help me understand.....

ymbhonk

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Puyallup, WA
i bought the AC 2" for $250 and put 3" SL on. with revolver shackles in the rear, i plan on running 35s once my tires wear down but even with a 3" SL and 2" BL i will still have to trim the back of the front fenders about an inch due to rubbing at full lock. you might be able to get away with no trimming but at full stuff the tires would rub like no other, my 33s on a 3" SL rub a little at full stuff.
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
I had 33's on for a day, flexed it as hard as I could, and with the front sway bar on, I got no rub at all, I'm not too terribly worried for 33's...it sucks that there's not a size that's more of a 34 or something....I'm really trying to chase ground clearance with minimal modding, I want it to still LOOK and handle like it does now...
 

SMH

Bought an X
Ground clearance really doesn't play as big a role as you'd think until you get into the big gardens (which a mostly stock X on 33's trying to stay pretty doesn't have any business being in anyway), it's all about picking your lines
 

xterror04

Site sponsor
Founding Member
Location
Carlisle, Iowa
oh I understand the mechanics of a body lift, and how it works, I'd rather chop body than lift the body, I've built enough scale rock crawler rigs to know full well what happens when you start getting too much weight up high, I'd rather have less flex than have the weight of the body elevated without everything else. I'm pretty set on it, a 1" might be something I'd consider, but, anything bigger won't happen, and again, if I can compensate by trimming and not having to body lift, I'll do that. I'd rather order a new pair of front fenders to cut, get painted, and install so that it looks factory than install a body lift...not so sure how I'd approach the rear....but, on the rear, the SL **DOES** move the flex point downward so, a 2" lift in the rear *should* be enough...but, I'll leave that answer to the 2nd gen guys that've put 35's on their 2nd gens...

The body of an Xterra does not weigh a ton...lifting the body 2" will make for a higher cog, but not to the point of unsafe...Having less flex is alot worse then having a bit higher cog, I that means you are more prone to lifting a wheel off the ground thus making it more unstable... you could always put the lift on drive it for a month or two and take it off... Why are you so concerned with the body lift? Are you side scaling mountains?

I had 33's on for a day, flexed it as hard as I could, and with the front sway bar on, I got no rub at all, I'm not too terribly worried for 33's...it sucks that there's not a size that's more of a 34 or something....I'm really trying to chase ground clearance with minimal modding, I want it to still LOOK and handle like it does now...

There are 34's look at tires for 17" wheels you can get them
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
The body of an Xterra does not weigh a ton...lifting the body 2" will make for a higher cog, but not to the point of unsafe...Having less flex is alot worse then having a bit higher cog, I that means you are more prone to lifting a wheel off the ground thus making it more unstable... you could always put the lift on drive it for a month or two and take it off... Why are you so concerned with the body lift? Are you side scaling mountains?

well, I do have tendencies to sidehill and angle through things a bit, some trails it's simply the only way to do it.

as far as lifting a tire off the ground being a bad thing, it's not always...3wheeling instead of keeping all 4 in contact will actually keep you from rolling in some spots....if you were local I could show you a few out here....
 
R

ryandavenport

Guest
well, I do have tendencies to sidehill and angle through things a bit, some trails it's simply the only way to do it.

as far as lifting a tire off the ground being a bad thing, it's not always...3wheeling instead of keeping all 4 in contact will actually keep you from rolling in some spots....if you were local I could show you a few out here....

A stock Xterra will take around 45 degrees on a side hill, and that is about the rollover point. I would venture to say that you are nowhere close to 45 degrees, in fact, I would go as far to say that you aren't close to 30 degrees. Most people have no feeling whatsoever as to what angle their bodies are on, in other words, your internal inclinometer is about as accurate as the gas gauge.

For instance, and 8% grade highway (which feels like you are sitting on the dashboard when you go down it), is only 4.58 degrees. Even if a suspension lift and a body lift limits you to 30 degrees, you would never notice it, because most people ( I assume you too since you have a new truck) are not comfortable with anything around the limits of the truck. In other words, the truck can do more than the driver can most times.

Also, how does having a wheel off the ground keep you from rolling? Haha, I just am not understanding that.

I'm not trying to say that you are dumb for not wanting a body lift. I don't want one for my own reasons, but just understand that what a body lift does to the center of gravity is negligible unless you frequent the 45 degree side hill.
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
A stock Xterra will take around 45 degrees on a side hill, and that is about the rollover point. I would venture to say that you are nowhere close to 45 degrees, in fact, I would go as far to say that you aren't close to 30 degrees. Most people have no feeling whatsoever as to what angle their bodies are on, in other words, your internal inclinometer is about as accurate as the gas gauge.

that's why I use an aftermarket one....reads up to 40deg roll or pitch


because most people ( I assume you too since you have a new truck) are not comfortable with anything around the limits of the truck. In other words, the truck can do more than the driver can most times.

on that, I'll agree, I'm getting MUCH more comfortable with it every time I go out, because every time I push it a little farther with safety precautions in place to keep things from going to the junkyard.

Also, how does having a wheel off the ground keep you from rolling? Haha, I just am not understanding that.
well, one of the spots that I was on last time is a prime example, if my front left had stayed in contact with the ground, I'd have been leaning the body over the dropoff that was 20ish foot drop, it was a ledge that I couldn't have gotten the bumper over square so I put the right front on another rock and rode it up onto the ledge, leaving my left front free-floating for 8-10". now, if I had 3-4" of lift, I'd have attacked the ledge back toward solid ground, and not worried about it (or just a better approach angled bumper and good front skid) but, in stock config, getting up it safely required the tire float. Would the X have survived if the tire was in contact with the ground the whole way? maybe, but, adding loose rock, and putting it angled downhill on the edge of a dropoff while trying to sidehill up a ledge...you're right, that may have been an instance of "driver not comfortable pushing the vehicle to its limits" but, I doubt it. in addition, the tire being off the ground is partially responsible for being able to get it up onto the ledge, as the bumper would have been smashed if it hadn't.

I'm not trying to say that you are dumb for not wanting a body lift. I don't want one for my own reasons, but just understand that what a body lift does to the center of gravity is negligible unless you frequent the 45 degree side hill.
or, you like to corner.... ;) it's a DD and I'm not exactly the slowest driver.

body roll drives me NUTS, and a BL does amplify that feeling.
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
I dunno what degree I had it at, but, it teetered on the drivers side wheels, I turned the wheels "downhill" and reached out and pushed on the bank that I was dangerously close to at that point and she sat back down on the tires....so....whatever the "balance point" is, I'm pretty sure I've found it....I don't ever want to again either.
 

Deltaphi216

First Fill-Up (of many)
Founding Member
Location
STL
when you DO go to cut the fenders, make sure you turn the wheels while fully stuffed. You can make 35"s fit, but it will take a lot of trimming. the width of the tire is what kills you. the suspension lift only raises the truck up, not back. So the wider tire when turned can reach further in the body/fender.

you can piece a 2" body lift for less than $100 on a 2nd gen. I've done it already. it's sitting in a box in the garage.
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
I'm thinking when I get to the point of trimming I'll jack it all the way up, set it on jackstands, detach the coilover and sway bar completely, and use a jack to force the tire all the way up and start it up and rotate all the way to mark the contact points....

as far as it goes....would it look better to trim it to keep the same lines as stock so that they look the same, and then when I do the new bumper compensate as if it had the body lift so that the trim job will be nice and flush on the bumper lines?
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
that would kill me, I'll just have to make measurements and match it up and cut it to match....or, perhaps go in and once the one is done, mark the other by laying it ontop of it outside to outside, and then all will be happy and matching....
 

SMH

Bought an X
What's your common reference point to pull measurements from? I suppose you could do it if you wanted to get fancy with a compass and whatnot, but overlaying them would be easier. I eyeballed it tho and I can't tell a difference, is there one? Sure but no one has noticed anything yet.
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
What's your common reference point to pull measurements from?

The big straight ridge that is the outermost face of the fender.....measure points downward at set distances along the ridge, if they match, make a clean line connecting the dots and viola! Matched cuts.
 

SMH

Bought an X
I guess it's more of a try it for yourself kinda thing. If you want the advice, take it. If you don't, then don't take it. I don't care which way you do it
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
oh no, I appreciate the suggestions and am taking them into consideration, I was just wondering if you were meaning that one side might need cut considerably higher than the other....

if you have cut yours, what have you done to the edge to seal it and keep it from being crazy sharp?
 

SMH

Bought an X
I haven't done anything for the edge honestly. And no one side won't need to be noticeably different from the other, but these aren't precision machines by any means
 

dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
hmm....I'm torn on how to try to finish the edge, I would have to do something to keep it safer for the kiddo playing around the vehicle. don't want to risk her getting cut on it...maybe take some square tubing and weld it on the edge, like you were talking about tying onto the bumper....I dunno....
 

SMH

Bought an X
You have to make it structurally sound tho, 1" isn't strong to withstand a good smack but is sturdy enough to eff some stuff up in an accident. Same principal as a brush guard vs shrockworks
 
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SMH

Bought an X
I'd actually run the 2" horizontally, 1x2 run vertically wouldn't lend any more strength against a side hit than 1x on it's own. Maybe some thick walled 1.5" DOM would work
 
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dhyde79

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Amarillo, TX
Ooh, now that sir, is a good idea, not too bad looking either...

I don't think that the hood is that sexy but the fenders aren't too bad looking...I'd like to see them color matched on a rig, or a side by side comparison...
 

Ricel

Wheeling
Founding Member
Location
Rhode Island
Ever work on a boat. Fiberglass splinters (after it breaks) suck!

Yeah man. Great showboat, but of just tape and cut up a set from a j-yard then roll them over a little to clean them up. If your really set on this.

Plus if it's a jyard fender you always got your originals.
 
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