Overheating?

Thanks48

Bought an X
Location
Chattanooga , TN
Okay I need help with this one ive tried just about everything I lnow to do. Heres the problem when going up steep inclines that are long heat hand rises and when it gets off incline it lowers, when I tirn on a/c heat hand rises when I tirn it off it lowers, when I put the X in overdrive off the heat hand rises turn it back on goes down. I took the thermostat out cleaned the radiator on both sides check the backflow hose new fan clutch. Any other ideas?
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Okay I need help with this one ive tried just about everything I lnow to do. Heres the problem when going up steep inclines that are long heat hand rises and when it gets off incline it lowers, when I tirn on a/c heat hand rises when I tirn it off it lowers, when I put the X in overdrive off the heat hand rises turn it back on goes down. I took the thermostat out cleaned the radiator on both sides check the backflow hose new fan clutch. Any other ideas?


When its reading hot on the dash gauge, take an OBD port reading. The dash gauge uses a sensor near the thermostat that is prone to getting wonky, and reading "hot" periodically. The OBD port is reading a different sensor that the UCU uses, and that sensor is far more reliable. If the OBD reading is not showing an over heat when the dash gauge is showing an overheat, its the sensor that is by the thermostat that is wrong, telling your dash gauge that you are overheating when you're not.
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
Yeah thats what I dont under stand its at the right level for about 3 weeks then 1 day it just drops and I dont ever see a leak or nothing

In addition to the OBD port check, your radiator cap seal might be leaking under pressure. When you lose/can't maintain pressure, the coolant can boil at a colder temp, and cavitation = less heat exchange, etc = over heating. Some missing steam would explain the loss in coolant level w/o a visible leak for example.

Also look in your oil for emulsion and your coolant for a rainbow sheen, etc, in case the two have decided to share fluids, etc.. (Head gasket)
 

LostandfoundX

Test Drive
Location
Idaho
Ive been having the same problems that you are talking about. It started a year ago, so I replaced the fan clutch and clean out the radiator. It then went away for a while until last week on a 97˚ day gong up a long steep hill. I just ordered a new thicker radiator. I'm hoping its overheating just because of an old radiator with 180,000 miles on it.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Yeah, I'm kind of in the same boat. Just had the water pump done w/ the timing belt about 15k ago, and ever since a quite sideways incident at nXm last year, whenever I idle for more than about 15 minutes, the temp just starts creeping up. If I rev it up, it'll drop right back down where its supposed to be.

SC Radiator and E-Fan, here I come!
 

mac11

Bought an X
Location
Nashville
Yeah, I'm kind of in the same boat. Just had the water pump done w/ the timing belt about 15k ago, and ever since a quite sideways incident at nXm last year, whenever I idle for more than about 15 minutes, the temp just starts creeping up. If I rev it up, it'll drop right back down where its supposed to be.

SC Radiator and E-Fan, here I come!

You sound like you're deff either low on water and/or have air pockets in the system.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
Why are you anti e-fan?

Oil cooler is a good idea. Using one of the pancake adapters that goes between the block and filter? I take it those have a drain bung on them so you can change that oil as well.
 

Prime

Shut up Baby, I know it!
Admin
Location
Denver Adjacent
What downsides?

Benefits: Reduced engine drag, better air flow, and not expensive if you go the junk yard Taurus fan route.

Not trolling, I'm genuinely curious.
 

NMTerras

Suspension Lift
Location
New Mexico
If you have the gen 1 skinny radiator, replace it with the thicker SC radiator. That eliminated ALL cooling issues on my 2000, including after I went to bigger tires, lift, performance mods, what have you. I would do that before putting an oil cooler, e-fan, whatever. It's an easy and relatively inexpensive fix.
 

NMTerras

Suspension Lift
Location
New Mexico
It's my opinion that the cooling system on the first gens is just not up to the task once you add weight and bigger tires. It just doesn't like it. But this is an OPINION only.

I've done all the same things everyone is suggesting with no real luck (except the E-Fan, I won't put one on any of my rigs)

The ONLY thing I have found that solved the problem completely is adding an engine oil cooler to my rig. That has lowered my operating temps by over 25* across the board. The HOTTEST I get now is 210*, and that's pushing it as HARD as I can, climbing a hill, at speed, towing, revs so high it's sounds like I'm gonna blow him sky high.

That's my .$02 on the subject.

Cheers,
Josh

On the 00's and 01's I don't think the cooling system was up to snuff even BEFORE offroad mods. I had numerous overheating issues before swapping to the SC radiator, and that was before I started off-road mods. There are a hundred stories out there about people curing their temp problems with the SC rad swap...
 

TJTJ

Skid Plates
Founding Member
Location
NJ
I'd say the only time I saw a direct benefit to the e-fan is after they became more reliable, and, at low speed, idling over trails...the mech fan is turning too slowly, and the efan is blasting away.

I put a "crossing Over ride" switch on mine to make sure the fan was OFF when hitting water...so the metal blades hitting stuff, or the efans' etc, are both eliminated as potential issues. (So I never had a stream or crossing failure...as the blades are not under power)

The shroud issues for efans ARE a big problem...as most are not set up correctly....with some guys using only the top part (The BL's stole the bottoms...etc) and the motor for the fan making a centered dead spot if the motor is too close to the fins, etc.

They really work better if the fan can be set back farther from the radiator so the dead spot is reduced and the shroud is set up to cover the entire radiator and not just a fan sized circle, to draw the air through the fins better, etc.

Without fixing the shroud problems, even if the efan's CFM is technically high enough, too many CFM are going around the radiator instead of through it.

So, for me at least, I only bothered when the mech fan clutches failed and the cost to replace it etc motivated me to just toss it and use the E. If the one on my 2004 craps out, I might do another one, or fix it, depending on mood. The one on the 2001 worked like a charm though.

So, yeah, unless you do a lock out for water and sweat the details on the shroud, it probably is not worth doing...and even then, only if the parts need replacing anyway.

The oil cooler and SC radiator are more along the lines of upgrades that I think would make a lot more sense for most people.

:D
 

LostandfoundX

Test Drive
Location
Idaho
Well I replaced my radiator and rusty thermostat. No more over heating! I did the same trail that I've overheated on before and it didn't this time. I've also been on multiple trails trying to overheat it, and it won't. As of now its fixed. Hope this helps
 
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