Ok so i recently discovered the difficulty in removing factory lower control arm mount bolts and decided there has to be an easier way. The fact isâ€¦if they are seizedâ€¦.there is no â€œeasyâ€ way to remove them. In an attempt to alleviate the difficulty and guesswork associated in installing adjustable camber bolts Iâ€™ve written something up. This is my first official how-to so any constructive criticism is appreciated. DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibility for any damage you do to your truck. I made this guide based on my own personal observations and experiences. Should you decide to use it, that is your own prerogative. Now, that being saidâ€¦.there is nothing in this how-to that will royally eff up your truckâ€¦.at least to my knowledgeâ€¦.my truck drives perfectlyâ€¦ Ok, so step 1 GET THE MATERIAL!: As with any job you need materials. Some of the things you will possibly need are listed below. Again what you need may differ depending on the difficulty of bolt removal and what you have at your disposal: If the bolts are not seized: -Jack -at least 2 jack standsâ€¦.more are helpfulâ€¦. -ball peen hammer -3 or 4 pound drilling hammer (looks like a mini sledgehammer) -spare grade 8 bolts (to hammer out lca mount bolts with) -anti-seize (I got mine at napa) -PRG/NISSAN adjustable camber bolts. (PRG is cheaper I think.) -wood or something to support some weight withâ€¦bottle jacks workâ€¦. -big c-clamp -lug wrench -needle nose pliers -metric socket set (impact sockets are nice and can be had at harbor freight for 25 bucks) -adjustable wrench and/or metric wrenches -your favorite beer -hydraulic presses and power packs are nice if you haven themâ€¦but you have to be careful not to bend the LCA mounts on your truckâ€¦..i canâ€™t imagine trying to weld one of those back on the Xâ€¦. -air hammer is nice! -PB BLASTER!!!! *Additional material if the bolts are seized and you do want to torch them out: -torch -more beer -new LCA's (you can get them from brian at cherry hill nissan) *Additional material if the bolts are seized and you do not want to or you do not have the resources to torch them out (my case): -Angle Grinder with plenty of extra cutting wheelsâ€¦(I do not recommend the thin dewalt discs I ate through it in about 1 minute) -Sawzall with plenty of 8inch blades (they go dull quickly with grade 8 steel bolts) -a metric Sh*t ton of patience -another 6 pack of beer -new LCA's (you can get them from brian at cherry hill nissan) Ok step 2, set the B*tch up! Numero UNO!, PB Blast the bolts often over a period of a couple of days. It doesnâ€™t hurt to hit the other bolts in the front suspension eitherâ€¦in case you need to dittely fart around with them as well (replace LCA). Next, Jack the truck up by your favorite jack pointâ€¦.i jack it up by my h frame rails in the frontâ€¦.whatever its not going anywhereâ€¦. Some people say you do not have to take the wheels off to get the cam bolts inâ€¦and while this is very trueâ€¦.it doesnâ€™t very long to take the wheels off and it makes it a lot easier in the long runâ€¦especially if you find you have to start cutting the LCAâ€™s out of your truck... Step 3, pick a sideâ€¦any side! Pick a sideâ€¦.I started with the side that has the least ambient light at night is case my work went into the wee hours of the morningâ€¦.that way I could work at night without needing a billion drop lightsâ€¦.but depending on your situationâ€¦..you may not have this concernâ€¦.especially if you have a nice garage to work in or you are a leet proâ€¦.unfortunatelyâ€¦.mine is filled with sh*t and I am no mechanic either. First remove the sway back endlinks from the LCA bracket. This will require a 17mm socket/socket wrench and another wrench to hold the nut on the inner side of the LCA swaybar mount in place (I use 3/4inch, its prob not right but it worksâ€¦so whatever). Because the sway bars are off both sides and since you will have your truck on jack stands, you can use the jack to take the pressure off of the lower control arm are you are working onâ€¦put it right under the lca mount under â€œattackâ€ and take a c-clamp and clamp the lca inwards towards the center of the truck as shown below. There is no exact science to thisâ€¦but you ultimate goal is to relieve all of the pressure on the lca. You may also find that removing the spindle from the upper control arm will help you relieve this pressureâ€¦so if bolt removal doesnâ€™t work for you at firstâ€¦.try this. This will effectively take all of the pressure exerted by the coilover off the LCA. Step 4, itâ€™s clobberin time! Now that youâ€™ve done all the set-up stuffâ€¦.its time to really use those wheaties you ate that morningâ€¦.undo the 19mm nut on the stock lca/chassis mount bolts. You may need a breaker bar and cheater pipe for thisâ€¦.sometimes they get stuck really good! Once you have it freeâ€¦..leave it on the bolt a few turns and break out that fancy drilling hammer (3 or 4lb hammer). Attempt to break the bolt free of the metal sleeve it is in by pounding the nut side of the bolt (with the nut on to allow for a bigger surface area to hitâ€¦see below for pictures: Another option is to take another grade 8 bolt and line it up on the end of the stuck bolt and drive it through. A third option is to use an air hammer to hammer it outâ€¦.If this does not work, and you have a press or power pack of some sortâ€¦feel free to get creative. Just be causeful of the mounts bendingâ€¦if it looks like the mounts are going to break before the bolt comes outâ€¦you are probably going to have to go to plan A or B. If you do get the bolts on the LCA out. Feel free to continue on to step 5. Step 5, your tuck doesnâ€™t hate you! You are at this step because you got d*mn lucky and all of your lca bolts came out. Once you knock a bolt outâ€¦.you must replace it immediately with an adjustable bolt. Just reinstall it the same way the one you took out was orientedâ€¦.the nut facing forward. The trick to this is you must play with the LCA until the eccentric washers are caught in the little raised edges on the mount. This will allow your alignment place to give you a proper alignment. And you also absolutely want to coat the piss out of the reinstalled bolt with anti-sieze before it goes in. Anti-seize is cheapâ€¦so there are no excuses not to throw it inâ€¦it could save you a ton of money and headache in the future. Just donâ€™t get it in your eyes (like I did) its not a good time, I promise, no guy wants their sig other to come home and see them rolling on the ground crying cause they got silicone in their eye. Rather embarrassingâ€¦..but at any rate, see below to understand what the h*ll im talking about. One you have installed the boltsâ€¦.throw the sway-bar back in and the tires back onâ€¦.and drive like hell to the nearest firestone and get a lifetime alignment. BAM! DONE! now go to the bar since you can drive straight now! well unless you drank too much beer installing the bolts ) PLAN A: â€œFlame on!â€ Get out a torchâ€¦I used a butane oneâ€¦..fancy Coleman thingamajig or something to that effect. Apply the flame carefully to the bolt/integrated washer side of the bolt under â€œassaultâ€. Keep it on the bolt till it gets hot. Note, you WILL frig up the bushings when you do thisâ€¦there is no going backâ€¦the rubber will melt and you WILL have to replace your LCA. Carefully try and wiggle the bolt out of its sleeve with a socket wrench. Then proceed to hammer it with your favorite BFH. Rinse and repeat. If this does not work see plan B. Edit: any other advice on this step will be added to the how-to as this did not work too well for me PLAN B: Also known as â€œLCA judgment dayâ€ There is no way an LCA/bolt can survive a full fledged attack from a brigade of industrial power toolsâ€¦Among these, the sawzall and angle grinder are easily the most feared, followed by the BFH. To begin the attack, first undo the upper control arm/ spindle attachment. This requires needle nose pliers and a BFH to remove the pin, and a 22mm socket and some elbow grease to remove the nut. Grab the pin by the wider loop with the needle nose pliersâ€¦then use the hammer on the pliers to knock it through the holeâ€¦.if done correctly it should pull the pin right through the hole (as long as you have straightened out the other side of the pin with the pliers first). Next you need to drop the lca a little bit but keep it supported with a jack. You will find the coil over lower control bolt can now be easily removed. I think this uses a 19mm socket also but donâ€™t quote me on that. Take that sucker out. Nowâ€¦.supporting the LCAâ€¦and taping back any brake lines as to not cut them in halfâ€¦..begin to grind the LCA on the side (or both sides if need be) of the seized bolt. See below.