Gearing questions

Cptpackrat

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
I have a 2001 X with VG33 auto trans. Im currently on 32" tires looking to move up to 34s or 35s. Ive heard once you do move to 35s you will need gearing to keep power. I dont mind spending the money and replacing the gearing is easy enough. What I dont know is all about ratios. What would be my best bet? How do I identify what gearing I currently have?
 
thecoalition

thecoalition

Call me Daddy
Location
Richmond, Va
Im not a gen1 guy but I believe that all gen 1s have the same diffs, it's only the gearing that is different. Hang out and wait for one of the Gen1 dudes to pop in here.
 
TheFauxFox

TheFauxFox

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Huntsville, AL
thecoalition said:
Im not a gen1 guy but I believe that all gen 1s have the same diffs, it's only the gearing that is different. Hang out and wait for one of the Gen1 dudes to pop in here.
Click to expand...

Pretty much. The only variation, in the US anyway, was the LSD in some H233b.

You can get gears from RuggedRocks.
 
granitex

granitex

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
Columbus OH
your choices are 4.6, 4.9 and 5.15, if you are going to run 35 or larger you will want to run 5.15. mathmatically, they are a little lower that you would be from the factory, but remember all of the additional mass in the new tires that you have to contend with.
 
T

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
If the 2001 came from the factory on 29's (A lot did for example), a 35 would be ~ 20% more in diameter.

Going from a 4.6 to a 5.15 is only a ~ 12% increase.

If you mean from a 32 to a 35, that's ~ a 9% increase.


So, if you want to get back to FACTORY gearing, you'd need ~ 20% lower gears for the diffs, and if you want to get back to what its like on 32's, ~ 9%, etc.


As mentioned by Granite, the larger tires have MUCH higher rolling resistance, so, you need more torque just to compensate for how much harder it is to roll the tires.

The lower the gearing, especially off road...the higher your RPM can be in any given gear. The rpm is typically too low to have enough engine torque if the tires are too tall for the gearing.

The lower t-case gears, such as Casper is selling right now, would really help with that off road at least.

:D
 
Cptpackrat

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
TJTJ, so really I should be looking to gear the rear end to 5.14 and the transfer case to lower gearing to keep torque? I would have to gear the front end as well to 5.14 or would it be ok on stock ratio 4.6? I really dont understand gearing and dont have alot of experience with it
 
01XterraPhilly

01XterraPhilly

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Conshohocken, PA
most 1st gens have the HG46 or 4.6 gears. If you go to 33's 5.13 gears will get you closer to the stock ratio. Personally I want to get 5.13s because A) more gearing for a low power engine is good and B) Same price as the 4.9s...its kinda like gettting 32s or 33s. Not much difference in price, might as well just get the bigger of the two.
 
P

Planetcat

Test Drive
Location
Northern California
There's really not much to noodle over. You're getting 34 or 35" tires, you need to regear the diffs and your only option is 5.15:1 ratio. Even if you have the 4.6, I'd still jump past the 4.9's and get the 5.15 gears. You might as well throw a locker in one or both axles while you're in there. Parts only cost: gears, $1k, one locker, $1k, transfer case gear reduction, $1k. Geeze, it adds up fast.:rawr:
 
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K

KBC

Bought an X
Location
BC
Cptpackrat said:
I would have to gear the front end as well to 5.14 or would it be ok on stock ratio 4.6? I really dont understand gearing and dont have alot of experience with it
Click to expand...

You need to re-gear both diffs at the same time if you want to put it in 4x4. If not your wheels won't turn at the same speed.
 
K

KBC

Bought an X
Location
BC
If you have an automatic transmission, the transfer case gears should be at the bottom of your list of things to re-gear.
 
01XterraPhilly

01XterraPhilly

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Conshohocken, PA
Planetcat said:
There's really not much to noodle over. You're getting 34 or 35" tires, you need to regear the diffs and your only option is 5.15:1 ratio. Even if you have the 4.6, I'd still jump past the 4.9's and get the 5.15 gears. You might as well throw a locker in one or both axles while you're in there. Parts only cost: gears, $1k, one locker, $1k, transfer case gear reduction, $1k. Geeze, it adds up fast.:rawr:
Click to expand...

unless you're planning on SAS'ing you most likely wont be fitting 34s or 35s...fact of life. Really what it boils down to is what you primarily use the truck for. Is this your DD and you want 33's but want the mpgs back to somewhat stock? Regear to 5.13s. Do you plan to wheel like a mofo and do rocks and ledges like moab and have it be your DD? Regear and Lockers...start with a Lokka auto locker and then (or do at the same time) ARB Air locker. That setup is going to be close to $2500 (gears and lockers). If you want just a bad Azz mofo that you dont DD...Lockers galore and rock crawler gears which will still run you $2500. If youre getting to the point where its a rock crawler just SAS at the same time and make it that bad azz rock crawler but throw just 5.77s or something ridiculous in there.
 
TheFauxFox

TheFauxFox

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Huntsville, AL
xterror04 said:
Going to have to disagree with this one seeing as there's several rigs out there still running fairly stock suspension with 35 it just is all him about how much sheet-metal you want to cut
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2x.

Its also less hassle than SASing. Ask the few who have or in the process.
 
D

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
TheFauxFox said:
2x.

Its also less hassle than SASing. Ask the few who have or in the process.
Click to expand...

So what are you getting at ??? Hehehee


Yeah gears should be first if you plan on keeping the IFS. But like someone else posted what's you goal here?
If you want a good driving yet good off road rig I'd do 33s with the 3" SL and 5:14 gearing with a rear only locker..
That set up will let you keep up with all your buddies in the trails

The next thing to think of is do you over build this rig. If you over build then trails that are fun now will not be as much fun.. So the amount of risk or damage will increase to enjoy the same amount of fun you may currently have.
 
Cptpackrat

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
Sheetmetal cutting is fine, im a fabricator by trade so its not a big deal for me to cut my rig up. As far as having fun, I want a truck that will go about anywhere but still a reliable daily rig. I want to keep IFS for now, but SAS is in the planning but many years down the road. If I tear into the diffs I will more than likely throw lockers both front and rear on seperate switches so I can turn on and off as needed. I had a blast at GONE and was able to keep up with many of the other 33" rigs with lockers. Just ished I had at least the rear locked.
 
Prime

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
I'm running 33s and 4.90s on a manual transmission and I think it drives great. If I ever get around to the SAS I'm going to 35s & 5.13s.
 
T

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Once you SAS, the ratios available for the DIFF in your SAS are what dictate what the rear needs to match.

A 1st gen on 35's can roll over most of what's going to be in the way if wheeling with other X's...but you will be downshifting like crazy on steep hills on the way to the off roading place (Unless the ground is flat where you are, etc...).

5.13's for example (An available F/R ratio for a stock diff'd X) compensate for 33's fine, but, for 35's...you're still puffing up hills....not as bad as if the 4.6's were still in there of course. :)


If you have an auto, and are counting on your torque converter to let you crawl slowly despite the taller tire's effective taller gearing impact...a cooler for the system is a good idea, as all that slippage makes it get very very hot.

A low range t-case ~ doubles the engine RPM at any given speed, so the converter doesn't have to slip as much, etc...and makes your idle speed closer to what you want to be able to slow down to for technical sections.

If there's no technical sections, and stock speeds + Taller gearing is OK, you probably don't need the lockers or 35's either in rocks...but in mud for example they'll still kick serious ass....and the t-case gears don't need to be that low.
 
Cptpackrat

Cptpackrat

Bumpers Installed
Location
Gillette WY
TJTJ, as far as torque converter cooling, what do you mean? I do have a secondary transmission cooler. Most of my wheeling is rocky stuff and dirt roads.
 
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