Engine heating up at 65+

TheRenderJunkie

Test Drive
Location
Chicagoland, IL
Hello,


(2000 XE ~145 miles, stock with skids)


Could adding a full set of shrock-work skids cause over heating to the engine? I've noticed my engine temperature gauge slowing rising while cruising down the highway at speeds 65 + in the last week. If I blast the heat at full it will quickly return to the normal temperature. Slowing down kinda works but not as quickly.


I'm trying to figure out what's causing it. Here's more information on my experience.


A couple of weeks ago I got the timing belt w/ water pump and t-stat replaced. Engine ran great afterward. In the same week I mounted a full set of shrock-work skids. Then took a trip up to Michigan for Easter, no problems. The temperature outside was around 40 degrees. Last weekend I drove home to get packed for the Spring Fling and noticed the engine temperature slowing rising after about an hour on the highway. I kicked on the heat full-blast, after it rose over 3/4 on the gauge. Went down in less that 5min. Had no problems going to the event the next evening. Coming back Sunday it started to rise after about an hour highway driving. The weather was up in the 50-60s during the day.


I've taken off the skids and put the factory ones back on to test the drive to work tomorrow on the highway. Any ideas on what could be causing the rise in heat?


Thank you for any help or direction you could give me.
 

Muadeeb

Nissan al Gaib
Admin
Location
Dallas
Does it do fine while idling? I'd say fan clutch. Had one go out on me where at <30 it was cool, but would overheat if I got above 40
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Check it against the OBD port temp reading when the dash gauge says you're too hot....it uses a different, more reliable, sensor.

I never saw a problem with either Skid-Row or Shrockworks skids, so, it should not be that.

As it occurs at speed, when the fan is typically declutched and only wind is going through the fins....either the fins themselves can be clogged, or, you have old or too el cheapo hoses, so the suction side is collapsing at higher speed....etc.

If the clutch is not working on the fan, the fan can fight the wind too, causing trouble.

The wrong heat range spark plugs sometimes are involved.

TOO MUCH anti-freeze in the anti-freeze/water ratio can do that too. If the radiator cap leaks and it can't hold pressure, it can overheat. If there's air in the system, it can over heat, and so forth.
And so forth.
 
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TheRenderJunkie

Test Drive
Location
Chicagoland, IL
Was the water pump done at the last timing belt change?

Yes, the machanic I took it too used the timing belt kit that comes with a new water pump.

Does it do fine while idling? I'd say fan clutch. Had one go out on me where at <30 it was cool, but would overheat if I got above 40

It doesn't rise above normal operating temps at idle. Haven't tried turning on the AC yet. I'll try taxing the engine after work today. And take a look at the fan clutch.

Check it against the OBD port temp reading when the dash gauge says you're too hot....it uses a different, more reliable, sensor.

I never saw a problem with either Skid-Row or Shrockworks skids, so, it should not be that.

As it occurs at speed, when the fan is typically declutched and only wind is going through the fins....either the fins themselves can be clogged, or, you have old or too el cheapo hoses, so the suction side is collapsing at higher speed....etc.

If the clutch is not working on the fan, the fan can fight the wind too, causing trouble.

The wrong heat range spark plugs sometimes are involved.

TOO MUCH anti-freeze in the anti-freeze/water ratio can do that too.

And so forth.

Thanks for the info! Any recommendations on what OBO-II reader to start looking for? I think you recommended Actrons on another forum. Are those good to use for taking readings on the highway?

The mechanic did a coolant flush while it was in for the timing belt, so I'd hope they got the ratios right. If the fan clutch is not the problem, would draining a little bit of the current mix and adding some distilled water be worth a try too?
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
If buying one now a days....I'd get the kind that uses bluetooth, so the reader/transponder plugs into the port, and you download an app for your phone, and you can see all the data on the phone.

I did that, and I think the total was maybe $30?

I used DashCommand as the download.
 
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TheRenderJunkie

Test Drive
Location
Chicagoland, IL
If buying one now a days....I'd get the kind that uses bluetooth, so the reader/transponder plugs into the port, and you download an app for your phone, and you can see all the data on the phone.


I did that, and I think the total was maybe $30?


I used DashCommand as the download.


Cool, I start looking into those then. Thanks!


If you're phone is iOS you need a wifi based OBD reader. If you're android, then get a Bluetooth one.


Thanks for the heads-up!


Also might want to make sure that there is no air in the system. If the mechanic didnt get the air out after the flush it can cause problems.


I was wondering if this might be the case too. I'll give it a try this weekend.
 

TheRenderJunkie

Test Drive
Location
Chicagoland, IL
Wanted to update this thread...


I ended up taking it back the same mechanic as I didn't have the rights parts to do the burp myself. They did a full check and said everything looked good except for radiator which was covered/clogged in mud. I spent some time cleaning the radiator yesterday and haven't noticed any rise in temperature yet. The true test will be once it starts hitting above the 60s up here. *fingers crossed*


Thank you everyone for the help!
 

TheRenderJunkie

Test Drive
Location
Chicagoland, IL
I feel obligated to update this thread as the root issue has been found. It turned out the be cracked radiator at the end of the day. My guess is a micro crack that got worse over time. I didn't notice it was leaking until I was letting the engine warm up after changing the oil.

As a precaution, the mechanic did a leak down test and confirmed everything looked alright the engine gaskets. I had them drop in a new SC radiator with new hoses. The X runs a lot cooler now!


You don't have a 10mm socket? If not you should get one. 90% of the bolts on the entire truck are 10mm.
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif]Thanks for the heads-up! I do have a 10mm socket. Spent a few weekends burping and bleeding before I noticed the leak. :\[/FONT]
 
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