Big E 515
Test Drive
- Location
- Chelmsford, MA
All of this came out to install the new intake. haha
Removed the Airaid inatke and installed a Volant
- Thread starter Big E 515
- Start date
All of this came out to install the new intake. haha
idratherbe
Skid Plates
- Location
- North Shore, MA
Nice to see another supercharger! They seem to be rare around here. You'll love the Volant, I do.
Big E 515
Test Drive
- Location
- Chelmsford, MA
I need to relocate my knock sensor. asap!
- Location
- Probably in class..
Mirage just did the KS bypass. I need Muadeeb to explain it, but you can bypass that whole stupid system because your truck is super charged
For a SC engine, I'd move before bypassing. Since the knock code will disable the supercharger, if there is an actual problem, I'd like the protection. Now, as to where to place it...
Most people place it on top of the intake, or off to the side of it. I'm not convinced that is the best place to move it to maintain protection, but it is the easiest. I'm heading out on a road trip, or is look for better options...
As for bypassing it, and the logic behind it. The knock sensor is a piezo device, that changes its resistance based on vibrations. A normal engine shows a resistance of about 560K Ohms. Outside the nominal operating window, the ECU thinks there's a problem, sets a code, retards timing, disables the SC, and may or may not set the CEL. Replacing the sensor with a resistor tells the computer that everything is ok all the time, even if there may be a knock.
There's only micro amps running through the sensor, so any power (watt) rating would work. As for the resistance, 560k is the goal, but there is a window (I don't know it off top of head, but its in the FSM). Any resistor you pick will have a tolerance associated with it, usually 2, 5, or 10%. You can assume the actual value is toward the edge of that tolerance, or they'd sell it as a tighter tolerance for a few more pennies. If you can't find a 560k, you can place them in series to add up to the goal.
Sent via wild ferrets on crack
Most people place it on top of the intake, or off to the side of it. I'm not convinced that is the best place to move it to maintain protection, but it is the easiest. I'm heading out on a road trip, or is look for better options...
As for bypassing it, and the logic behind it. The knock sensor is a piezo device, that changes its resistance based on vibrations. A normal engine shows a resistance of about 560K Ohms. Outside the nominal operating window, the ECU thinks there's a problem, sets a code, retards timing, disables the SC, and may or may not set the CEL. Replacing the sensor with a resistor tells the computer that everything is ok all the time, even if there may be a knock.
There's only micro amps running through the sensor, so any power (watt) rating would work. As for the resistance, 560k is the goal, but there is a window (I don't know it off top of head, but its in the FSM). Any resistor you pick will have a tolerance associated with it, usually 2, 5, or 10%. You can assume the actual value is toward the edge of that tolerance, or they'd sell it as a tighter tolerance for a few more pennies. If you can't find a 560k, you can place them in series to add up to the goal.
Sent via wild ferrets on crack
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- Location
- Probably in class..
The resistor part is what I was talking about.. Not my forte, thus why I called upon master Deeb