If you had the choice...

01XterraPhilly

01XterraPhilly

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Conshohocken, PA
Ok so I'm debating as what to do next as far as my next big mod. Here is what I'm contemplating:

1) SL for 3". I have the bilsteins 5100 reas and 4900 fronts. I can get UCAS for the 3" lift and/or springs, maybe AAL for 3". Will I need steering extensions and all that or what. I'm not sure

2) custom skids, I have sliders that I made but I want skids at some point. Thinking is, is that I can sacrifice lift for the skids and the protection

Or 3) 2"BL. I don't plan on running 33s yet but I will within the next few years. I'm thinking I should wait on these.

I'm on a limited budget so what do you guys think? I'm leaning towards the skids but I'm not sure
 
NismoFire

NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
1 and 2 are going to cost about the same. 3 is the cheapest option, and will cost ~$50. Sure, it's a big mod, but it's as cheap as the PML.

I vote for 2. Even if you have the ground clearance, you're always going to need protection.
 
2011XTERROR

2011XTERROR

Wheeling
Location
Texas
I vote skids. and, you may want to check with some Xperts if a body lift requires new steering components. from my understanding, body lifts do add some stress, but I just don't know how much is too much. I know that I have read in numerous spots that on the second gen, if you lift anything over 3" then the steering is really stressed, but idk how first gens are. I say SKIDS SKIDS!!!! as nismo said, you always need protection. in life, in the bedroom, and on your vehicle! ha
 
NismoFire

NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
Gen 1 2" BL doesn't require any steering modifications. Anything bigger than that, yes, although I can't think of anyone off the top of my head that has anything bigger than a 2" BL.
 
2011XTERROR

2011XTERROR

Wheeling
Location
Texas
sorry I thought that option one mentioned a 3" body lift. maybe it was a two inch with the UCAs that make it 3? idk if it works the same or not with the steering?
 
D

drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
2011XTERROR said:
I vote skids. and, you may want to check with some Xperts if a body lift requires new steering components. from my understanding, body lifts do add some stress, but I just don't know how much is too much. I know that I have read in numerous spots that on the second gen, if you lift anything over 3" then the steering is really stressed, but idk how first gens are. I say SKIDS SKIDS!!!! as nismo said, you always need protection. in life, in the bedroom, and on your vehicle! ha
Click to expand...

Epic fail here.. A body lift adds no more stress.. Nor does it require and new steering components.
 
NismoFire

NismoFire

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Smyrna, TN
2011XTERROR said:
sorry I thought that option one mentioned a 3" body lift. maybe it was a two inch with the UCAs that make it 3? idk if it works the same or not with the steering?
Click to expand...

The body lift itself is 2". The suspension lift (UCAs and PML) is ~3", for a total of 5" of lift.

PML- Poor Man's Lift. Gen 1s can do this, Gen 2s can't. We have Torsion Bars, your truck doesn't. If you crank the TBs and throw on some lift shackles on the leaf springs, you can achieve anywhere from 1-2" of lift just from the PML. Personally, I got 1.75" in the rear and 1.5" in the front. I like that factory rake.
 
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2011XTERROR

2011XTERROR

Wheeling
Location
Texas
NismoFire said:
The body lift itself is 2". The suspension lift (UCAs and PML) is ~3", for a total of 5" of lift. PML- Poor Man's Lift. Gen 1s can do this, Gen 2s can't. We have Torsion Bars, your truck doesn't. If you crank the TBs and throw on some lift shackles on the leaf springs, you can achieve anywhere from 1-2" of lift just from the PML. Personally, I got 1.75" in the rear and 1.5" in the front. I like that factory rake.
Click to expand...

okay my bad. thanks for the clarification.
 
CaptainMorgan_SOS

CaptainMorgan_SOS

Need Bigger Tires
Location
Alamogordo, NM
If you are on a tight budget, 3" SL and skids will probably be on the higher side since, unless you can find some used parts, you are looking at a minimum of $700-$800 for the lift and just a tad less for a full set of skids (this price does not include shipping prices). As for the BL, you can do that for about $60, but if you aren't doing it to get bigger tires, it won't help much with anything except for in the looks department and also getting your rocker panels another 2" away from the rocks, stumps, etc.

To do a cheaper lift, you can go with just UCAs, shocks, and AAL. If these were my choices, I would have a hard time deciding too. I would go ahead and throw option 3 out of the equation though if you don't plan on 33s for a while.
 
Roadwarrior

Roadwarrior

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
Location
Probably in class..
01XterraPhilly said:
1) SL for 3". I have the bilsteins 5100 reas and 4900 fronts. I can get UCAS for the 3" lift and/or springs, maybe AAL for 3". Will I need steering extensions and all that or what. I'm not sure
Click to expand...

Crank your torsion bars and buy an alignment, you can match the lift in the front with shackles in the rear or just let it be level. I would get the shackles (LINK) for the added flex in the rear and match the front lift.

01XterraPhilly said:
2) custom skids, I have sliders that I made but I want skids at some point. Thinking is, is that I can sacrifice lift for the skids and the protection
Click to expand...

I have wheeled without skids for some time, I think these are a nice option but with these are the most expensive option and probably bottom of my list. (you have the sliders.. so you are rather protected, if you are going to drag on something, put it on the slider)

01XterraPhilly said:
Or 3) 2"BL. I don't plan on running 33s yet but I will within the next few years. I'm thinking I should wait on these.
Click to expand...

If you aren't going to run 33's yet, wait. It will make your tires look small and is pointless (don't shoot me) but the main purpose of a BL is to clear space for 33's without cutting.




What is your projected budget? I know you said it is limited but I want to make sure we know what it is so we can set you up correctly.
 
01XterraPhilly

01XterraPhilly

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Conshohocken, PA
Yeah the BL is kinda not an option right now I just wanted to throw it out there. 33s will be in the plans just not currently. A 2" doesn't require a steering extension. The 3" does. I already have the shocks for a 3" lift as they fit stock. It's nice because my down travel is awesome now.

The skids I was gonna fab myself with the help of the guy that helped build my sliders. I figure it's pretty straight forward. Was going to use cardboard to map it out and make a template. I can get metal pretty cheap down in Delaware that's like 45 min from my house. I got two 20' pieces of 3/16" 2" square tubes for about $120. Pretty cheap for steel. So I'm figuring the sheet of 3/16" sheet won't be too bad.

The UCAs and AAL would be like $550 I think from either calmini or AC. I already have a PML so I have the 1.5" of lift. This is something I'm going to do eventually just didn't know if it would be practical to do it sooner than later. I didn't know if it would look weird if I did just the AAL or just the UCAs. I'm thinking it'd look stupid with one and not the other. AALs are more in reach at this point that UCAs.

I'm coming to the conclusion that skids are the way to go at this point. It'll save me more in the long run with not puncturing anything underneath
 
Alpine Spirit

Alpine Spirit

First Fill-Up (of many)
Founding Member
Location
South Park, CO
4th Option.... if you dont have rocker protection go that route and then if you think something will hit unerneath.... put a tire on it instead and ride the rails.
 
Intender

Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
The problem with building your own skids is that you have to have either bends or lips welded on to add strength to the plate. The plate on its own will help protect you, but your going to bend it pretty easily without some kind of lip for rigidity. The front plate wont have a lip and will most likely be the one that gets beat and bent all to hell.

But I agree that you should get skids. the bl is useless unless you get bigger tires. If you already have shackles and you get the 3 pack AAL from AC your rear is going to sit really really high. The 3 pack gave me 3" of lift by its self and even with the stock shackles I had a a noticable rake. single pack wont be as bad. Either way your going to be limited by something. The things that limit me the most with the bl, sl, 33's and sliders are traction since I dont have a locker installed, and fear of smacking my bottom since I only have a gas tank skid. If you are protected underneath and you are too low to clear and obstacle you just need to get yanked off whatever your skids landed on if you get stuck. if you are lifted and tall like I am and you try the same brave move and put a hole in your tc or engine, or oil pain your already out going to be out pretty much the cost of the skids, plus you broke on the trail which is never fun.
 
01XterraPhilly

01XterraPhilly

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Conshohocken, PA
Well I have a guy that welds so I'm not worried about the welding part. And I agree that skids are the way to go now. With the bilsteins I'm able to keep my wheels on the ground for traction when others might be limited. So yeah I think skids are in my future
 
Intender

Intender

Wheeling
Location
Lewisville NC
The problem is not so much the welding, though that part will be time consuming, its a matter of if he doesnt have the equipment to either bend or shear the metal its going to be a time consuming process cutting all the angles and then coming back afterwords and cutting all the little pieces needed to make the lips for the skids. Again you could make flat steel pieces with no lips and it would serve its purpose still, just not as strong and would have to be replaced at some point if you end up being the kind of person that beats the heck out of your skids. if your never end up really hitting them then they might hold up for the life of your truck without much trouble even without the lips.


Also just as a note, there is a 15% off groupbuy for schrock stuff going on till feb 12 or something like that. of course with schrock it could be next winter before you get your product but they are quality pieces.
 
Silver dude

Silver dude

Sliders
Founding Member
Location
machesney park IL
Made my own skids. I've wheeled many places. Even attended Gonemoab events and ran Ouray, CO last year. Honesty, with good driving I can't say I've even so much as scratched the skids. The stock underbody is pretty well protected alone. Installing skids was something I often regret as I'm cart around a 100+lbs of iron everyday to work or otherwise that I'm not really benifiting from. Even offroad the stock skids provide adequate protection for most common trail runs. Run what you brung till it needs upgrading. Front skid is a pretty good investment. The rest of the skids are less important in my experence. Just something to think about.
 
S

SRStaff

Bought an X
Location
Central Alabama
Type of terrain and your driving style will dictate the use for skids. Good spotters can also help with not needing skids. On terrain like good sized rocks in rock gardens where there is a good chance of shifting on the rocks and slaming on to the rocks; then they are a big plus. Ground clearance can make up for the less destructive to your X terrain and provide traction if the suspension flexes well.
 
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