caseycamby's Build Thread

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
The better question is, what were you doing to do that much damage? Because I've done some stupid stuff on the stock steering gear and haven't had that problem................. Yet..............
I did that same spot with my oem steering parts. Parts that have seen over 100k in miles lol I had no problems
 

Diadaga

Suspension Lift
Founding Member
Location
Virginia
The better question is, what were you doing to do that much damage? Because I've done some stupid stuff on the stock steering gear and haven't had that problem................. Yet..............
Driving dumb, got himself flat out stuck in deep mud, and then took a bad angle up a rock, which snapped the tie rod. Followed that by replacing it with a worn stock one that wasn't at the length it needed to be (I believe Idk though Tucker fixed it) and got himself up the hill to the flat while his wheels went wherever they wanted to including almost 90 degrees towards each other.
 

caseycamby

Suspension Lift
Location
Marion, NC
It pays to have a spotter. I thought I was banging my front skid but it turned out to be my rear axle. I just started pivoting the X off the pumpkin and it slid enough to snap the tie rod. We were able to replace the tie rod there and limp it up to a flat spot where Brian noticed the idler arm was bent to. It was causing all 4 nuts on both sides to hit the frame so I pretty much couldn't turn. I kept spares for both so that wasn't a problem. The spare tie rod lined up pretty well, it was pretty dang close to the original alignment. I drove it home without adjusting the toe.

But yeah, getting stuck in the mud was dumb haha I knew I could get yanked out easily though, if needed.. which it was.
 

ericcris10sen

First Fill-Up (of many)
Seriously...one of my FAVORITE build threads. So many awesome pictures and VIDEOS! Yellow is my favorite color and I just absolutely love the fact that you've painted almost everything yellow LOL Damn, that's SO AWESOME :p

Also, in that video as well as some pictures where you were going through extremely deep mud, did you happen to have any trouble after that in terms of getting things clogged up under the hood? A while ago I went with a friend and we went through some extremely deep, thick mud and apparently it clogged up sensors and whatnot in there, and it caused my truck to overheat (was from previous runs as well) and the worse was it caused my truck to stall and die almost every time I stopped at a light. Do you ever have any issues with that or does your snorkel help that not happen?
 
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TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Seriously...one of my FAVORITE build threads. So many awesome pictures and VIDEOS! Yellow is my favorite color and I just absolutely love the fact that you've painted almost everything yellow LOL Damn, that's SO AWESOME :p

Also, in that video as well as some pictures where you were going through extremely deep mud, did you happen to have any trouble after that in terms of getting things clogged up under the hood? A while ago I went with a friend and we went through some extremely deep, thick mud and apparently it clogged up sensors and whatnot in there, and it caused my truck to overheat (was from previous runs as well) and the worse was it caused my truck to stall and die almost every time I stopped at a light. Do you ever have any issues with that or does your snorkel help that not happen?


If doing mud, the most common cause of overheating isn't sensors clogging (They don't clog) its the radiator getting clogged (They DO clog).

Sensors can get WET, but that's a temporary issue....but the mud needs to be cleaned out of the radiator fins before it hardens to an adobe-like cement in there, blocking airflow. With less air going through the radiator, there's less air to carry off the heat its supposed to radiate away, etc.

You would also open your air box and distributor and see if they're dry...and, if not, dry out your air filter/box, dizzy, etc.

Your alternator is very vulnerable, and cleaning it out is vital too. If you get it clean, then spray its guts/wiring thoroughly with Si spray to help the next batch of goo slough off instead of sticking. They are not that hard ot take out, clean, and put back if the brushes, etc, are really effed up with crud...about a 45 minute project. Spraying ALL of your wiring, fuses, etc, with that Si spray also helps to keep them cleaner and drier....with fewer dash lights, etc.

:D
 

caseycamby

Suspension Lift
Location
Marion, NC
Thanks for the compliments! I really appreciate it!

Like TJ said, the only real "problem" I had was getting mud and dust in the radiator. It's pretty much vital to go straight to a car wash and rinse out the radiator after you go through mud or if it's dusty conditions. Always keep and eye on your temp gauge. Other than that, I really haven't had any problems with mud. Just a little creaking and belt squeaks until I can get it all cleaned out. I'd prefer to stay away from mud but sometimes it's just fun ;)
 

caseycamby

Suspension Lift
Location
Marion, NC
Clean time! Taking the skid off to get all up under there lead to a problem.. The skid plate bolt took a hit..

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I was able to file it down and go from a 1/2 inch to a 13mm and tap it on the bolt to get it off. Much better!

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All shiny! Also, she's no longer the titless wonder ;)

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ericcris10sen

First Fill-Up (of many)
If doing mud, the most common cause of overheating isn't sensors clogging (They don't clog) its the radiator getting clogged (They DO clog).

Sensors can get WET, but that's a temporary issue....but the mud needs to be cleaned out of the radiator fins before it hardens to an adobe-like cement in there, blocking airflow. With less air going through the radiator, there's less air to carry off the heat its supposed to radiate away, etc.

You would also open your air box and distributor and see if they're dry...and, if not, dry out your air filter/box, dizzy, etc.

Your alternator is very vulnerable, and cleaning it out is vital too. If you get it clean, then spray its guts/wiring thoroughly with Si spray to help the next batch of goo slough off instead of sticking. They are not that hard ot take out, clean, and put back if the brushes, etc, are really effed up with crud...about a 45 minute project. Spraying ALL of your wiring, fuses, etc, with that Si spray also helps to keep them cleaner and drier....with fewer dash lights, etc.

:D

Well when I took it to the mechanic they said the MAF sensor was flooded with mud and needed replaced and that was what caused it to stall and shut off. I probably should have washed under the hood the first time through the mud. I was kind of nervous about spraying water under the hood because I hear there may be certain electronic things under there that can get destroyed if doused in water (might be for newer/high tech cars but I'm not a mechanic so I don't know sheeit about things like that).

But this is good information. When I run through mud again, I'm going to have to refer to this again.

Thanks for the compliments! I really appreciate it!

Like TJ said, the only real "problem" I had was getting mud and dust in the radiator. It's pretty much vital to go straight to a car wash and rinse out the radiator after you go through mud or if it's dusty conditions. Always keep and eye on your temp gauge. Other than that, I really haven't had any problems with mud. Just a little creaking and belt squeaks until I can get it all cleaned out. I'd prefer to stay away from mud but sometimes it's just fun ;)

Hmmm....that's strange. Well, not sure why it affected mine so much but that's good to know!
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Well when I took it to the mechanic they said the MAF sensor was flooded with mud and needed replaced and that was what caused it to stall and shut off. I probably should have washed under the hood the first time through the mud. I was kind of nervous about spraying water under the hood because I hear there may be certain electronic things under there that can get destroyed if doused in water (might be for newer/high tech cars but I'm not a mechanic so I don't know sheeit about things like that).

But this is good information. When I run through mud again, I'm going to have to refer to this again.



Hmmm....that's strange. Well, not sure why it affected mine so much but that's good to know!

The MAF is not outside where it would get mud on it...its IN your intake plenum, so, that means you sucked muddy water into your intake, and, you had water in your air box, the other thing mentioned to check, etc.

:D

You're very lucky you didn't hydrolock the engine. If a slug of that intake water had made it into a cylinder under compression, you could have done some real damage in there.

So....washing the engine off would NOT have cleaned the MAF sensor, as its not where the water would go from cleaning.....but the radiator definetely could benefit from a hose down....especially if the hose is aimed from the ENGINE side, so as to spray the fan side of the radiator, and out the grill side. (As most got deposited from the front going through stuff, you knock it back out the other way to dislodge it more easily vs driving it the rest of the way through the fins, etc).

Open your air box, be sure they replace d the filter/dried it all out too.

The plenum to the top of the engine may have water in it too.


Plan B - They lied to you to sell you a MAF....and its all clean and dry in there.

The MAF can also be fouled from ordinary dirt, oils used on filters, such as K&N, etc....but those can be cleaned off using MAF cleaner, and don't require replacement of the MAF.
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ

It looks like it would work for night wheeling on trals, etc...but for driving at speed on back roads/avoiding deer etc, there's too much proximal light at the expense of distal light. When its that bright close up where your normal headlights, etc, are already lighting, your pupils stop down, and you need even MORE light to see stuff out farther away in the darkness.

If you can aim all of them farther away so the first parts of the pattern start where your high beams tail off for example, you'd actually see better.

:D


In road racing, its called the difference between seeing what you would have crashed into vs seeing what you are crashing into.

:D
 

caseycamby

Suspension Lift
Location
Marion, NC
Yeah I know what you're talking about. I actually have that roof light pointed higher the straight out. It's going pretty far out down the road. Enough to where there is no glare on the hood. I have my headlights and fogs at the driving level. The Ironman just above that and the new 33" above all of that. It seems to work pretty good so far.
 

caseycamby

Suspension Lift
Location
Marion, NC
Spent today adding HP..

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I have the same Danny sticker on the opposite side, as well. Overall I added 10 new decals. I updated the signature and the first post as well. I really need to update that "current" picture....
 

caseycamby

Suspension Lift
Location
Marion, NC
You should do it for kicks!

By the way.. I broke out the old wind fairing, painted it black and put it up on the X. It makes the look! I should've taken a picture but I forgot.
 
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TheRenderJunkie

Test Drive
Location
Chicagoland, IL
Spent today adding HP..







2054244D-3F94-4A73-98EC-3CB9634C9BB5_zpsnmxntl4f.jpg



I have the same Danny sticker on the opposite side, as well. Overall I added 10 new decals. I updated the signature and the first post as well. I really need to update that "current" picture....

That's a sweet spot for the xterra-performance sticker! Might do that as well.

Awesome build thread! Seriously. A little upset I didn't take a closer look at WENT.
 

caseycamby

Suspension Lift
Location
Marion, NC
Thank you! I don't think I've ever seen one there. I was just running out of room and it looked like a pretty good spot haha

And there's always next year! Lord willing I'll be there!
 

caseycamby

Suspension Lift
Location
Marion, NC
Pictures of the fairing back in place!

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Much better! Also, picked up this bad boy!

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The Ultra Gauge EM v1.2! Looking forward to toying with this thing!
 

caseycamby

Suspension Lift
Location
Marion, NC
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At the expense of the shop vice I was able to salvage the tie rod ends from the incident. I may be getting a pair of HD TRAs from Dave and the idler arm is being warrantied so this whole thing won't be too much of a set back!

I have a couple of off road trips in the coming months so I gotta get this thing in top off roading order soon!
 
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