Getting ready to do maintenance....

[Twisties]

I got my 2011 Pro-4X a few weeks ago without any maintenance history. 110k miles. Been using the forum, watching videos and downloaded owner's manual and ordering supplies to do some work. I've got fluids, crush washers and supplies for engine oil and filter, atf, transfer case, front differential, rear differential, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid and spark plug replacement. All

I have a few basic questions that perhaps ya'll can help out with.

1. I'm thinking I will put the vehicle up on 4 jack stands for all of this. Haggertys guide suggests checking on a forum for jacking and jack stand points, since owner's manuals are really just thinking about getting one wheel off the ground for a tire change. Any thought's on where to jack from and where to place stands?

2. Coolant change. Video I found suggested doing repeated changes at the radiator drain to get it all worked through. I got 4 gallons and am planning to do this, but is there a better way?

3. Differentials. Haven't looked for a video yet. Do you just drain and then fill until fluid is coming out of the fill hole, or is there more to it?

4. Brake fluid.... I was searching for some speed bleeders and did not find any available. Do you have a source for those?

5. ATF. Video I saw said to collect and measure what comes out, then replace same amount. I'd like to check the level. Video shows where. Does it need to be hot to check, or cold, and anything else I should know about this?

6. Transfer case. I haven't looked for a video yet. But, any tips or instructions would be welcome.

Thanks!

 

[RikRong]

3. & 6. : All three are drain and fill until coming out of the fill plug hole. Make sure you loosen fill plugs, prior to removing drain plugs. Xfer case comes off the transmission, but it's not hard to find the fill/drain plugs.

4. Make sure you are properly bleeding the brakes. The Xterra doesn't get bled in the same sequence as you'd normally think. Here's what's described in the FSM: on the X, it's RR, LF, LR, RF

You also need a way to activate the ABS or do the bleed with the steps below:

"Bleeding Brake System EFS005GC
CAUTION:
While bleeding, monitor the master cylinder brake fluid level.
1. Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit) connector or battery negative cable.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear right bleed valve.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With brake pedal depressed and using a flare nut wrench or suitable tool, loosen the bleed valve to let air out, then tighten bleed valve immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten bleed valve to the specified torque. Refer to BR-22, "Components" (front disc brake), BR-28, "Components" (rear disc brake).
7. Perform steps 2 to 6 at each wheel, with master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front left, rear left, and front right bleed valve, in that order."

5. Measure how much you take out, but also measure with the dip stick after the trans is warmed up and has been through all gears.

 

[Twisties]

Thanks!

 

[TerryD]

Just in front of the transmission cross member where the frame bends in behind the front tires there are nice flat spots for stands and in the notch where the front of the leaf spring mount is welded to the frame. Do it this way all the time.

 

[Twisties]

Thanks!