To give you some more information on what you specifically asked about:
Coaxial Cable: 18 feet of coaxial cable seems to be the standard. No need to get the Firestik "Fire Ring" fancy cable stuff. Just standard coaxial is fine. Just make sure you get the proper mount to mate up with standard coaxial.
Springs: I used a heavy duty spring. Seems to be personal preference and what kind of antenna you get. I have a 4 foot Firestik Firely and use a heavy duty spring. You can also get a more flexible antenna which would eliminate the need for it. They are cheap and easy, so most add them.
Antenna: 4 feet was a bit over kill for me, in hind sight. My friend has a mini 2 foot Firestik Firefly antenna that he mounted high up on his hatch, and he has had good success after tuning it. 3 feet seems to be the usual recommendation for Xterra hatch mounts. 4 feet is better for signal, but worse for garages, parking decks, tight trails, etc.
Antenna Location: Antennas work best when they are tall and unobstructed, with a flat surface underneath it ("ground plane") to reflect the signal. You could have a 4 foot antenna, but if you hatch mount it very low, not much is actually over the roof line. That can impact your range. A 2 foot antenna that is hatch mounted with the mount higher up the hatch seam would work about as good. A 4 foot antenna in the center of your roof would be the theoretical best, as it is tall, unobstructed, and the roof is a large and flat surface. I chose to mount mine on my front bumper head light guard. The mount is even with the hood, and the antenna is mostly unobstructed, and the signal can reflect off the hood. Of course, I have a steel bumper for this.
Radios: You can also look into the Cobra radio I have...the dx19III or dx19IV. Cheap and functional. As mentioned above, most radios are the same except size, number of knobs, and some extra features like the weather bands. More expensive option is the Cobra 75 ws xt which is a tiny, remote mount CB radio. All the controls are in the hand set, which is VERY easy for mounting and reducing clutter.
Mounts:
Most antenna mounts revolve around a simple stud mount. You need a bracket with a hole through it to mount it. The bottom half of the mount needs to be grounded...which is usually done automatically assuming the mounting bracket piece is connected to metal somewhere. That isn't always a good clean connection, so I used some extra wire with ring terminals crimped on the ends. I stuck one ring terminal on the bottom side of the mounting bracket, and ran the other to a sheet metal screw that screwed directly into the steel of my front bumper. This was the single biggest improvement to my reception and range. The stud/threaded adapter on the top side are electrically insulated from each other (nylon insulating washer, plus nylon injected internally to the mount), so the bottom half is grounded, and the top half that the antenna/spring screw into is not. If you hatch mount it, you may want to find a place to run a dedicated ground wire to.
Note that this explanation doesn't really answer the question about the no drill mount. How you get your mounting bracket to your desired location is irrelevant, electrically speaking. Just make sure you understand how the stud mount goes together and how to ground it. Most no drill mounts I have seen involve a U-bolt type mount that you can attach to a roof rack or something similar.