Multiple codes pulled tonight

[KChurch86]

Alright, so little back story here. My truck's got a bad exhaust leak right now that I haven't been able to fix yet. I have the parts, but haven't put them in. The leak is right behind the y-pipe, the pipe broke clean off after the 2 pipes come together. It's very roughly patched and has been doing ok. I only drive 8 miles to and from work each day, and haven't been driving it anywhere else.

Tonight, I had to go to the parts store to pick up the remaining bits and pieces I need to fix it.

I get about a mile from the parts store, heading home, and all of a sudden the exhaust starts popping and belching. It's done it once or twice in the last couple of days but only under had acceleration. Truck didn't want to go above 30mph.

Little further down the road, trying to limp it home as I didn't have far to go, and the popping is worse, constant. Truck won't go above 20mph. Service engine soon light starts blinking, blinked maybe 9 times then stopped. Couple minutes later starts blinking again, maybe 11 or 12 times, then stopped.

Managed to limp it home, threw my code reader on it and pulled the following (less the P0328, I know about that one):

P0300 - Multiple cylinder misfire
P0301 - Cylinder #1 misfire
P0732 - A/T 2nd gear signal fault

Could the bad exhaust leak be causing this? I'm wondering (hoping, dang near praying) that it's because I did more driving tonight than I do to/from work. I'm thinking that with the engine running hotter due to the longer drive, when the engine leaned out from the higher operating temperature, that coupled with the lowered back pressure from the exhaust leak, it just didn't want to run and started misfiring?

Any truth to my hopes?

Could I have damaged anything tonight?

Is there a chance my timing belt is shot?

What can I do to find out?

 

[Muadeeb]

Could it? possibly but I'm inclined to think 'no'

the p0300 and p0301 are why the CEL started to blink. They're (usually) caused by bad spark plugs, intake leaks, bad fuel injector, or a few other things. I would start by checking the plugs, and their connections. Is the engine running rough when you idle? How's the dizzy look (any wobble to the rotor). You can spray some carb cleaner around the intake gaskets to check for leaks there; the engine will sound different if there's a leak.

p0732 : This is most likely why you couldn't go over 30 - the transmission locked itself into a failsafe mode (i.e. 1st). It's set when the transmission doesn't shift into 2nd like it thinks it should. It could be related to the misfire, but I'm not sure about that. Do a drain and fill on the tranny fluid (Matic-D or Valvoline MaxLife or RP or Amsoil) 3 times, with about a 50 mile drive between drains.

Have you damaged anything? Hard to know yet. The p03xx codes cause the CEL to blink because they do need immediate attention as a misfire can damage engine internals and the cats.
Timing belt? Probably not that. They're good for 100K, so unless you've run long you should be fine (I likely had over 170 on my factory belt)

 

[KChurch86]

I'll check those things out tomorrow. Not driving the truck tomorrow, having a coworker pick me up/drop me off.

The plugs and wires have about 4,500 miles on them. It idles just fine, smooth and normal. I guess it started a little strange once today, but the other 3 or 4 times it started right up like always. Haven't looked at the distributor but will do that tomorrow.

I know the timing belt is supposed to be changed out at 105,000 miles or "x" amount of years...I forget the number. I know I'm over the age, but the truck only has 88,000 miles on it...

Thanks for the suggestions man.

 

[Prime]

Just a thought but O2 sensors can cause crappy misfires and misfires on multiple cylinders. Although when you floor it it should run correctly if the O2s are at fault.

 

[KChurch86]

Just a thought but O2 sensors can cause crappy misfires and misfires on multiple cylinders. Although when you floor it it should run correctly if the O2s are at fault.

Flooring it does nothing, I'm guessing because of the P0732 failsafe thing.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[KChurch86]

Well, I'm saving the work for Saturday, since I'll have more time to spend on it and since that's when I'm fixing the exhaust and license plate light.

BUT, today when I got home from work, I pulled the distributor cap and took a looksee. There was a little bit of rotational play in the rotor, not much though. Maybe 1/32". It was tight otherwise, no wobble or looseness. Very dirty in there, lots of yellow powder and some big flakes of glazing on the contacts. I cleaned the inside of the cap, gently used a razor to scrape away the glazing, and cleaned the contact on the rotor before re-assembling.

Pulled the #1 plug, since I had the P0301 code (#1 misfire) and checked it out. Looked fine, smelled a bit like gas and oil but not bad. It wasn't wet, blistered, or damaged in any way. I didn't have time to pull the other 5 plugs but I will this weekend. I cleared all the codes as well.

The big thing I noticed was that 3 of the 4 clips on my airbox were un-clipped. I have no idea how or why, every single time I'm under the hood I check them. It's part of my "Whenever the hood is open" routine - check the clips. Can't imagine why they would be open like that.


So this weekend I'm going to pull all 6 plugs and inspect them, remove the airbox and intake tube and check for debris, and pick up some carb cleaner to spray around the intake gaskets.

 

[Cameron23]

Have fun with that # 6 plug just to check it out... I had to change the MFer and I still felt like in the end it almost wasn't worth it.


Sent from my super secret fall out bunker

 

[KChurch86]

Have fun with that # 6 plug just to check it out... I had to change the MFer and I still felt like in the end it almost wasn't worth it.


Sent from my super secret fall out bunker

Yeah I'm not looking forward to it. I just did the plugs and wires 4,000 miles ago, I thought I wouldn't have to see #6 for a good long while. Grr...

Still thankful I'm N/A and not S/C though.

 

[Cameron23]

Did you gap properly? Mine came slightly improperly gapped so I had to regap them


Sent from my super secret fall out bunker

 

[KChurch86]

Did you gap properly? Mine came slightly improperly gapped so I had to regap them


Sent from my super secret fall out bunker

I checked them when I installed them, and all were gapped right. I was surprised, I've had to adjust plugs for all but 1 of the last 4 cars I've owned, haha.

 

[KChurch86]

Checked all the plugs, they're all perfect. Wires are all good, everything had a good connection. All ground straps are connected. Battery cables not loose, etc.

Checked the air box, intake tube and throttle body for signs of debris, moisture, damage, etc. and it all looked fine.

With the engine running, there's noticeable noise coming from the bottom end of the distributor...sounds like a rattling. So I pulled the distributor and checked it out, it looks fine. There is absolutely no play, wobble, or shake in the shaft. The gear looks 100%. From what I could see through the hole, the cam gear looks fine too.

I haven't checked/re-set the timing yet, I'm waiting until I fix/replace all the broken pieces of my exhaust before I fire it up again.

Totally forgot to get a can of carb cleaner. I still have to get bolts for my exhaust flanges, so I'll pick up a can then.

 

[KChurch86]

Well, I wasn't able to get the exhaust fixed today. Super-stubborn, broken, useless studs at the flanges held me up for HOURS. I've only got one left to remove, and a good way to do it - just ran out of time and energy.

I started and drove the truck today, and it ran really, really well; so that's a good thing.

Also got bolts for the exhaust, just need to remove that remaining stud, and from there on out it's smooth sailing. Have to get it done by this Friday so the X can haul us around on our yearly camping trip.

 

[NismoFire]

That's a plus. Maybe the dizzy just needed a good cleaning?

 

[KChurch86]

Well, here's something. I double-checked the timing, and with the crank pulley at the line for TDC, the rotor was nowhere near the #1 cylinder contact as it should be. I rotated the engine around until #1 was on the compression stroke, and brought it to where the rotor was pointing at #1 contact and looked at the marks on the crank pulley.

The markings go from +5° to -25°, and it was showing what I would guess would be -35°.

Out of curiosity I pulled the distributor again and re-installed it so that with the crank at TDC the rotor was pointing at the #1 contact. It was exactly one gear tooth off.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that should mean that it jumped timing, correct? Either due to a missing tooth/missing teeth, and/or a bad tensioner?

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Muadeeb]

Sounds like the tensioner wasn't set right. Try spinning the tensioner around its bearing to see if it's still good. I'd probably reset timing and move on.

 

[KChurch86]

Sounds like the tensioner wasn't set right. Try spinning the tensioner around its bearing to see if it's still good. I'd probably reset timing and move on.

None of this has ever been touched, timing belt has not been done. 88,000 miles.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Muadeeb]

Sounds like it was made late on Friday. Call it a fluke, go ahead and do the 100K now and call it a DOH!

 

[KChurch86]

So I'm going to order the belt kit from Courtesy Parts, as well as upper & lower radiator hoses, the 90° hose, and whatever the 4th hose they recommend is.

I may also take the opportunity to swap in a S/C radiator, since the radiator will be out to do the timing belt anyway, and because I've had two different overheating issues in the past. One while towing a dinky little 5'x8' utility trailer, and one while doing some light wheeling.

Any other maintenance I should do while I'm in there?

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Muadeeb]

Drive belts, water pump and thermostat are about it.

You'll need more than 2 gallons of coolant since you're upgrading. Save some dough by getting 1 gal of pure coolant and a gal of distilled water from the grocery store. 50/50 and full strength are usually within a few pennies of each other.

Sent via wild ferrets on crack

 

[KChurch86]

Drive belts, water pump and thermostat are about it.

You'll need more than 2 gallons of coolant since you're upgrading. Save some dough by getting 1 gal of pure coolant and a gal of distilled water from the grocery store. 50/50 and full strength are usually within a few pennies of each other.

Sent via wild ferrets on crack

All included in the kit

And I've still got a full jug of pre-mixed coolant from when I did my flush and fill. At least I'm pretty sure I do.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Muadeeb]

Awesome! You still need 2+ gallons. Use the premix you have to top off and fill the overflow.

Sent via wild ferrets on crack

 

[KChurch86]

Figured I'd post this question here to keep everything with this issue in the same place:

Is it necessary/recommended to use new bolts/studs when replacing the water pump?

 

[Muadeeb]

I probably would replace them, as they're cheap. When you do install them, don't run them into the shoulder (non-threaded portion) and do use a dab of blue thread lock on them.

 

[KChurch86]

Just to keep this thread current, I trailered the truck and all parts to my buddy's garage this past Monday (8-26) and dropped it off. I'll be heading back up his way this Friday and Saturday, that way we'll still Sunday as a buffer day if something doesn't go right.

Happy happy, joy joy. I miss my truck. Haven't driven it since the 7th, it's now the 28th. Went an entire week without even laying eyes on it, and it was about 1/8 mile away, literally behind some trees in a yard across a field in front of my house.

 

[NismoFire]

Just to keep this thread current, I trailered the truck and all parts to my buddy's garage this past Monday (8-26) and dropped it off. I'll be heading back up his way this Friday and Saturday, that way we'll still Sunday as a buffer day if something doesn't go right.

Happy happy, joy joy. I miss my truck. Haven't driven it since the 7th, it's now the 28th. Went an entire week without even laying eyes on it, and it was about 1/8 mile away, literally behind some trees in a yard across a field in front of my house.

I know the feeling, buddy. Been in the Titan again this week..love it but I hate it all at the same time.

 

[KChurch86]

I've been having to depend on everybody for everything, and it makes me feel like dirt. I hate, hate, hate bumming rides from people or having to borrow things from people. I've been riding to/from work with a coworker who goes past my street on his way in, and he offered, so I'm not inconveniencing him; but I still hate it.

I had Allisonn's car for most of the week she was on vacation while I was home with Gus, and had my boss' old truck for a couple days, but Allie's back to work now and I'm done borrowing the shop truck - if I drive that thing any more I'll "owe" him far too many favors and will be paying him back for the next 3 years with dumb little tasks. I appreciate him letting me borrow it, but I know he's only being so generous so he can get free work out of me to pay him back for it.

I almost walked the 8 miles to work in the rain yesterday morning because I woke up a little bit late and almost missed my ride. I almost rode my bike today, knowing I'd have to leave super early so I could fight all the hills and have some time to rest once I got there. So sick of not having a vehicle. I almost tore my chainsaw apart to try to motorize an old bike I've got kicking around the garage, haha.

 

[NismoFire]

I almost tore my chainsaw apart to try to motorize an old bike I've got kicking around the garage, haha.

This needs its own thread. For realz.




But I know the feeling...some random guy pulled up behind me Monday night and helped me push my truck into the median and out of the middle of the intersection. When I turned around to shake his hand, he was back in his car and gone before I could thank him.

 

[KChurch86]

It would be a pretty epic bike...late '70's Columbia 24" road bike, powered by a 55cc two stroke...s*** that might have to happen anyway, haha.

 

[KChurch86]

Made good progress yesterday at my buddy's shop, we got a very late start and he had an alignment to do also, so we really didn't have a ton of time. We ran into one problem where the bolts for his puller weren't long enough to get the crank pulley off. Got lucky and found some wicked long M6 bolts that worked great.

Once we got the lower cover off we discovered that there are no timing marks in the block around the crank gear. None. So we put the cover back on, put the pulley back on, and used the lines on the crank pulley to bring the engine to TDC and check the alignment of the marks. PS cam was right on, DS cam was about a half a gear tooth off, maybe a full tooth. Hard to say. There was an immense amount of slack on the belt, I took a quick video which I'll post once it finishes uploading.

We finished the night by removing the water pump, still have to remove the thermostat and 90* elbow hose, then it's all about reassembly. Knock on wood, I'll be driving the X home tonight.

 

[KChurch86]

Top cover removed:



Shine mark on the top cover from where the belt was walking on the gears:



Video showing slack on the belt:

http://s741.photobucket.com/user/KChurch86/media/BeltSlack_zps1c91d5bd.mp4.html

EDIT: Can't get the video to embed, yes it's a personal problem...just click the link

 

[Muadeeb]

No mark on the crank gear seems to be par for our engines; haven't heard of one yet that had it. Hope this'll get back on the road again.

Sent via wild ferrets on crack

 

[KChurch86]

Got it all buttoned up today, fired right up and ran beautifully, better than ever before!

Took it for a road test, no good. Still won't go above 20mph. Got it back to the shop and my buddy hooked up his professional computer scan tool, went through every single in and out of the engine and transmission, everything was showing good. Pull it into the shop and happened to lean on the fender...sizzling hot to the touch. Popped the hood, both sides the primary cats are glowing cherry red.


Eff.


Truck needs catalytic converters. Not sure what I'm going to do.

 

[Slasa]

Oh man.

 

[Prime]

Get headers? Replacing get the cats will cost about the same. That really sucks. Other option would be to take the cats out and use a steel pipe to break the guts out and then put it back in. Of course you'd need MIL Eliminators

 

[NismoFire]

Jesus, bro...

 

[KChurch86]

Oh man.

Tell me about it.

Get headers? Replacing get the cats will cost about the same. That really sucks. Other option would be to take the cats out and use a steel pipe to break the guts out and then put it back in. Of course you'd need MIL Eliminators

I considered headers. Pretty sure I can get 'em cheaper than a pair of primary cats, luckily the secondaries are the cheaper of the two. Only issue is passing Massachusetts state inspection. I know there's the whole "Everybody knows a guy" thing, but I dunno. I'd just as soon keep it legal, you know?

Jesus, bro...

When it rains...

 

[Prime]

Do you guys have emissions testing?

 

[KChurch86]

Oh yeah we do.

 

[Prime]

That's crappy. If you gut the cats you can look legit and then adjust the timing on the engine when you do your sniffer test. Which should allow it to get past the test.

 

[KChurch86]

That sounds like work. I priced all 4 cats on RockAuto last night and wasn't too excited. Waiting to talk to my buddy and see what kind of price he can get them at. I'm also going to check the local parts stores.

Either way I'm building a list of things to try and sell ASAP so I can have a shot at affording this. Just the timing belt drained me to the point of "that has got to be the last big fix for a long time".

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2