Write-up requests

TheBlueOompa

Bought an X
I need how to remove the top part of the dash, Ive pulled everything else and don't know how to get the dash off mainly because I don't know how it is clipped to the front of the vehicle and how many/where the secret screws are
 

TheBlueOompa

Bought an X
nah im not trying to replace the heater core im painting the entire interior right now. ive gotten everything else done but the top part and when i tried to pull it off the first time i got everything out and tried to pull on it but it did not want to budge from the bulkhead and thats why i was wondering if it was screwed in and a hunt was needed or if those clips really are that strong and i just have to wrestle it out.
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
Looking for O2 sensor replacement. B1/B2 Front/Rear. If there isn't a write-up, and someone has done it and would PM me with the info, I will do a write-up for a GEN1 since I have to do it anyway... I got the code yesterday.
 

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Buy new sensor. Cut wires off old bad sensor. Use proper wrench to remove old sensor. Install new sensor with same wrench. Thread the new cable up to the top and plug it in. Always good to have a write up though. Especially if you break it down. By breaking it down meaning creating a chart showing which sensor is what check engine code. Perhaps using the cheaper more affordable universal 3 wire sensor with wire splicing. Preaching to use the box end of the wrench. Could be a cool write up.
 
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TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
I take it that there's no way to clean an o2 sensor like the MAF. I checked AZ when they read the code and the sensor cost $42. Is that hi? Also since I'm in the replace mode, Is it common place that once 1 sensor goes, it's most likely the others will too? I might as well change them all. Seems like a simple switch job unless they're in ridicules places that only a double jointed skinny person can get to.

AZ has 157 different Bosch o2 sensors while O'reilly has 10 for the 3.3l. Since many say exact fit, how do I tell which one or it doesn't make any difference?
 
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Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Not able to clean them like the MAF. Though ive seen some guys heat them with a torch to burn the carbon off the tips. $42 is pretty accurate. There is generally two types the direct fit and the universal. The direct fit version comes with the wiring harness and plugs in. The universal gives you a short pigtail section of wire and butt splice crimp connectors to reuse the old wiring harness. With the variety of O2 sensors on the engine all with different lengths of wire there may be several listed sensors. They don't generally fail so I wouldn't recommend swapping them all.


Ben
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
Great info Ben thanks. Guess I'll be going the direct fit route. Don't want to have to worry about cutting a wire or 2 too short or not crimping correctly. Been there, done that ...yanno.
 

Cameron23

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Kansas
Is there an Oil Pan seal replacement DIY?

Also a Transfer Case Seal Replacement DIY?

Took it to the dealer after this pic
for a diagnosis he said its either an oil pan leak or transfer case leak
Looking into the difficulty could I do it myself with novice to moderate as my personal mechanic skills or should I fork over the money 1 was quoted at about $7__.00 and one was $1,___.00 don't want to spend that kind of money on either one but I checked my oil level the other day and after filling it to just under top on the hash marks I was just a smidge above the bottom of the hash after only 1800 miles of almost all highway travel
f405a20cc64811e2a56722000a1f9d88_7.jpg
 

idratherbe

Skid Plates
Location
North Shore, MA
Took it to the dealer after this pic
for a diagnosis he said its either an oil pan leak or transfer case leak
Looking into the difficulty could I do it myself with novice to moderate as my personal mechanic skills or should I fork over the money

I believe on our X's , the engine needs to be dropped or lifted to get the oil pan out. I looked it up in the FSM when I noticed some rust on the top edge of my pan. It looks to be a huge PITA to do.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Off the top of my head....in order of disassembly.

Wheels
Hubs
Brakes
Knuckle
CV shafts
LCAs?
Driveshaft
Front diff X-member
Diff

Don't quote me as gospel, but I think that's right.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I'd say its perfectly doable in a weekend with a decent impact gun and some jackstands. You'd be surprised how fast everything comes apart.
 

Jack Stilts

Skid Plates
Location
Michigan
Might be a silly request, but I need some assistance with the alternator.

How is the tension released on the belt? I'm assuming it's the nut in the center; anyone know what size that is? My socket set only goes up to 19
Sad%281%29.gif
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
On the bottom of the alt, there is a bolt that runs parallel to the belt, and another that runs into that bolt. Loosen the 2nd one, as that locks it in place, then start cranking on the 1st bolt. It's all 12's iirc.

The actual wires are a 10 and 12 (maybe 14). Don't forget there's 2 bolts on the front holding it to the bracket and one in back.

Sent via wild ferrets on crack
 

Jack Stilts

Skid Plates
Location
Michigan
On the bottom of the alt, there is a bolt that runs parallel to the belt, and another that runs into that bolt. Loosen the 2nd one, as that locks it in place, then start cranking on the 1st bolt. It's all 12's iirc.

The actual wires are a 10 and 12 (maybe 14). Don't forget there's 2 bolts on the front holding it to the bracket and one in back.

Sent via wild ferrets on crack


Thanks Deeb!
 

Tay-Lo

I'm the king of junk food!
Location
Upstate SC
I have searched/googled/clicked through all relevant XN threads for gen 1 and 2, but I cannot find a how-to on a custom switch panel that goes in the cubby below the after market radio. I love howhttp://xterranation.org/member.php?39-chuckamazukchuckamazuk did it HERE. The problem is I can't tell how its mounted.

It needs to be removable for future additions. I've thought maybe Velcro or some way to screw it down that doesn't take away from everything else looking clean.

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated, this is something I plan on doing before I buy some roof and bumper LED bars but that won't be until after Christmas.

Thanks in advance!
 

Tay-Lo

I'm the king of junk food!
Location
Upstate SC
I would like to avoid cosmetic modification to the trim. But that does give me a great idea though. My idea is taking a piece of metal like you did but instead of mounting it to the dash I'll screw it into the metal behind the dash. So basically the same thing you did just screwing it into a different place. I'll have to take the dash off tomorrow to make sure this could work.

Thanks for the idea.
 

Gigashadow

Test Drive
Location
Arkansas
Anyone have a write up or have the ability to provide instruction on releasing fuel pressure if you've already FUBAR'd and removed the intake manifold / are to a point where the regular way is not an option? If instructions are provided, I can do the work and get pictures along the way for a detailed DIY. I sincerely doubt this will ever come up again, but still...

Backstory...

Mmmkay, so I'm a colossal moron. While doing a thermostat/waterpump/timing belt job, I found that my thermostat housing is cracked or something and leaking. Need to replace housing. Easy enough, right? Just remove the intake and get to the housing on the inside (under the intake) to get it out and replace it. So I started in on it... And then after I got to the fuel rail I realized the size of my SNAFU. Did not release pressure on the fuel system. So now my lower intake manifold is off and I need to release the pressure on the fuel rail. In my defense, I didn't know I'd have to do all this. Weak defense...
 

gots_a_sol

Bought an X
Location
Charles Town, WV
I think you are making a big deal out of nothing.

Loosen gas cap to make sure there is no pressure in the tank (guilty of this. Why is so much fuel coming out of this thing??? Ah, tank had some built up pressure in it; was a hot day)
Loosen hose clamp on fuel line at the filter, have a drain pan under it to catch whatever comes out.
Tighten hose clamp when fuel stops coming out
Tighten gas cap.
 

KChurch86

Banned
Founding Member
Anyone have a write up or have the ability to provide instruction on releasing fuel pressure if you've already FUBAR'd and removed the intake manifold / are to a point where the regular way is not an option? If instructions are provided, I can do the work and get pictures along the way for a detailed DIY. I sincerely doubt this will ever come up again, but still...

Backstory...

Mmmkay, so I'm a colossal moron. While doing a thermostat/waterpump/timing belt job, I found that my thermostat housing is cracked or something and leaking. Need to replace housing. Easy enough, right? Just remove the intake and get to the housing on the inside (under the intake) to get it out and replace it. So I started in on it... And then after I got to the fuel rail I realized the size of my SNAFU. Did not release pressure on the fuel system. So now my lower intake manifold is off and I need to release the pressure on the fuel rail. In my defense, I didn't know I'd have to do all this. Weak defense...

I think you are making a big deal out of nothing.

Loosen gas cap to make sure there is no pressure in the tank (guilty of this. Why is so much fuel coming out of this thing??? Ah, tank had some built up pressure in it; was a hot day)
Loosen hose clamp on fuel line at the filter, have a drain pan under it to catch whatever comes out.
Tighten hose clamp when fuel stops coming out
Tighten gas cap.

I think what he's getting at is that the "book" way of releasing the pressure is to pull the fuel pump fuse, then try to start the truck. The fuel system is under constant pressure, so by pulling the fuse and turning the key you're permanently releasing the pressure (until you replace the fuse and start the truck).

BUT with his truck torn down the way that it is, he can't very well so it by the book.

That being said, I don't really know what to tell you about how to relieve the pressure now that your truck is torn down. I guess pull a fuel line carefully, don't point it at your face, catch what falls, and cap/pinch the lines so you don't just piddle all the fuel from the lines.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
 
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