is disconnected so that is something to consider. Just don't want anybody else to have to pay $120 for a used controller ($350 for a new one) like I did lol
     

Share This Page