3 leaf AAL question
- Thread starter USN X
- Start date
- Location
- Columbus OH
use them all but the overload, at least I would, I now have four of them taking up space in the garage.
Some people like to keep them, I just kept hitting them on rocks so they now live in the floor.
Some people like to keep them, I just kept hitting them on rocks so they now live in the floor.
@granitex thanks for the input! Those are the types of answers I'm looking for, would it really make much of a difference with or without it installed?
And obviously the new leafs I got are going to go over the old ones using just the longer u bolts, is that correct?
And obviously the new leafs I got are going to go over the old ones using just the longer u bolts, is that correct?
With the OL leaf still on, the U-Bolts need to be an inch longer...but, you should ditch the OL Leaves when you do the AAL because they act like road graders off road, and are always in the way, plus, the AAL is adding stiffness, so you don't really need the OL leaf any more anyway.
Getting rid of the OL also adds about an inch of droop, because it essentially raises the lower shock mount by about an inch....so the same shock can now allow more reach without more travel.
You never re-use axle U-Bolts anyway...so, get new ones.
Getting rid of the OL also adds about an inch of droop, because it essentially raises the lower shock mount by about an inch....so the same shock can now allow more reach without more travel.
You never re-use axle U-Bolts anyway...so, get new ones.
LOL
That's a trick question.
It depends on how accurately you perceive it.
Its not hard if you understand how it all works.....as then it all makes sense and you'd know what you're doing.
If you think of you using a wrench, literally...and how you put the wrench on a bolt, and turn it until your arm can't go farther, take the wrench off, reposition it to turn again, and turn some more...that's an important concept.
The t-bar acts like a spring. Instead of bending into a bowed or unbowed shape like a leaf pack, or getting longer/shorter like a coil spring, it twists,
The difference, from say a twizzler, is that like other "springs", it springs back.
So, it supports the weight of the truck's font end...and, that weight twists the bar to a point. As you go over bumps, road undulations, etc, the t-bar twists more as the tires rise, and untwists as the tires fall.
To raise the truck, all you are doing is using the t-bar's adjuster anchor (The one in the cross member about under the front seats...) to ROTATE the bar to a new position, just like the wrench rotates the bolt.
The OTHER end of the bar is in your lower control arm (LCA). ROTATING the bar so that the LCA is pushed down more, raises the ride height. The bar still support the same weight, just from a new starting point....so its not "Pushed down harder" etc...its the same, just starting from a new point, just like your wrench started to turn the bolt again from a new point.
I do recommend actually removing the bars from both the LCA and adjuster anchors, so you can lovingly slather the splined ends with anti-seize compound....and also the threads of the adjuster bolts, etc.
The main reasons for this are as follows:
1) YOU get to make sure the splined ends are fully inserted into the splined anchors.
2) You know that if you ever need to mess with them again, they will be SOOOO much easier to work with, as all the moving parts will actually be ABLE to move.
3) Adjustments will be easier (see #2)
Also, before starting, like at least a WEEK before starting, spray everything you can think of under there with PB Blaster (NOT WD-40). Spray every day/every other day if possible, as you want to have time to dissolve the rust welds on the splined and threaded parts.
THAT both forces you to look hard at all the parts, so you are familiar with them by the time you actually start wrenching...and, it saves hours of drudgery trying to break rust welds/stripping bolts, etc.
Same goes for the butt end of the lift too btw.
The above prep work is the difference between a PML taking ~ 1.5 hr and all day.
Intender
Wheeling
- Location
- Lewisville NC
The torsion bars adjustments sound a lot worse than they are. The only thing that is really hard about it is if your adjuster ends up burried or sticking out and you have to pull the whole thing apart and do it again. Also if you pull them out make sure you mark them so you know which side they came off of and which way goes to the front.
Good point.
Once used, the bars take a set, and, I use a sharpie to mark the front/rear and driver or P side the bar was from originally.
As I always recommend taking out the bars altogether anyway, to anti-seize the splines/anchors anyway, the above is especially relevant.
Look at the bar ends, sometimes, they are stamped/marked. Tape/decals before splines, or, stamp on end, are typical.
You could TRY the craigs list seller, but, if there's NO markings at all, he could not tell you which was which anyway.
LOL
Pot luck.
If they seem OK, leave'm
If they seem weird/different when braking or turning, swap'm.
robcarync
Sliders
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
I sold a torsion bar to someone online a while ago and mine had a small stamped arrow depicting the direction of twist. I seem to remember Nissan had 2 different part #s for L vs. R too.
As far as the direction of twist on the truck...it is kind of an abstract way to think about it...but the bar twists upwards with the LCA where it is anchored. So left side is clockwise and right side is counter clockwise.
As far as the direction of twist on the truck...it is kind of an abstract way to think about it...but the bar twists upwards with the LCA where it is anchored. So left side is clockwise and right side is counter clockwise.
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
slantyshanty
Bought an X
- Location
- 'Merica (DFW)
Granted this is almost 10 years ago now but I seem to remember the ends of the SAW TBs being painted. Like one was green and one was red. I don't remember what that means, but it's something else to look for and research if they are indeed painted.
ellisfamilyokc
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- OKC
My sway a way bars were marked from the factory.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Alright guys another question, so I finally finished the leaf install.
Now I'm not too sure if this is normal or not but I installed the springs on the shackles highest setting and the shocks appear to be maxed out, I tried jumping on the back but I mean I doubt that 190lbs is enough to do anything to the suspension with the added stiffness of new leaves.
Here is what it looks like right now as it sits.
Please let me know if I am doing anything wrong
Note: I still have to crank the torsion bars to level out the lift lol haven't gotten around to it just yet
Now I'm not too sure if this is normal or not but I installed the springs on the shackles highest setting and the shocks appear to be maxed out, I tried jumping on the back but I mean I doubt that 190lbs is enough to do anything to the suspension with the added stiffness of new leaves.
Here is what it looks like right now as it sits.
Please let me know if I am doing anything wrong
Note: I still have to crank the torsion bars to level out the lift lol haven't gotten around to it just yet
Intender
Wheeling
- Location
- Lewisville NC
It wil settle a bit as you drive it. Make sure you cut off those u bolts before you go offroad.
Intender
Wheeling
- Location
- Lewisville NC
Mine probably settled about an inch or so over the first month. Throw some weight in the back to speed it up.
1) When you raise the front, it transfers weight to the rear, which will help to lower the rear more/settle it.
2) If those are shocks for the 3" lift, they should not be maxed at ride height....at ride height, what is your shock's eye to eye length? If the shock specs are correct, ~ 26" eye to eye is typical (at max extension). If you are too close to that at ride height, the rear is too high (No down-travel left, etc).
2) If those are shocks for the 3" lift, they should not be maxed at ride height....at ride height, what is your shock's eye to eye length? If the shock specs are correct, ~ 26" eye to eye is typical (at max extension). If you are too close to that at ride height, the rear is too high (No down-travel left, etc).
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robcarync
Sliders
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
You have a 3" AAL pack...AND the adjustable shackles. If you max out those shackles...you have 2+ inches of lift....ON TOP of the 3" of lift from the leaf springs....or 5" of total lift.
You will never match the front end with that. That is probably why you don't have much room to extend the shocks.
You either need to use the revolver shackles or drop the adjustables down quite a bit and cut off the over hanging holes if you plan on keeping the AAL.
Or you can ditch the AAL and use the maxed out shackle by itself.
I rock the adjustable shackles with stock spring pack in the rear, and UCAs in the front.
You will never match the front end with that. That is probably why you don't have much room to extend the shocks.
You either need to use the revolver shackles or drop the adjustables down quite a bit and cut off the over hanging holes if you plan on keeping the AAL.
Or you can ditch the AAL and use the maxed out shackle by itself.
I rock the adjustable shackles with stock spring pack in the rear, and UCAs in the front.
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Hahah yeah I figured that was not normal, thanks for he help guys!
I have already installed the control arms just have to finish messing with the t bars. Okay so definitely lower the shackles some, and is it absolutely necessary to cut off the shackles??
Dang that's my fault for ordering those, for some reason I bought those thinking they were the revolvers, than again I had only barely been introduced to the offroad world and new to the xterras so I ordered the first thing I seen.
I have already installed the control arms just have to finish messing with the t bars. Okay so definitely lower the shackles some, and is it absolutely necessary to cut off the shackles??
Dang that's my fault for ordering those, for some reason I bought those thinking they were the revolvers, than again I had only barely been introduced to the offroad world and new to the xterras so I ordered the first thing I seen.
robcarync
Sliders
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
Revolver shackles are better for off road. If you do go off road and keep the adjustable shackles, you will definitely want to cut off the extra over hang because otherwise they will get caught up on rocks/logs, bumps, etc.
AAL lift springs increase the stiffness of the leaf pack, making it more difficult for the rear end to flex. Longer shackles add a little more flex. Revolver shackles add a lot more flex.
I think most people would recommend keeping the 3 leaf AAL and getting revolver shackles. Revolver shackles are pricey, though (~$240 or so). What I personally would do (and...what I did do on my truck) is to keep the stock leaf springs and just use the tall adjustable shackle. Longer shackle adds a little more flex, and stock leaf packs have a bit more flex than lifting leaves.
Remove the added leaf packs and sell them to get some money back. You already have the shackle...you already have the stock springs. No need to go back and purchase more parts if you have something that works now.
I am also biased...I was never a huge fan of stiffer leaf packs unless you tow stuff frequently. Stock springs flex decently and the maxed out adjustbale shackle has decent flex.
AAL lift springs increase the stiffness of the leaf pack, making it more difficult for the rear end to flex. Longer shackles add a little more flex. Revolver shackles add a lot more flex.
I think most people would recommend keeping the 3 leaf AAL and getting revolver shackles. Revolver shackles are pricey, though (~$240 or so). What I personally would do (and...what I did do on my truck) is to keep the stock leaf springs and just use the tall adjustable shackle. Longer shackle adds a little more flex, and stock leaf packs have a bit more flex than lifting leaves.
Remove the added leaf packs and sell them to get some money back. You already have the shackle...you already have the stock springs. No need to go back and purchase more parts if you have something that works now.
I am also biased...I was never a huge fan of stiffer leaf packs unless you tow stuff frequently. Stock springs flex decently and the maxed out adjustbale shackle has decent flex.
lbishop
Need Bigger Tires
- Location
- Polk County,TN
Revolver shackles don't give much lift, I got about 3/4 inch out of mine. So your gonna need an aal to get the rest of the height.
I opted for prgs 2 spring 2nd gen aal on my truck. Which probably doesn't flex as well as the 3 would. But none the less between the shackles and aal, my shocks are now the limiting factor. So now I'm at the point of trying to justify either shocks with more travel (already have 3 inch hd bilsteins) or going the route tj did and moving the shock mounts into a triangulated setup
I opted for prgs 2 spring 2nd gen aal on my truck. Which probably doesn't flex as well as the 3 would. But none the less between the shackles and aal, my shocks are now the limiting factor. So now I'm at the point of trying to justify either shocks with more travel (already have 3 inch hd bilsteins) or going the route tj did and moving the shock mounts into a triangulated setup
robcarync
Sliders
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
Adjustable shackles alone give you 2+ inches of lift. UCAs give you about 3" of lift in the front (adjustable to any height in that range using the torsion bars). You won't get a full 3" of lift in the back, but it allows you to control your nose down rake a bit more.
Don't think of it as "I need 3 inches of lift front and back"...look at it more as..."3 inches is the max I can get in the front. What stance do I want to end up with?" and then lift the rear accordingly.
The Xterra has a nose down rake stock (about 1.5"). Mine had 2+ inches of rake, so I lifted the front 3 inches, rear 2.125 inches, and reduce my rake by about an inch.
If you have a 1.5" rake nose being further down...you can add 3 inches to the front with UCAs and adjustments. Then you can add 3" to the rear with add a leaf packs. Throw on revolver shackles, which give you about 0.75" of lift, and you have increased your rake by 0.75".
You have PLENTY of options for lifting the rear.
Don't think of it as "I need 3 inches of lift front and back"...look at it more as..."3 inches is the max I can get in the front. What stance do I want to end up with?" and then lift the rear accordingly.
The Xterra has a nose down rake stock (about 1.5"). Mine had 2+ inches of rake, so I lifted the front 3 inches, rear 2.125 inches, and reduce my rake by about an inch.
If you have a 1.5" rake nose being further down...you can add 3 inches to the front with UCAs and adjustments. Then you can add 3" to the rear with add a leaf packs. Throw on revolver shackles, which give you about 0.75" of lift, and you have increased your rake by 0.75".
You have PLENTY of options for lifting the rear.
schmidt1894
Test Drive
- Location
- Corpus Christi Texas
Where did you get the U-Bolts for the AAL?? i'm trying to find some and cannot find them anywhere
That was not assuming the adjustable shackles at max length though. The AAL are supposed to give 1.5" of lift, and, a 6" shackle another 1.5" of lift. AC, in its inimitable fashion, changed the specs over time, so their shackles got longer and their AAL got stiffer...but, not in a reliable way that allowed solid planning.
AAL have ALWAYS been somewhat variable in actual lift of course, as everyone's rig weight and degree of OEM pack wear come into play, added to the variation in support between random sets of AAL, etc...and it was always a crap shoot compared to shackles.