eBirn
Test Drive
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
I need some second thoughts on this draining situation, I originally started a clutch project to replace the clutch and pressure plate and went through the whole process of taking out the transmission.
While I was back there I took off the flywheel and did the rear main seal. after that I bolted the flywheel back on to torque spec and put on the new LUK RepSet 06-069 clutch and pressure plate. Everything went smoothly with the installation process and again, everything was torqued down to factory specs. After finishing everything up and putting her back on the wheels I went to start her up and put her in gear but it would only go into gear with the engine off. When the engine was on it acted as if the clutch was not releasing and would not allow me to go into any gears from neutral.
Here’s what I’ve done:
-I replaced the gear oil with synchromesh.
-Replaced the master and slave cylinder with autozone parts
-replaced the pilot bearing
-replaced the throwout bearing
-put two washers in the the fork pivot arm so that there was no play in the fork from the slave cylinder
-the throwout bearing fork doesn’t look bent and mechanically everything looks good.
-made sure the clutch system is all mechanically installed PERFECTLY
I spent an entire day bleeding the clutch hydraulic line and even went to the shop and paid them to bleed it and tell me that I had to take it apart again because something else was wrong.
When I press the clutch pedal it feels very stiff like it’s bleed and there’s no longer play at the top of the pedal.
So I’ve taken this transmission out three times this week and I’m exhausted. I need this car fixed. Can anyone help me with more ideas?
And can someone measure how much their slave cylinder pushes out to disengage their clutch?
I’m really hoping it has nothing to do with the synchros in my transmission because I can’t afford a re-build kit after this entire experience.
I’ll include some pictures below
While I was back there I took off the flywheel and did the rear main seal. after that I bolted the flywheel back on to torque spec and put on the new LUK RepSet 06-069 clutch and pressure plate. Everything went smoothly with the installation process and again, everything was torqued down to factory specs. After finishing everything up and putting her back on the wheels I went to start her up and put her in gear but it would only go into gear with the engine off. When the engine was on it acted as if the clutch was not releasing and would not allow me to go into any gears from neutral.
Here’s what I’ve done:
-I replaced the gear oil with synchromesh.
-Replaced the master and slave cylinder with autozone parts
-replaced the pilot bearing
-replaced the throwout bearing
-put two washers in the the fork pivot arm so that there was no play in the fork from the slave cylinder
-the throwout bearing fork doesn’t look bent and mechanically everything looks good.
-made sure the clutch system is all mechanically installed PERFECTLY
I spent an entire day bleeding the clutch hydraulic line and even went to the shop and paid them to bleed it and tell me that I had to take it apart again because something else was wrong.
When I press the clutch pedal it feels very stiff like it’s bleed and there’s no longer play at the top of the pedal.
So I’ve taken this transmission out three times this week and I’m exhausted. I need this car fixed. Can anyone help me with more ideas?
And can someone measure how much their slave cylinder pushes out to disengage their clutch?
I’m really hoping it has nothing to do with the synchros in my transmission because I can’t afford a re-build kit after this entire experience.
I’ll include some pictures below
Last edited: