How To: Lokk and Drop Your Front Diff (Front Lokka and Diff Drop Bushings Install)

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
Lokked and Dropped


Warning: Very thorough and a lot to read. Many of the steps were easier said than done, so I tried to elaborate on my technique and what did and didn't work for me.


The Lokka install is often coupled with diff drop bushings, seeing as the differential will already be removed. Phrog Man has an awesome write up on installing the diff drop bushings. I will add a few of my thoughts throughout the process, but still recommend checking his tutorial out for a more thorough walk through specific to the bushings. I will also go into the differential tear down and install of the Lokka gears. Special thanks to cmilano for his help in getting this done. I am dividing the “How To” into 4 phases:


1. Removing Differential
2. Removing Stock Bushings
3. Installing the Lokka
4. Reassembly


Original diff drop DIY


http://www.clubxterra.org/forums/showthread.php?t=31336


Lokka


http://lokka.com/site/


Diff Drop Bushings


https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/front-differential-drop-drown-bushings-p-5272.html


Removing Differential


The differential assembly is held in by 4 mounting bolts. It is also bolted to the CV axles on each side, and the front drive shaft. I drove my Xterra up on ramps to get more room under the truck to move around. Remove any skid plates that may be blocking access to the differential area.


The first step is to tackle the front drive shaft bolts. There are four bolts and four nuts holding the drive shaft U-joint to the differential. Put the transfer case into 4hi and/or lock your 4WD hubs to lock the drive shaft from rotating. My hardware had red Loctite on them, and was extremely tight. Spray PB Blaster on the hardware and let it soak for a minute. Use a rag to wipe up any remaining drips of PB Blaster. Use a propane torch directly on the nut side of the hardware to heat the nut up enough so you can break it loose. It is a good idea to keep a spray bottle of water nearby in case the PB Blaster flares up. Use a 14mm wrench to crack the nut loose, and remove the nut and bolt. Return the transfer case to 2hi and/or unlock your 4WD hubs so you can rotate the drive shaft to access another bolt. Return the transfer case to 4hi and/or lock your 4WD hubs to lock the drive shaft, and repeat. If the bolts still won’t break loose, use more heat. I had to keep the torch on the nut for what seemed like minutes. Tie off the drive shaft to support it after all hardware is removed.


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The CV axles are next. Each CV is held to the differential by 6 bolts, arranged in 3 groups of 2.


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These bolts had blue Loctite on them but can be broken loose with a 12mm wrench. You need to lock your hubs to keep the CV axle from rotating when you put the wrench on it. If you have the stock auto locking hubs like I do, they will lock after a small amount of rotation. You will need to unlock your hubs to rotate the CV axle to access the other bolts. If you have the stock hubs you need to remove the outer hub with a 6mm hex wrench to rotate the CV axle. Re-install the outer hub to lock the CV axle in place. The outer hub should slide on smoothly all the way. If it doesn’t install completely, remove and try a new spline orientation. The hubs have to be aligned properly to completely sit flush on the hub. Repeat until both sides are completely unbolted. This can be tedious due to the amount of space you have to turn the wrench. Tie up the CV axles to the UCA to support them.

Note: If you have an impact wrench with an extension and a wobble joint, this will be a much faster task by removing the tires and going through the control arms with the wrench. Much quicker and easier.


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There are four bolts supporting the differential assembly. There are two on the cross member near the drive shaft, and two in the front right above the center link. Spray the nuts with PB Blaster and let them soak. I was able to break the cross member bolts free with a 17mm socket with a breaker bar. A 17mm wrench is needed to hold the bolt head on the other side. I had to use the propane torch on the front two mounting bolts. Once again, with care, direct the torch flame directly at the nut. When it is hot enough, use the 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to break them free. Loosen all of the nuts, but leave the bolts in to hold the assembly up.

Alternative: You can leave the front two bushings bolted and unbolt the entire front cross member instead. This will make it much easier to assemble the differential later, as you will be able to lift it straight up without having to rotate it.


Use some pliers and a screw driver to remove the breather hose and clamp. This is on the front of the differential behind the oil filter.


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The differential is now ready to be dropped down. I used this time to back the Xterra off the ramps, so there was less distance for the differential to fall down on me. There is no real delicate way to do this, but I used a hydraulic jack and a couple of jack stands. The bolts were easy to tap out of the mounts, but it is difficult to gracefully lower the differential assembly down. Stay out from under this thing unless you have an extra set of hands. It is an awkward shape with no really convenient center of gravity. The drive shaft side ended up dropping down first, and the rest of the differential assembly followed.


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Removing Stock Bushings


The first step to installing the diff drop bushings is to remove the old ones. There is one bushing on the differential case, two on the attached cross member, and one still attached to the front of the vehicle frame. Remove the bushing from the frame with a 17mm socket so you can have all four bushings on a bench.


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Remove the cross member from the differential housing using a 17mm wrench. Find your weapon of choice, and work on removing that rubber! I used a drill with a slow cutting speed close to the edge of the bushing. This seemed to rip the rubber off the outer metal sleeve, destroying more rubber in its path. I then used a propane torch to heat up the rubber making is softer, and went to work with a screw driver picking away at them. There is no science to this…however you want to destructively remove the rubber is up to you.


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Once you remove the rubber core you need to get to work on the outer sleeve. Use a reciprocating saw or hack saw to cut a slot in the steel sleeve. With the sleeve having a slot cut into it, you should be able to take a cold chisel and hammer the sleeve out. It works best to turn the chisel at a 90 degree angle to the wall and try to push it down with the corner of the chisel. Cutting the slot seems to relieve enough pressure for it to slide out. If you bend the sleeve inwards, it tends to bind up and make it tighter...I tried that first and it took forever (photos below). Cut one slot and see if it slides out with a few hammer taps around the outer edge. I was able to remove one that was not bent or deformed at all, which is what I would recommend trying to do.


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Note: Trying to bend the bushings inwards like this photo tends to bind up and make it more difficult. Cut one slot, and try to push straight down on the sleeve around the edges.


We will install the drop bushings as the last step before re-installing the differential…so you are now ready to move on to the Lokka!
 
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robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
Installing the Lokka


Now that you have the differential removed from the truck, you can open it up and begin the differential tear down. First, drain the fluid using your method of choice. Remove the differential cover using a 14mm wrench.


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On the driver’s side axle, there is a single 14mm bolt to remove. Once you remove this bolt, you can remove the short axle.


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The passenger side has a flange connected with 4 bolts. Mark the flange and remove these bolts to slide the long axle out of the differential housing. You may need to give it a few taps with a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet.


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Now you are ready to remove the bearing caps. Use a 17mm wrench to remove the 4 bolts holding the bearing caps in place.


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Use a pry bar behind the carrier and pry it out of the casing. I had to use a 3 pound hammer to tap it out by prying against the back of the carrier and the edge of the casing. When the carrier comes out, keep track of the parts that come out with it. Make sure you note the orientation of the bearing caps and which side each of the washers go back into. You will also have a spacer on one side to keep track of.


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Now that the carrier is removed, mark the ring gear. Use a 17mm wrench to remove the bolts holding it in place. It can be difficult to remove the torqued bolts unless you have a bench vise to hold the carrier in place, or an impact wrench. I ended up marking my ring gear by putting a bolt back in the hole that lined up with the cross pin in the carrier because my sharpie kept smearing.


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With the ring gear removed, take a 3/16” punch and a hammer to slide the cross pin just far enough so the cross shaft is free. I punched the pin from the ring gear down, but I am not sure if it can go either way. I was able to use the blunt end of a 3/16” drill bit as a punch, since the punch I had was tapered and would not push the pin down far enough.


If you use a normal punch, watch the tapered section where it starts to get wider. You don't want to get it wedged in the hole. If you do, then you will need a smaller punch to punch your punch out of the hole (personal experience). The pin is actually hollow, so make sure the punch seats against the edges of the pin to drive it down.


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With the pin out of the way, remove the cross shaft and the two spider gears that rotate on it. These gears (and washers) are no longer used.


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Now the two axle gears can be removed. Make sure you keep track of the washers on each gear. They need to stay on the same side that they came from. The driver’s side axle gear will have a special nut pressed into it. Remember that single bolt you removed from the axle shaft? This is what it screws into on the inside of the casing. Take a socket and a hammer to knock it out.


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This nut will need to be inserted into the Lokka axle gear. Inserted as is, you will not have enough clearance to install all of the gears into the carrier “window”.


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You need to grind the flat edge down with an angle grinder and remove about half of the width.


Warning: The nut will be VERY HOT from the friction of grinding. Use gloves, or let it cool before continuing.


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NOTE: It was brought to my attention that you can install the gears without grinding down the nut. Some have had no problems fitting it through the window after it was pressed in, and others pressed it in after the Lokka was slid into the carrier:

From clubxterra mmetzger1234:


Put both axle gears in first then, Nut can be place inside the correct side spacer with cam gears. then flip carrier on side to press nut in axel gear through axle gears hole after both sides are in the carrier. Everything should fit fine.

Once you have grinded down enough (hopefully) of the nut, grab your Lokka gears: You should have two axle gears, two spacers, and two cam gears.


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Take the nut and press it into one of the Lokka axle gears. I used a 17 mm socket and a hammer to mate it into the splines.


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Next, take some grease, and seat the washers against the backside of the axle gears.


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Now you can insert both Lokka axle gears into the carrier. The one with the pressed nut should go on the side with the shorter axle. Put the spacers in the middle of the cam gears with the flat side going inwards towards the middle of the carrier. Apply some grease to the gears, and if you are lucky, both cam gears will squeeze in the carrier window, and the grease will stick the gears in place. If the gears don’t fit, you will need to grind the nut down some more. If you need to grind the nut some more, obviously, remove it from the gear so you don’t grind your gears by accident!


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Now, line up the holes and slots so you can insert the pins and springs. The pin goes into the hole with the flat end at the bottom of the hole and the nipple pointed at the slot. You have to tap the pin into the slot first (punch and hammer), and then slide it down into the hole (I used a small hex wrench to push it). Next, pop in the springs. Start by putting one end of the spring around the nipple of the pin. Then, compress the spring enough to seat the other end in the slot. Once again, I had to tap them in with a hammer and punch to fully seat them in the slot. This was tedious and a little difficult, but be careful, and don’t lose a spring when they pop out and go flying!


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robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
Reassembly


Rotate the Lokka so the cross shaft can be inserted and retained with the pin. Use feeler gauges to take the measurements as included in the Lokka instructions, and assuming your measurements are in spec, continue to reassemble the differential. You will need a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet to seat the ring gear on the carrier, then you can tighten the bolts in a star pattern to fully seat the gear.


Before reassembling the carrier into the differential casing, I recommend spraying brake parts cleaner in the casing and wiping everything out with a clean shop rag. Also, apply some fresh grease to the bearing races and spacers. Assemble the carrier into the differential casing, using care to assemble the washers and the spacer into the proper place.


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Insert the two axles, and bolt into place. Check your differential cover gasket, and replace if necessary. Make sure your drain plug is in place. I recommend using Teflon tape on the plug threads to maintain a solid seal. Fill with fresh fluid (1.75 liters…1.85 quarts), and put the fill plug in place.


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Torques


Ring Gear: Medium thread locker
Bearing Caps: 65-72 foot pounds
Short Axle Bolt: 25-33 foot pounds
Long Axle Flange: 23-31 foot pounds
Differential Cover bolts: 29-36 foot pounds


Now, bolt the cross member back to the differential casing. Go ahead and pop the new bushings in place. This is easier said than done, as they are a tight fit and will need to be hammered. The hole goes at the top on the bushings attached to the differential cover and cross members. The single bushing on the extra bracket has the hole on the bottom.


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Loosely bolt up the bushing on the bracket to the frame. Loosen the bolts holding the other bracket to the frame. This helps you get those first bushings in place.

Use a strong friend, a jack, etc to lift the front of the differential into place. You have to put the front end almost straight up, and rotate the front bushings into place on top of the frame as you bring the drive shaft end up. I was able to do this myself, but had modified the scissor jack to turn it into a steel platform to support the differential. I had to continually shift jack stands around and try to inch it into place. This is a complete PAIN.

Alternative: If you removed the entire front cross member, you can attach that to the differential before installing. When you go to lift the differential with both cross members attached, you can lift it straight up into place instead of at an angle and rotating into place.

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Insert the bolts that are first available (two front bushings). Hope that the cross member bushings don’t need readjusted. I got the first two bushing bolts in, and had to use a pry bar to help seat the cross member bushings. My cross member bushings were ever so slightly off, and was unable to get the bolts back in. I ended up replacing the cross member bolts with the metric equivalent (M12 X 90) as they are slightly more narrow. Use grade 10.9 if you go this route.

Reassemble the CV axles with medium strength thread locker and bolt up the drive shaft. The drive shaft can telescope, and may hydraulically retract, increasing the gap between the drive shaft and differential. If that is the case, try to get one bolt started and wrench it to force the drive shaft to extend. This should bring the flanges close enough to seat the remaining bolts.

Reattach the breather hose. Perform the Lokka test included in the instructions.


Torques
Cross Member to Differential: 50-64 foot pounds
Bracket to Frame: 50-64 foot pounds
All Bushings: 50-64 foot pounds
CV Axles: 33 foot pounds with thread lock
Drive Shaft: 64 foot pounds


CONGRATULATIONS, YOU ARE NOW LOKKED AND DROPPED



Abbreviated Version with Differential Already on Bench:

1. Get the diff on your work bench with rags under it and remove the front cover
2. now remove the four 14mm nuts on the passenger side of the diff and mark the flange, now that you have removed the 4 bolts/nuts on the square flange you can slide the long axle shaft out of the diff
3. On the driver’s side just remove the one 14mm bolt in the center of where the CV shaft mounts to and then slide out the axle shaft
4. Now remove the bearing journals 2 bolts per a side (17mm bolt heads)
5. You are now ready to pull out the guts/ring and carrier assembly, you may need to pry it out.
6. Once you have removed the carrier assembly you will notice on each side there is a bearing race and a large washer/spacer so be sure not mix up which side they go on.
7. Now remove all the bolts that hold the ring gear onto the carrier and remove the ring gear.
8. Now take a skinny punch and punch out the roll pin that is holding the cross shaft in place, you don’t need to fully remove the roll pin but just enough so that the cross shaft can slide out.
9. Now remove the 2 small spider gears and the rounded washers behind them, you will not need these anymore.
10. You can now remove the axle gears and thrust washers that are behind the gears, make sure you don’t mix up the left and right thrust washers as you want everything to go back exactly as it was before.
11. Now install the Lokka axle gears with the thrust washers into the carrier and install the Lokka spacers into the center of the Lokka axle gears with the flat end of the spacer facing to the center of the carrier.
12. Now slide the cross shaft back into the carrier and measure the cross shaft to spacer clearance and they should be between 0.006-0.020" with no more than 0.010 difference between the left and right sides. Now if your clearances are within the spec install the cam gears and measure the inter-cam spacing, the gap between the cams should be 0.145-0.165". If all your measurements are within the spec (they should be unless your cross shaft or thrust washers are badly worn) you can proceed.
13. Now remember the driver’s side flange lock nut that is pressed into the stock drivers side axle gear!? you need to punch it out of the stock axle gear and punch it into the Lokka axle gear but if you go to install the Lokka parts back into the carrier after you have done that, you will not be able to get all the parts in through the carrier window/opening because the cam gears will not have enough room to slide in because they will be hitting the flange nut. You have to machine down the nut just enough so that the cams can slide in.
14. After that install the pins and springs, slide in the cross shaft and punch the roll pin back in place.
15. Install the ring gear to its original spot and torque to spec and install assembly back into diff housing with bearing races and spacers on the correct sides.
16. Install bearing journals and torque to spec.
17. Slide axle shafts back into diff and torque to spec.
18. Install diff cover with new gasket or favorite sealant and torque to spec.
19. Fill with fluid (about 2 liters) and re -install back into vehicle.

I had typed up these instructions so I could print them out to keep me on track during installation of the Lokka. Makes a nice reference once you are familiar with the installation process.

 
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rokdaddy

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
New Mexico
Very nice sir.

Hopefully I'll be dropping my front diff this weekend. I'm hoping that I will be able to press out the old diff bushings on a 20 ton press but I'm prepared to do the "hack 'em 'till they're gone" method if it comes to that.

So what are your first impressions of the Lokka?


-Rok
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
My front diff is still on the ground waiting to bolt up :) I thought while I have the diff out, I will replace my front CV axles since the rubber boots were shot. Of course, even with the diff removed, you still have to pop the upper ball joints to slide them out of the hub. So I might as well replace those since those rubber boots were shot. I also had to pop the outer tie rod ends out of the spindle to rotate the hub back enough to remove the CV joint...those are new for me...but you can see how it all snow balls :)

Removing the old bushings weren't TOO TOO BAD once you get the hang of them. The last steel sleeve I popped out in about 3 minutes. The problem is the initial instinct is destroy them and bend them and peel them to the middle...that tends to bind them up and make it more difficult. One or two slots cut...and the corner of the chisel right on the edge at a few different locations around the circumference...should slide out nicely. If this was the only difficult part, I would not have a problem doing the bushings again.

Drop bushing itself is a pain in the A$$ to install though...and good luck having the bushing holes perfectly aligned to get all 4 bolts through...I would NEVER do these again...but I am past the point of no return so I have to screw with them some more to get the diff lined up...

If the outer diameter of the bushing was about 1-2mm smaller and the inner bore for the steel sleeve was 1-2mm larger, it would be fine. Problem is there is no real way to gage exactly how they go in other than "these 3 go up, this one points down". They are such a tight fit, that if the bolt holes don't line up, you can't easily rotate them to adjust. I had to use a 3 pound sledge to seat the bushings, and that is even after I lubed them up with grease. I then had to use a 3 pound sledge to insert the steel sleeves., and try not to push the other bushing out the backside when you hammer the sleeve through. You literally have to stretch the urethane bushing to get the sleeve inserted correctly. Tough to install with no real way to adjust...At least centered bushings are symmetric!

Others have said the Lokka performed great off road though. HOping to have everything back together by the weekend.
 
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rokdaddy

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
New Mexico
My front diff is still on the ground waiting to bolt up :) I thought while I have the diff out, I will replace my front CV axles since the rubber boots were shot. Of course, even with the diff removed, you still have to pop the upper ball joints to slide them out of the hub. So I might as well replace those since those rubber boots were shot. I also had to pop the outer tie rod ends out of the spindle to rotate the hub back enough to remove the CV joint...those are new for me...but you can see how it all snow balls :)

I'll be doing a similar front end rebuild over the next couple of weeks. I also have a torn CV boot and I figure that I should replace as much as I can while I'm in there. I'll probably swap out everything that is replaceable, all the way out to the hubs. I'm also regearing to 5.14 and dropping in a locker as well.

Thanks for the heads-up on the diff drop bushings; I knew that they were going to be trouble and now I know what it will look like. Good luck getting those bushings aligned, I cant wait to experience the joy for myself.


-Rok
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
I ran into issues with the CV joint...Hoping with the diff removed I would not need to pop the upper ball joints out. However, the hub side CV joint was too fat and ran into the LCA and the lower shock mount. Popping the upper ball joint out lets you rotate the hub backwards some, but still not enough to clear the joint. I had to pop the outer tie rod end too. Word of advice: Do not pop the tie rod ends out by hitting the threaded end with a hammer...you will damage the threads, and the castle nut will NOT go back on...then you will be forced to buy a new tie rod end too...(personal experience)

If my suspension lift was lower, I think the CV would clear the LCA no problem...but with the control arms drooped low at that angle, the CV gets hung up. Honestly, I am not sure if I could even replace the CV axles without either 1) lowering my suspension lift so the control arms aren't drooped as much or 2) Removing the front differential so you can pull the axle out at any angle.

If you are dead set on the diff drop bushings, rock on. My advice is still to lower your suspension lift 1/4" if you are worried about CV angles...virtually the same result and takes 30 minutes instead of an extra 6 hours of heart ache. Hopefully with my advice and techniques from this, you can get the bushings done quicker than I did, though.

Good luck, and post up with questions!
 

Mirage

<img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u7/ra
Founding Member
Location
Greenville SC
I think the diff drop is worth it, but damn it is a pain in the ass, that front bushing that is oriented different took me forever to get a right as well. I put a jack stand under my LCA when I did my CV's and only popped out the upper ball joint and was able to get the CV out without much of a fight, my front end is a hair over 3". If you put the castle nut back on the end of the tie rods, whack it out to pop it free then take the nut off, it usually keeps the threads from getting damaged.

Good write up on the lokka install.
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
Well I got both upper ball joints replaced today and both CV axles replaced. I tried with just popping the upper ball joint, but no luck. I tried putting a jack under the LCA but it started pushing the entire truck up...maybe because the truck was already leaning so much from the hi lift on the slider. I did try your trick with leaving the castle nut on the end of the threads of the tie rod end, and it worked like a charm, no damaged threads!

All that is left is to bolt up the Lokked front diff tomorrow, and hope that the bushings line up properly! I will hopefully be able to test the Lokka out Saturday sometime and report back here!
 

yellowx16

Need Bigger Tires
Founding Member
Location
Rochester, NY
Well I got both upper ball joints replaced today and both CV axles replaced. I tried with just popping the upper ball joint, but no luck. I tried putting a jack under the LCA but it started pushing the entire truck up...maybe because the truck was already leaning so much from the hi lift on the slider. I did try your trick with leaving the castle nut on the end of the threads of the tie rod end, and it worked like a charm, no damaged threads! All that is left is to bolt up the Lokked front diff tomorrow, and hope that the bushings line up properly! I will hopefully be able to test the Lokka out Saturday sometime and report back here!
Excited to see everything installed!
on a side note...The ball joints on the AC UCAs are pathy/hardbody ball joints right? what kind did you use? I need to get some for my AC arms and want to know what people are using.
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
'95 Pathfinder upper ball joints...I just went to Auto Zone and got Duralast ball joints. Not as "good" as Moog or other brands, but for ~20 bucks a piece, I will take it. I actually have historically had good luck with Duralast products from Auto Zone. All of my tie rod ends are Duralast, and I have used many of their brake pads, rotors, and calipers on past vehicles.

When you don't have time to wait for Rock Auto to ship things, you can't complain about the convenience of having parts in stock 5 minutes away :)
 

xterraminator

Wheeling
Location
Maple Ridge,BC
How is he LOkk working for you? I went to a local off-roading shop nearby and he showed to me a Spartan locker. Its exactly the same thing. They are identical in design. I guess over the years they have been getting away from mechanical lockers due to the teeth(square) getting rounded out. Myself I am still on the fence on air vs mechanical lockers. For the price its nice but an air locker can last a lifetime. Being on a budget I would have to choose mechanical. I guess mechanical lockers can lock up at highway speed so be careful when going around a corner and you give it gas.
 

TKDx00

Lockers Installed
Founding Member
I've had the Diff Drop bushing sitting on the shelf for 3 yrs. Heard too many installation horror stories to make the attempt. Anyone of you experts wanna make a road trip?
I'll feed ya... :lols:
 

xterror04

Site sponsor
Founding Member
Location
Carlisle, Iowa
I've had the Diff Drop bushing sitting on the shelf for 3 yrs. Heard too many installation horror stories to make the attempt. Anyone of you experts wanna make a road trip?
I'll feed ya... :lols:

I wouldn't help install them if you paid me $500... They were a serious pain in the ass... I just put mine in and it took about 8 hours of removing resetting them and repeating until it all lined up, all for 3/8" hardly worth it... My cvs were binding before, and were still binding after so I had to let the torsion bars down anyway
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
I wouldn't help install them if you paid me $500... They were a serious pain in the ass... I just put mine in and it took about 8 hours of removing resetting them and repeating until it all lined up, all for 3/8" hardly worth it... My cvs were binding before, and were still binding after so I had to let the torsion bars down anyway

Agreed. LOL. Removing the diff isn't too bad...I mean...gravity is on your side. Cutting the rubber out isn't too bad. Removing the metal sleeves was awful. Installing the new bushings is actually pretty awful. The hardest part for me, was RE-INSTALLING the differential. Obviously, if you want to do a Lokka, you will have to re-install it anyway. At least by keeping centered bushings, you know they will line up, and you don't run the risk of having to lift it into place again after you adjust the bushings for the 2nd or 3rd time.

The two bolts in the cross member were maybe 1/16th of an inch off for me. I ended up buying metric M12 bolts, which is just ever so slightly smaller than the standard 1/2" bolts that were used...and was able to get away from dropping it down and adjusting again...but...it was AWFUL.

Also, I found just from looking around at the geometry, even dropping the diff down, the angle of the LCA was pretty severe, reducing the clearance for the CV joint anyway. It seemed to me that even dropping the diff, you still need to look out for the lower shock mount and LCA for interference. Additionally, my ability to get an alignment greatly improved after dropping my torsion bars, and my tie rods are at better angles, reducing the possibility of breaking.

Because of this, my recommendation is still to lower your torsion bars 1/4" if you are concerned ... much easier, and improved CV angles, LCA angles, tie rod angles, etc. 1/4" or so less lift may not be as cool, but it relieves all of these issues.

In hind sight, I completely believe I got suckered into the "add-a-mod-to-my-internet-signature-syndrome". Hey the diff is removed, might as well add a mod and improve this one angle. Well...in hindsight, it still wasn't worth it.

Xterminator:

Mechanical lockers are not an issue if you have hubs that unlock. When in two wheel drive, the transfer case is unlocked from the drive train. The hubs are also unlocked, so the front tires are free wheeling. There is no way for this to lock up on the road. It has absolutely no impact on driving in two wheel drive. 90% of the time, the Lokka isn't even rotating. This also reduces wear on the teeth. Also, the Lokka has teeth that are trapezoid and not totally square. It sounds like the off road shop is trying to sell you something more expensive.

I just got everything installed and put back together today since I had been travelling for work last week. I took it to a gravel road to try out 4wd and it is locking properly. I haven't had it on any off road terrain to really test out the difference.
 
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robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
Well, I have everything put back together. I haven't wheeled with it yet, but did test it out on a gravel road. Both front tires are definitely lokked together. As people have reported, with power going to both front wheels, the steering wheel does always want to go back to center a bit more aggressively than normal. I don't think it will cause any issues with handling, but it will take a bit to get used to the increased resistance while steering. I couldn't hear any ratcheting even when forcing it through some tight three point turns. It's hard to hear over the gravel on the tires. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will get a chance to wheel with it and see how easily the beast will crawl over the terrain.
 

xterraminator

Wheeling
Location
Maple Ridge,BC
Thanks for the good feedback. For the issue of cost I think for now I will go with mechanical Lockers. How much did you pay to do the front?

Sent from Samsung Note 2 using Tapatalk
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
A) Xterminator: I got the Lokka on sale for $300. You will have to pay a $37 customs fee to a company named TNT, which will send you an invoice. It is a legit bill. They are the carrier that shipped the Lokka to you, and they paid the customs bill to get it to you, and then you pay them back for it. I did the install myself, but had to spend a bit on additional tools and stuff that I did not have. For the LOKKA only, here is the list of tools/equipment you will need as best as I can remember:

1) Assorted breaker bars, sockets, extensions (14mm and 17mm are most important)
2) 6mm Hex/allen wrench
3) Torque wrench for reassembly
4) Assorted open end wrenches (14mm and 17mm are most important)
5) Propane torch
6) Pry Bar
7) Various punches (3/16" is the important one, I bought a variety pack in multiple sizes...they come in handy)
8) Impact wrench with wobble extensions/sockets is a HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CONVENIENCE
9) Strong friends or a transmission jack/jack stands ---> I modified my stock scissor jack...it was too short to use on a lifted X anyway
10) Brake parts cleaner
11) Shop rags/paper towels
12) Teflon tape for drain/fill plugs
13) Bearing grease
14) Hammer
15) Rubber mallet
16) Drain pan to catch diff fluid
17) Drive up ramps are a recommended convenience
18) Large bench vise to hold diff carrier. Otherwise you need to invent a way to brace the carrier to unbolt the ring gear.
19) Blue/Medium thread locker
20) 1/2" breaker bar to unbolt diff drain plugs
21) Angle grinder with grinding disk
22) New fluid
23) PB Blaster
24) Gloves/safety glasses
25) Feeler gagues

Nothing on here is uncommon to have in a house hold garage or at the neighborhood Auto Zone. I have been in my house for 3 months though, so my tool/equipment collection was still fairly small, which lead to me buying a ton of stuff. Lokka was straight forward except grinding the axle gear nut. Very easy to do. Have a plan to reinstall the diff though. I am fairly strong, but even with a hydraulic jack and stands, it was too awkward for me to push into place. The diff only goes in a certain way, so you need jack stands and two people, or a transmission jack to support this monster while lifting and pushing into place. It really is like a puzzle to figure out how the diff fits back into place.

I did get a shop quote me $500 + fluid cost to do the install, so I feel like I got the killer deal going the DIY route. Not very difficult either if you have decent tools and a full weekend. Plus, even if I spent extra money on the tools...I get to keep the tools after I am done, as opposed to throwing money at a shop. WIN-WIN if you ask me.


B) Intender: Don't bother with the diff drop. 3/8" of a drop. At the diff. As I mentioned, even with the diff drop, my CVs were binding by the lower shock mount and LCA from the suspension lift. To me, that is the limiting factor. Leave the diff alone. Drop your torsion bars 1/4" or 3/8"...little more rake, lot less time, lot less wear to ALL parts in the suspension and steering. Sell those bushings to some sucker on Craigslist or clubX. I literally believe the ONLY benefit I got from installing them was being able to coin the phrase "Lokked and Dropped" on message boards.
 
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Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
Hey Rob, how long would you say it took just to get the lokka in, not including dropping the diff and getting back in place, just pulling the diff apart sticking the lokka in and reassembling the diff.
 

xterror04

Site sponsor
Founding Member
Location
Carlisle, Iowa
Hey Rob, how long would you say it took just to get the lokka in, not including dropping the diff and getting back in place, just pulling the diff apart sticking the lokka in and reassembling the diff.

Honestly maybe an hour, it's super easy to just swap the carrier... Maybe give your self 2 just because you have to grind stuff down
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
I'd say plan for 2, just in case you run into issues....plus re-filling, replacing gasket, torqueing everything correctly, etc.

It is pretty easy with the right tools...make sure you use the right punch for the cross shaft pin...and have a pry bar to pop the carrier out of the bearing seats.

Also, read the update...there is a way to get the nut installed without grinding it.
 

Frogstar7055

Wheeling
Location
Jacksonville FL
Doing mine right now and am wondering if anybody else has run into this.
My front cross member along with 4 big bolts is tack welded to frame.
This is obviously from the factory.

Anyone else's like this?
Gonna just grind it loose but wondering if anyone has seen this or has any incite why it's like this.
 

04silverX

Bought an X
Location
Fort Mill SC
Yeah I can't tell you why they did that but they did every truck like that from the factory. I dont know why ou bolt then weld it in. Much easier if you just grind the welds out and drop front crossmember.
 

KBC

Bought an X
Location
BC
Can anyone confirm where the spacer goes for me? While pulling the carrier it popped out. There's a bearing cap and a washer on each side but I think the spacer goes on the passenger side. Correct?
Thanks for the great write up!
 

Ocala X

Test Drive
Location
Middleburg, FL
Can anyone confirm where the spacer goes for me? While pulling the carrier it popped out. There's a bearing cap and a washer on each side but I think the spacer goes on the passenger side. Correct?
Thanks for the great write up!
KBC, did you figure it out? I did mine yesterday and I kept it on the passenger side. I hope that was right, because I had a brief moment where I may have gotten them crossed up too. Everything seemed to mesh properly, but I have yet to do a road test.
 

KBC

Bought an X
Location
BC
That's the side I put it on too. Still haven't put the axle into the truck yet since work has gotten quite busy. Now I probably wont get it in until November. I have a pile of parts just waiting to go in... Let me know how it works for you.
 

robcarync

Sliders
Location
Raleigh, NC
I think passenger side was where I put it also. Looking into the diff housing, it was the left side, which is the passenger side as oriented when installed on the truck.
 

Ocala X

Test Drive
Location
Middleburg, FL
That's the side I put it on too. Still haven't put the axle into the truck yet since work has gotten quite busy. Now I probably wont get it in until November. I have a pile of parts just waiting to go in... Let me know how it works for you.
I tested it out today and everything seems fine.

Oh, and Rob...thanks again for the great write up, it helped a lot.
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Just a quick note as I noticed some confusion as to why the diff DROP part was being done:

1) It has zero to do with the locking of the diff...the diff can be locked w/o doing it.

2) It does not add droop.

3) Its done because the CV angles when drooped, if you have after market UCA, are more acute, and, put more stress on the drive train, which breaks things more easily. The diff drop lowers the diff closer to the cross member so that the CV angles are relieved, bringing the angles back to roughly OEM/a bit better than OEM ranges, when at full droop...increasing durability of the drive train. As the CV distances are short, a small drop relieves a lot of angle, so 5/8" or so makes enough of a difference to compensate for the added ~ 2" droop of the UCA.

4) As most people are taking the diff out anyway to do the lockers, if you want a diff drop, when messing with the diff anyway is simply a convenient time to do it. Its an OPTIONAL step that makes your rig tougher to break at full droop, when the drive train is the most stressed. Obviously, a locked diff is going to sometimes be working the drive train a bit harder, and anything you can do to make it more durable is not a bad idea.

Carry on.

:D
 
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TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Well put, TJ. It's just hard to see how such a small difference in the bushings makes such a difference at the wheels.


To get perspective, look at the small change in bumpstop gap and the amount of lift that goes with it.

The shorter the distance, the more of a change it makes proportionally.

We have really long front drive shafts and really long rear drive shafts....when we lift, the drivetrain angle hardly changes at all because the two points are so far apart.

If I lift a Jeep Wrangler, the front shaft is like a foot long hot dog in length...and, I have to change the engine mounts to tip the engine down at the t-case to relieve the drive train angle, or do other mods like a double cardan shaft, etc, to compensate for the angle change, etc....because its SHORT.

So, yeah, for a short distance, less than an inch at one end changes over 2" at the other end.

The other similar scenario is a pair of scissors....compare the gap at the pivoting/rivet end of the cutting blades with how far apart the tips of the cutting end are.

And so forth.

:D
 
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