sas questions

[AllenFamily2012]

So I know I don't want to waste money on fixing its. But only have 2000 wish to spend so leaf springs and d44.? Any other axles to look for. Around here you need ,,35's minimum. Now even 38 are getting small...

 

[TJTJ]

So I know I don't want to waste money on fixing its. But only have 2000 wish to spend so leaf springs and d44.? Any other axles to look for. Around here you need ,,35's minimum. Now even 38 are getting small...

It might help to say what kind of X you have (Year, etc) and if you've already done anything or if this is starting on a stock rig, etc.



Off hand, D44 are weaker axles for the rears at least, especially weaker than the 2000 - 2004 V6's rears....so that would be a downgrade not an upgrade.

A D44 upfront would be ~ break even for the same years and an upgrade if being done on most 20005+ X's.

Depending on your wheeling style, you'd need to be gentle with 38's and D44's...D60 or at least Ford 9", etc, would be a bit better typically.


Given your budget, regearing nissan axles would be expensive....as would adding a lower t-case gear set, etc....so larger tires = over drive in all gears.

 

[AllenFamily2012]

It's a 2000 v6 auto. Want to spring over in back. And keep stock axle there. Will have other money for that. So that budget would be for front axle.

 

[drbandkgb]

You can look at Isuzu rodeo axles it's a d44 in the rear and you will get disc brakes.. More options with lockers too..
But like TJ said it's a little weaker axle vs the hb233

Regrading the hb243 is min 500

Finding the front would be the first thing I'd look for

 

[granitex]

a dana 44 with chevy 8 lug outers, and cromo axles will be more than up to the task. with whatever situation you find yourself.

 

[AllenFamily2012]

Gonna stay 6 lug. 44 or 10 bolt high pinion preferred. Upgrade to chromoly when I can aford to

 

[xterraminator]

If your on a budget stay with the stock rear axle. Its probably a 4.6 and very strong. For the front go with a D44 or High pinion D30. I used a HP D30 with 35's and its been fine. If you want to run 37"+ tires then you need a D44 or bigger. The Dana axle you can get a 4.56 in the front and your good to go. The slight difference of 4.6 in the back and 4.56 in the front is ok, your allowed a 2-4% difference. Just don't go 4Hi on the hwy. So far I am happy with the setup.

 

[AllenFamily2012]

Thanks for the info. Time to start savin money lol

 

[Murdoch]

So I'm just going to hijack this thread to educate myself.
SAS : Solid Axle Swap. Are stock axles hollow and this is why SAS is required, for strength? Is there more to it? Thanx in advance...GM

 

[granitex]

Solid axle is the old school straight tube all of the way across, as opposed to the IFS, that you have now. Typically solid is stronger, with the steering strength being the most strength. None of them are hollow, just very different technologies.

 

[robcarync]

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1205or-solid-axle-versus-ifs/


That explains a bit more about it. Basically you can have an axle that is a single piece from left wheel to right wheel (Solid Axle)....or you can have two half shafts/CV axles that go from a gear box in the middle to each wheel (IFS or Independent Front Suspension). With this set up, the left wheel is not directly connected to the right wheel (independent from each other).

A single solid axle is typically more durable than the IFS when off road. It requires a lot of custom fabrication though. Not worth it unless you are going for a monster lift height, or need the durability for off roading.

 

[CaptainMorgan_SOS]

If you stick with 4.6 gears, you are going to be seriously underpowered on 35s...

 

[Jbat]

If you stick with 4.6 gears, you are going to be seriously underpowered on 35s...

^^^this, stock motor/stock tire even came with 4.9 gears in some Xs...add 35s and you'll be wishing for more. I would suggest picking one of the gear calculators out there and calculate what gears it would take for the x to respond like stock with 35" tires and then decide if a stock like response is good enough or if you want more.

 

[TJTJ]

Its pretty straight forward to ball park gearing changes to compensate for tires.

Just divide the new tire by the old tire diameter...and you get a percent change.

IE: Your RPM at any given speed will DROP by the percent LARGER your tire is.

So, go to from 30's to 33's, and that's ~ 10 %

If you were at 2,000 RPM, the added diameter will drop you to ~ 1,800 rpm....and so forth.


To go from 30's to 35's, that's a ~ 16% change, so your rpm drops by ~ 16% from 30's to 35's.

So, if you were at 2,000 rpm on 30's, you're down to ~ 1,680 on 35's.


If your stock gears with the 30's was 4.6, for 35's, you want AT LEAST 16% back, so that's ~ 5.3 instead of 4.6. 5.13 might be as close as available, so, you'd get that, etc.


Also, the larger the tire, the more gearing you need JUST to compensate for the added rolling resistance...so, 35's are a handful for an X.

Off road, adding lower t-case gears can get the rpm up to better torque levels near idle, etc....but won't help ON road, etc.