ericcris10sen
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Zion National Park, Utah
If you make a mistake, it's REAL easy to get off right away. No problem there. But if you let it sit for a long time and want it off, that can be a real pain in the ass.
RLC Bumper Questions
- Thread starter Pancake81
- Start date
- Location
- Long Island NY
I'm probably going to just to be safe
caseycamby
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Marion, NC
I used primer when I painted my front bumper.
ericcris10sen
First Fill-Up (of many)
- Location
- Zion National Park, Utah
I didn't use primer. The plastics on the side of my X peels, but I know I didn't do it properly and could care less about it. All I did with the bumper was use bedliner and that's that. It has been scratched, power washed, man handled, all of that and it doesn't come off.
- Location
- Probably in class..
James does better about talking on the phone, I'd just give him a call.
OffRdX
Lockers Installed
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
I found the thread with the pics yesterday, I like what I see. If the price is comparable with the 1st gen bumper I'm very interested. I gotta call him lol
- Location
- Probably in class..
I think you at in the 600$ ball park shipped
OffRdX
Lockers Installed
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
Ya that's crazy cheap compared to all of the others.
caseycamby
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Marion, NC
Cheap and great work! You can't beat it.
- Location
- Long Island NY
For those with foglights. What foglights did you guys put in the bumper? Idk if I want to go LEDs HIDs or normal lol
caseycamby
Suspension Lift
- Location
- Marion, NC
I went with the 4" round Tuff LEDs off Amazon
- Location
- Long Island NY
How are they? They just look funky in the picture. It's hard to picture them on the truck you know? Lol
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
It does kind of depend on what mounting you had installed. If it's just a single bolt tab, then there's lots of options. I'd definitely recommend a round light just for proper looks. Whichever way you go, please please please, select something with proper output and beam pattern.
To give you an idea of what I mean,
I'm not endorsing any particular brand here. But this is a good graphic to illustrate my point.
You'll notice that the halogen beam is spread wide and has a cutoff. Meaning that no light goes above a certain vertical point. Directly below that you see a large square of light. This is the output of most of the inexpensive LED fog lights. It's shooting in all directions. Up down left right, you name it. Not only are you wasting light by throwing it vertically, that vertical light is going directly into the eyes of oncoming traffic. Which is bad. And illegal.
If you plan to use them on the street you need to select a housing that is DOT approved for the application. That way the beam pattern will keep to the low and wide design that a fog light is supposed to.
Unfortunately, this often means spending more money.
They're not cheap by any means, but I'm going to direct you to JW Speaker. Take a look at what they have to offer. A great online distributor for them is Headlight Revolution.
To give you an idea of what I mean,
I'm not endorsing any particular brand here. But this is a good graphic to illustrate my point.
You'll notice that the halogen beam is spread wide and has a cutoff. Meaning that no light goes above a certain vertical point. Directly below that you see a large square of light. This is the output of most of the inexpensive LED fog lights. It's shooting in all directions. Up down left right, you name it. Not only are you wasting light by throwing it vertically, that vertical light is going directly into the eyes of oncoming traffic. Which is bad. And illegal.
If you plan to use them on the street you need to select a housing that is DOT approved for the application. That way the beam pattern will keep to the low and wide design that a fog light is supposed to.
Unfortunately, this often means spending more money.
They're not cheap by any means, but I'm going to direct you to JW Speaker. Take a look at what they have to offer. A great online distributor for them is Headlight Revolution.
Last edited:
- Location
- Long Island NY
Yea that's actually what I was looking for. I knew fogs had a specific beam.It does kind of depend on what mounting you had installed. If it's just a single bolt tab, then there's lots of options. I'd definitely recommend a round light just for proper looks. Whichever way you go, please please please, select something with proper output and beam pattern.
To give you an idea of what I mean,
I'm not endorsing any particular brand here. But this is a good graphic to illustrate my point.
You'll notice that the halogen beam is spread wide and has a cutoff. Meaning that no light goes above a certain vertical point. Directly below that you see a large square of light. This is the output of most of the inexpensive LED fog lights. It's shooting in all directions. Up down left right, you name it. Not only are you wasting light by throwing it vertically, that vertical light is going directly into the eyes of oncoming traffic. Which is bad. And illegal.
If you plan to use them on the street you need to select a housing that is DOT approved for the application. That way the beam pattern will keep to the low and wide design that a fog light is supposed to.
Unfortunately, this often means spending more money.
They're not cheap by any means, but I'm going to direct you to jwspeaker.com. Take a look at what they have to offer. A great online distributor for them us headlightrevolution.com.
I'll find out this afternoon what mounting there is
Okay guys, got her all mounted up. Had a buddy come through town a few days ago with his welding rig, so he popped by and welded my bull bar on for me.
Next I spent 2 nights primering, sanding and applying dupli-color bed armour. Wasn’t convinced on the bed liner at first but it turned out really good.
Then ripped the old bumper off, mounted the winch to the RLC Bumper, put it on a tool stool, and managed to get her all mounted up by myself (just moved to a new town, so not much for helping hands around yet).
Then wired the lights up to the original harness, and viola. Sweet ass bumper ready to go!
My front did drop down about 2”, so will have to crank the torsions bars back up. Just ordered some rear shackles too, might as well do the whole shot.
Let me know what you think.
Next I spent 2 nights primering, sanding and applying dupli-color bed armour. Wasn’t convinced on the bed liner at first but it turned out really good.
Then ripped the old bumper off, mounted the winch to the RLC Bumper, put it on a tool stool, and managed to get her all mounted up by myself (just moved to a new town, so not much for helping hands around yet).
Then wired the lights up to the original harness, and viola. Sweet ass bumper ready to go!
My front did drop down about 2”, so will have to crank the torsions bars back up. Just ordered some rear shackles too, might as well do the whole shot.
Let me know what you think.
- Location
- Denver Adjacent
Looks awesome!
I really want to know what the variances are that allow some of you to tuck your bumper up flush with the fender. Maybe I just need to trim my grill a little. Because that's what's stopping it.
I really want to know what the variances are that allow some of you to tuck your bumper up flush with the fender. Maybe I just need to trim my grill a little. Because that's what's stopping it.
You want a fair amount of clearance so when the body and frame flex relative to each other, the bumper doesn't hit the fenders/body, etc. At least 1/2" or more is the minimum, although I usually go with closer to 3/4" or so.
Frogstar7055
Wheeling
- Location
- Jacksonville FL
Ready to pull the trigger on one of these.