The Great Post Whore Society 4 - dead men tell no tales

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Tay-Lo

I'm the king of junk food!
Location
Upstate SC
Had to get on a screwed up sleep schedule for work....went in early this morning hoping for 4 hours max......yeah 11 hours later I finally left

Sent from my pocket computer
 

NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
Deeb, that'd be great.

I'll throw a pic up later of the lights' wires/pigtails for more guidance. The soldering and wrapping part is easy, it's knowing what to do with the connections that stumps me.
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
That sounds delicious. I'm going to be reheating frozen corn dogs when the baby gets up next time.

/that does not sound delicious
//but it does sound adequate

14 years later and I still cannot stand the idea of eating corn dogs. Working at a theme park can do that to ya.
 

bottobro

I'm a pretty girl!
Supporting Member
Location
Long Island NY
Found my winter project...he he he
7a2267c90ed4ae39e29fa0d769f5e39c.jpg


Straight off a Taurus
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
Stray pics (guilde) of me soldering up the Zombie Lights... Note: I'm not the best in the world, but my joints hold. Usually.

1) Strip wire about 1/2-3/4 inch off the end of the wires and place a length of shrink wrap over one of the ends. You'll need at least a 3/16" longer piece than the stripped portion. Moar doesn't hurt (usually). The biggest thing is have enough exposed wire that you can work with it.

2) Twist the wires together so when soldered they will appear as one continuous wire.
2-twist.jpg


3) Solder the wires
3-solder.jpg

I recommend a pencil style for this; the guns tend to get too hot for this kind of work, but if that's what you have, feel free to give it a shot. Melt a little bit of solder onto the end of the tip first, as this promotes heat flow. Then, place the tip on one side of the exposed wires to start heating them up. After a few seconds, apply solder to the wire (not the iron) from the opposite side of the iron. This allows the heat of the wire to melt the solder, not the iron itself and creates a better joint.

4) Slide the shrink over the joint. You should have no exposed metal. If you do, unsolder and get a longer piece of shrink.
4-slide.jpg


5) Apply heat to the shrink wrap to melt it to the wire. A lighter will work, as long as you keep it moving, and a hair dryer on high can work as well. Best is an actual heat gun from the hardware store or one from a craft store.
5-shrink.jpg


If you need/want to have three wires coming together, then you twist those together first, then join them to the 3rd wire. The final run will look like a 'Y'
pairing.jpg

I had these two run together and they were soldered like that to the connector.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Deeb, trick I've learned for straight soldering connections. Take the solder and wrap the junction with it. Have a brick, or non flammable surface to work on. Take the connection and press it on to the brick using the soldering iron. It works awesome n
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
No worries. I'll likely be MIA these next few weeks as ill be a customer sites. Don't whore as much as I should when I'm not at home.
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
I saved last weekend to do my timing belt, but my nephew got cancer and I spent it at the hospital with him instead...then I reserved this weekend, but was sick Saturday, and woke late Sunday ~ noon, so started the t-belt on Sunday about then.

I usually take ~ a full weekend to do one (Water pump, etc), so, knew I would not finish before dark, but borrowed a car to use to buy time. This is my first time doing a belt on the 2004 ( I did the 2001 4x), and its my first time doing one on an automatic tranny X.

I hope the impact gun can break the crank shaft free w/o rotating the engine....I have all my marks lined up perfectly right now at least.

:D

Wish me luck!
 
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