Metzican's Dream off-road Teardrop Trailer

So over the past weekand a half I've been thinking how could I build a off-road teardrop trailer. There are a ton of information online about building teardrops. But most of them are for road use only. I work 12 hour shifts and right now I have been doing about 5 mins a day so lets just say I have had a ton of free time to think and be creative. This is what I have come up with as of now. By no means are these a final design. And with me moving within 2 months and then moving again within a year this won't happen for at least 1-2 years so sorry. Of course you can buy an amazing teardrop that is meant to be off-road it will cost you from 9-20k depending on if you just want a shell or everything possible.

I first started designing a trailer that was 8'x4' very easy to build since it would be the same size as a sheet of plywood. Then I realized I'm 6'6" and I want to be able to have a nice size kitchen on the back for my GF. Since she is all about cooking up amazing meals. Then I went to 10'Lx4'Hx4'w. Then I said **** it lets make it 10'Lx5'Hx4'w. The 10' long gives me a 2' kitchen, 7' sleeping area and a 1' storage area up front. with 5' high I can put shelves and cupboards on the inside without to many headaches. And the reason for 4' wide so it can be the same with as my Xterra and close to the same with as any future tow vehicle.

So first off here are some of the hand made drawing I've put together I am no way an artist but I don't have access to a 3D modeling software as of right now.













The following are the calculations to ensure I place the axle for the right tongue weight as the trailer is full and empty



Some need features I want to do.
-Full skid plate (will also help with the frame strength)
-Water tank built between floor and skid plate (Low cg)
-There are a bunch more that I will add later.

The following is a list of prices and locations of building supplies. Its not complete but pretty damn close. I know prices will change and new products will be out but it gives you a pretty good idea of the cost. For those who want to do there own the cheapest. Get a 4'x8' Harbor freight trailer and build a 4'x8' teardrop on top. you can do it for about 1500-2000 dollars for on road and about 500 more off-road.



the following is a list of links I used to help design mine.

>> http://www.teardroptrailers.us/tbuild.pdf
>>
>> http://www.trailerplans.com.au/plans/off-road-trailer/
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>> http://www.teardroptrailers.us/tbuild.pdf
>>
>> http://www.motorsport-tech.com/4DCGI/a_yearmakemodel.html
>>
>>
>> https://www.storesonlinepro.com/sto...2?sitecookie=bc34d2cfd348206f6215065b99ce945a
>>
>> http://www.etrailer.com/comparison.aspx?pc=ASR2KHDS03&pc2=A35RD545E
>>
>> http://timbren.com/axle-less/
>>
>> http://www.instructables.com/id/Teardrop-Trailer/#step0
>>
>> http://moby1trailers.com/moby1-xtr/

Reserve

Spare Parts List:
Drum w/bearing, race, studs, nuts
Bearing, race
3x Lug nuts
2x Drum Studs
2x Shackles
6x Shackle Bolts
2x Leaf Springs

Look I g forward to this build. I'd love to have a camping trailer like this.

Sent from over there...

Don't hold your breath. I will not be able to start building for at least a year. I just posted this up here so people could give ideas and get ideas if they want to build one.

So I it up quickly. Not perfect but better then my hand drawings.







Still need to draw up the kitchen and inside layout. Along with electrical and appliances.

Oh boy, I'm gonna be spending some time on those links...

I'd like something like the moby1 XTR I posted a link to in the CL thread. I'm going back and forth on making the sleeping area big enough for a queen or king. There would be my wife and I and our 2 year old sleeping in there which is why I'm thinking about a king. But in the future when he is older, I would like to have an RTT for him. A king bed would make it a lot wider though.
I'm planning on awnings on both sides that you can zip walls and a floor to so you have a place to get changed and a portapoty and maybe a shower on one side, and the other can be a covered area to sit with the walls off or on depending on weather.

KBC said:

Oh boy, I'm gonna be spending some time on those links...

I'd like something like the moby1 XTR I posted a link to in the CL thread. I'm going back and forth on making the sleeping area big enough for a queen or king. There would be my wife and I and our 2 year old sleeping in there which is why I'm thinking about a king. But in the future when he is older, I would like to have an RTT for him. A king bed would make it a lot wider though.
I'm planning on awnings on both sides that you can zip walls and a floor to so you have a place to get changed and a portapoty and maybe a shower on one side, and the other can be a covered area to sit with the walls off or on depending on weather.

Click to expand...

Just from my Tear drop research a lot of people with little ones put a bunk bed in them going across for the little one's. So depending on the width your planning. 4'-5.5' would be the length of that bed. Most people who have teardrops defiantly for off-road due to trail with have a queen or smaller.

My biggest issue is I'm 6'6" so a 8' trailer will not do. I'm looking at a 9' so I can do a 2'-2.5' deep kitchen. From all the research I've done. In my mind people don't utilize the interior storage space where you can store clothes. I don't want to have a duffle bag that i have to share bed space with or put in my vehicle every night.

I'm planning on a awning on both sides eventually but right away its not needed. I'm going to mount a hot water heater on the other side. I will do one of those pop up show/toilet tents. I'm also going to have a table that slides out of the kitchen area and attaches to the swing arm for a L shaped kitchen and the stove will sit on this.

The only way I would do a king bed would be to make it so the wheels are under the trailer instead of on the outsides, but that would likely make it too tall to fit in my garage door with a roof rack. Queen is probably what I'm going to go with.
I'm thinking of doing an airbag suspension just for the adjustability. If it sits a little high I can drop it to fit in the garage, or make it easier to get in and out of.
You mentioned registering, what are the laws like where you are? As far as I know I can register a trailer as homemade and declare a value for it and as long as I have receipts for materials I should be ok.

To obtain a title and license plate for a homemade trailer it will be necessary for you to contact your local Louisiana State Police Troop to arrange to have a physical inspection and VIN assigned to the trailer. Please take your paid receipts for the materials used to make the trailer or any other sufficient proof of ownership information with you. The LSP troop staff will provide information concerning the required safety equipment on trailers, required information for completing the serial number affidavit, and a listing of the related fees.

After the VIN is assigned, take the receipt given to you by the State Trooper plus your driver's license to a local Office of Motor Vehicles to have the trailer titled and registered. For additional information regarding the process and various fees involved please visit the Office of Motor Vehicles (OMV) website.

The big question is, Do I built the whole trailer or just the frame and put a deck on it before I register it. I've read that there is a state out east that you can register your trailer to online for cheap. Then just transfer the title since some states the fee is really high and registration is very difficult to do the paperwork is endless and you end up going into a big circle.

I just built a small teardrop style trailer...

They are a ton more work than you expect.. Ebay is great for sourcing camper doors and windows... I got some awesome deals for mine.

Unfortunately I sold mine before I ever even camped in it.. I learned a lot, never built a camper. I had $1700 into mine... sold it for $2700 plus an AR-15. building and selling it

I would do it again.. but I would do it out of a military trailer and keep it a bit smaller. Storing the thing is a pain in the ass and it takes up your garage for however long it takes you to build it.

You sound like you know what you want.. and know what you're doing. It's a tedious process and it takes a long time. Just make sure to overbudget stuff.. it always ends up costing more than you think. Your's is going to be especially expensive and time consuming... I would plan a year to build and I think with everything you want you should be able to keep it under 10K.

Also I would look at finding a cheap camper trailer and using the frame and axle... find one that's titled and you can upgrade what you want. I wouldn't put all that weight and money on a harbor freight frame... but that's just me. I like HF but not for everything. If you can find a 60's or 70's camper and just use the frame you will have a much sturdier frame to build on. The steel in the 60's and 70's is much more stout than china steel at HF. Especially since you want to drag it offroad. This is really only a good option if you can cut and weld steel... which I think you should know and be able to do before starting a project like this. I cut 2.5 ft off my frame and added some here and there.

Keep an eye out on Craigslist.. you can get junk tow-behind campers for damn near free... I got mine for $150 titled. I demo'd it and took everything but the frame to the dump. Actually I bought it and it had a whole bunch of cool extras.. just something you should consider...

Very cool.

Steeze said:

I just built a small teardrop style trailer...

They are a ton more work than you expect.. Ebay is great for sourcing camper doors and windows... I got some awesome deals for mine.

Unfortunately I sold mine before I ever even camped in it.. I learned a lot, never built a camper. I had $1700 into mine... sold it for $2700 plus an AR-15. building and selling it

I would do it again.. but I would do it out of a military trailer and keep it a bit smaller. Storing the thing is a pain in the ass and it takes up your garage for however long it takes you to build it.

You sound like you know what you want.. and know what you're doing. It's a tedious process and it takes a long time. Just make sure to overbudget stuff.. it always ends up costing more than you think. Your's is going to be especially expensive and time consuming... I would plan a year to build and I think with everything you want you should be able to keep it under 10K.

Also I would look at finding a cheap camper trailer and using the frame and axle... find one that's titled and you can upgrade what you want. I wouldn't put all that weight and money on a harbor freight frame... but that's just me. I like HF but not for everything. If you can find a 60's or 70's camper and just use the frame you will have a much sturdier frame to build on. The steel in the 60's and 70's is much more stout than china steel at HF. Especially since you want to drag it offroad. This is really only a good option if you can cut and weld steel... which I think you should know and be able to do before starting a project like this. I cut 2.5 ft off my frame and added some here and there.

Keep an eye out on Craigslist.. you can get junk tow-behind campers for damn near free... I got mine for $150 titled. I demo'd it and took everything but the frame to the dump. Actually I bought it and it had a whole bunch of cool extras.. just something you should consider...

Click to expand...

As you can see right now my pricing says $7500. Like you said I exspect more. My budget will be 10k. Along with this if you notice a lot of that budget comes from extras like awning, stove, fridge, etc. If I was going to buy one for the quality that I want to build and with all the accessories it cost me around 22-26k. So in my mind i'm starting way ahead.

I have been going back and fourth on the HB frame. You can get one for cheap and upgrade components then reinforce it. But in the end it will weight more for the reasons you said. I have been looking on Craigslist but have not had much luck. For the price of stuff I find I can build exactly what I want without having to demolish anything and then upgrade. Most campers down here are either 5th wheel or RV's. Its the hot humid south and everyone wants AC.

I use to be good at cutting and welding but I'm not going to lie. Its been a long time. But I have found a local welder that is amazing. He works for himself and does great work for little cost (cash is king). It also is not worth the cost/time of buying a welder then relearning. Since I'm planning on selling off everything before a trip. I also thought about getting a trailer made by one of the many local trailer fabricators down here. This way they can handle all the paper work and order all the larger components and have them shipped to them. Everything will be done to my specs too.

For the build of the camper I'm planning on 6 months. But I will give myself at least 9 to complete it. Once I'm done with my review and presentation for work. I will have more time. Back on a 14 day on, 14 day off work schedule. This gives me a lot of free time to accomplish this major build. There are also a few things I want to do to my vehicle before I say its "complete".

Awesome project, good luck with it and I'll keep an eye on your progress. I'd like to do this one day as well. I love my Coleman Pop-up, but it's not rugged at all, and had several features I don't use that just take up space.

Here is another great resource for looking up parts. I would probably not buy anything from them due to the prices but its great to look through to help with ideas.

http://www.orrorr.com/index.html

Kudos to you for taking on an off road trailer project, because you have actually taken the quantum leap of placing pen to paper, and then announced your plans.

Accountability! You can't run from it now. Lol!

Seriously, this is also a dream of mine, (off road trailer project), and I am sub'd and will be following.

I bet you have already taken a peek at Expedition Portal's trailer section for ideas...if not, go here:

Expedtion Portal Off Road Trailer Thread

Also, here is a teardrop specific thread that has some good info:

Teardrop Trailer Build
Good luck, and I will be following!

So today after about 50 phone calls. I finally think I found a place to build my teardrop trailer at (I don't have a garage). Tour is tomorrow. Its a storage facility with onsite bathrooms, car wash, waste disposal and they have lights and electricity in every storage compartment. They have no issue with me doing anything there besides welding. So then I went on the hunt for a costume trailer builder. Everyone I contacted said they don't do campers/rv's due to liability. OK that is weird to me but ok (as a TD builder told me, "I guess they don't trust there welds). So I have a few more leads to call tomorrow. I now a local welder, I will stop by as he is a Old Cajun and does not know what a sell phone is. I will probably talk to him for a few hours about the idea. Get a ruff price. Then decide if I want to go that route or buy a rolling chassis from one of the big boy TD builders. (in the process of getting quotes) Then its off to pick up my X with all the new gears in the rear!!!. Break in the gears is tomorrows mission during the afternoon. Drive for short distance and a verity of speed nicely then stop let the diff cool and repeat.

I just came to a realization. I think the adventure trailer teardrops and So-cal tear drops don't have insulation in the wall. I think they are just 1/2" hardwood plywood. By looking at the measurements there is only 1" between in and out width.

I would just insulate the interior by doing a quilted upholstery on the plywood. Keep it light and soft to the touch. Ever sit bolt upright in the middle of the night. Do that in a tear drop and you bang your head on something. Especially as tall as you are.

^^^ As I'm going over the design I keep questioning if insulation in the wall is necessary and I keep going back to it will make it stronger, and better to have then wish to have.

So today was a goo day. I went out and checked out a storage unit/work shop. They don't care what I do in there as long as its not 220v since they don't have the outlet. It looks pretty good, not perfect for it but will have to do. Some days will be a tight fit. Then I got a quote from a major playing in Teardrops for a frame. And I have to say it is where I was hoping to be. Still have to ask around but I don't think I can build it for that much cheaper. Then I stopped by a cajun welder I know and he was out on a run. So tomorrow may be better luck. I like how it is all coming together. My only fear is it seems quick. I don't want to rush the design because wants you cut its hard to glue.

I had mine all sketched out but can't seem to recall what I did with it... Custom leafs from local shop for one... And some sheet steel and 1/2" lexan sandwiched walls, primary use will be camping on hunting trips, I refuse to risk a stray bullet going into, let alone through my project. If I can compensate the weight, it should be .50bmg proof, bear proof, and otherwise secure, provided the cost doesn't break the plans. I'm banking about 10-12k on the project, without a lot of the "nice stuff" as I'm going utility instead of comfort...onboard comms however have been considered heavily and 4 corner landing legs... Preferably OBA driven piston style with a 1 button "retract" switch for hurry up and roll out moments.

I look forward to your progress!

So I have all my final drawing done. Its going to be 1/2 by ear and 1/2 by drawing since I know things will change. I still need to do the electrical plan for all outlets and lights. with charger and fuses. I've been reading up on charging the battery's on board by the vehicle and in the off road industry everyone uses a large wire along with a separate plug but in the large commercial camper trailer industry they only use the 7 plug to charge the battery. What do you guys think?

Meanwhile I'm still waiting on a trailer quote, But I signed the lease for my "shop" its more a tiny shed but it will have to do. It will be tight to work on things but it will do.

metzican said:

So I have all my final drawing done. Its going to be 1/2 by ear and 1/2 by drawing since I know things will change.

Click to expand...

That will work, but if I may, I'd urge you make that at least 80/20. Working on a drawing is something you can do any time, when you have time to really think it out. It will save you tons of time and headaches when you get to the real hands on work. Yes things will change, but so can drawings, adapt the design as you get more information. You can have a very good idea what to do if you research your materials ahead of time. Any accessories you want, get them now and measure them, draw them up, and use them to plan the trailer. Sometimes the manufacurers of products will give you design data to help you accommodate it, and a lot of the time it's on their websites for the taking.

The software is out there, free even, to completely plan a project before you ever tighten a bolt. It will take some effort to learn, but it could be worth it. The reason I'm recommending it, is this level of pre-planning is what separates a "built" project from one that is "designed." If you put the mental investment into a high level of planning, you spot problems early, can make better decisions on your materials and accessories, and your final product will have a more professional appearance. It will also be cheaper. Mistakes cost money, as does buying material you don't need, or find out you can't use.

On my roof rack I just did I planned by about 95% drawing, 5% by ear. It was a breeze to make, all I had to do was look at my drawing, it was like putting together Wal-mart furniture, except it was accurate. I only modified one dimension by 1/4" after the first test fit. The rest was mostly by the numbers, except a few areas where my chop saw cutting was not as accurate as my plans were, that I had to fudge in, but it was not a critical area.

Airmapper said:

That will work, but if I may, I'd urge you make that at least 80/20. Working on a drawing is something you can do any time, when you have time to really think it out. It will save you tons of time and headaches when you get to the real hands on work. Yes things will change, but so can drawings, adapt the design as you get more information. You can have a very good idea what to do if you research your materials ahead of time. Any accessories you want, get them now and measure them, draw them up, and use them to plan the trailer. Sometimes the manufacurers of products will give you design data to help you accommodate it, and a lot of the time it's on their websites for the taking.

The software is out there, free even, to completely plan a project before you ever tighten a bolt. It will take some effort to learn, but it could be worth it. The reason I'm recommending it, is this level of pre-planning is what separates a "built" project from one that is "designed." If you put the mental investment into a high level of planning, you spot problems early, can make better decisions on your materials and accessories, and your final product will have a more professional appearance. It will also be cheaper. Mistakes cost money, as does buying material you don't need, or find out you can't use.

On my roof rack I just did I planned by about 95% drawing, 5% by ear. It was a breeze to make, all I had to do was look at my drawing, it was like putting together Wal-mart furniture, except it was accurate. I only modified one dimension by 1/4" after the first test fit. The rest was mostly by the numbers, except a few areas where my chop saw cutting was not as accurate as my plans were, that I had to fudge in, but it was not a critical area.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the advice. I probably did not explain it very well. The general design is 98% drawn up. As being a mechanical engineer and worked in the design area for a few years this is what I naturally do. And at this point the major appliances are already designed in for proper size. (fridge/freezer, Water tank, Water Pump, Batteries, Stove, Removable table, Electrical panel for all the switches and controls, Drop down TV w/dvd player). The aspect I still need to look into is the cabinet internals. Shelf sizes and drawers to fit everything nicely. Internal trim work (know type not length needed), direct wire path and needed length. Lenth of different seal (I know which ones just don't know length needed), cabinet hardware, Outside trim (know type not length needed), ect.

One thing I need to do is wait for my frame, which I still have to order. And take final measurements on it. I will be building the body off the frame then putting the frame underneath and attaching it. This is due to the fenders will be welded on and be in the way if I built it onto the trailer. So I will be measuring 5 times cutting once.

Well, the people who were going to build my frame fell through do to final pricing just not worth it. I have to finalize my drawings and give them to one good old boy and get a price quote. If it is good. Then I will have to order the custom axles myself, figure out the fenders, and everything myself vs an all contain packaged.

So since this frame will be raw metal. Do I spray bomb it myself with bed liner or frame paint. Or send it off to get PC??? hmmm

I'd avoid powder coat. If you scratch it you can't just touch it up.

So I ordered a few components tonight. Going to order the Axle Friday!! and Talk to the frame guy Friday.

Staying tuned, good luck man.

Well today was a great day. I went to work and gave my yearly review presentation and I killed it. What does this mean. I get a massive raise in the next two weeks that is in the healthy 5 figures. So my trailer is official on its way. I stopped by my cajun welder buddy gave him the frame schematics and he is going to check on material price and give me a call tomorrow. Guarantee I will tell him to go ahead and order it and start welding. He said one week lead time. I stopped by a local trailer place and ordered my custom axle, electic brakes, hubs... and 7 wire harness, and 2" receivers (front and back). (3 week lead time on the axle). Monday I'm headed back offshore 1 week early for 2 weeks with my new promotions so more money!!! So by the time I get back in. I will have the frame built. full suspension. I will just have to wait a week to get the axle and then wire up the trailer. mount the axle then go to the state police and get it all checked out for registration (utility trailer).

I also got these in today.

Wheel adapters 6 on 5.5 to 6 on 4.5. There is no such thing as 6 on 4.5 hubs. No big deal from now on I can adapt or space out to match my tow vehicle wheels. Also got in my break controller. P3 have not used one yet but everyone says they are great. I also got the Nissan wiring harness for it to hook it up that much easier. Now I need to figure out where to put it with everything else i have in my vehicle. HMMMMM

Also for reference of size there is the end of the pull pal where you attach the shackle.

So right after I got home and I opened the above package. The following showed up on my doorstep.

LED tail lights. Also some Jacks this way I can level my trailer but these are removable!!! one per rear corner and tongue jack. All with side cranks to ensure ease of lifting without things getting in the way!!. Hopefully I might have enough lift to change a tire if needed. All are easily removable so they don't hit anything on the trail. Pull and store.

Looking forward to this build

I had a hard decision to make earlier this week. It was either move forward with this build and start putting my money where my mouth is or the Ex tried to come back into my life and I should of put this on hold if that was the case.

so, you're gonna have the trailer, and the ex stayed an ex, right?

I went ahead and ordered 2.5k worth of stuff.

Lol that's awesome.

Awesome news on the promotion and raise, Metz! Congrats!

So I got my wheels in today. then I realized I ordered the wrong ****ing ones!!! I got 6 on 5.5 which would fit right on my axle but my axle is designed for a minimium of 1" spacers on it for the wheels to be far apart enough from the body. So i now either need new wheel spacers and go that route or return these and order the right one's. GRRRR

What tires should I get for the trailer. Lets be realistic. I don't need high end tires for the trailer. I will have a vehicle spare and a trailer spare. Along with this if I cut 2 vehicle tires i can swap them and do a weird group on the trailer and run two different tires on the vehicle (front vs back) until I locate more tires.

metzican said:

What tires should I get for the trailer. Lets be realistic. I don't need high end tires for the trailer. I will have a vehicle spare and a trailer spare. Along with this if I cut 2 vehicle tires i can swap them and do a weird group on the trailer and run two different tires on the vehicle (front vs back) until I locate more tires.

Click to expand...

I'd probably throw an inexpensive highway tire on it, since you're not worried about them matching.

I was thinking treadwright's but that is a good point. As long as the tires are close to the same diameter it won't affect anything short distance if something happens.