Grandpa X's Xterra

Grandpa X

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Luverne Mn
Track bar mount, shock mount, spring seat, radius arm mount (with bump-stop on top that lines up with frame).

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This axle stuffs 2-3 inches more than other suspension designs being it does not require a truss over the differential. The oil pan ends up being the limiting factor on this setup and even more when a truss is in-between. This rig is built to fit 33 inch tires. If a builder goes bigger the wheel wells tend to be the limiting factor. Some folks get out the sawsall, install a body lift, or bump-stop the axle from stuffing as far.

The radius arm setup works fine with the stock exhaust system. No extra room needed for links etc..

Coil-overs are what is "in" right now. And they are supposed to perform better on speedy long beatings. Not sure our 5500 lbs SUV with 170 horse (when new) could be considered "speedy". However, the beauty of SASing a Nissan is the custom wants and needs that fits a builders desire. I tend to go with old school coils and shocks. They add up to less than one naked coil-over body (no springs). These type coils worked on the 70's Ford pickups for years without a failure. Two shocks every 100,000 miles are normally under 100 bucks.

Everything adds up when SaSing... one has to add up to see if the "cost" is worth the "buck" on every decision. There is a point of too cheap... one strives to find the sweet spot between overbuilt and unsafe to drive on the road.

AlpineSpirits rig was the father of many of the ideas you see on this build. He drove it on wash board gravel roads for a couple years before our basic design was copied to other rigs.

This Xterra goes beyond that to a skid/bellypan setup, the old school coils/shocks, a Toyota Landcruiser steering box, and the custom (built to Xterra spec) axle. Once again it will be driven for a fair amount of time before the process moves on.... The eventual goal adding a front axle to a rig with the standard 2 inch body lift/shackle setup (PML) on the rear end. If the front axle can be stuffed deep enough (result same fundamental height as a PML rig) with a fair amount of up-travel, the rear axle setup on a PML rig could be left alone(not lifted). This would lower the cost exponentially... (no new rear shocks/springs/driveshaft/slipyoke eliminator/etc....)
 
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drbandkgb

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
I like the idea of leaving the rear alone.. I'm doing my SAS for durability vs a tall SUV...

Did you make your crossmember? That's my one issue right now.. My set up will be a hybrid
 

Grandpa X

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Luverne Mn
I'm doing my SAS for durability vs a tall SUV...

:kewl:

Did you make your crossmember?

Yes

With most radius arm "crossmember" setups removing the tranny or installing doublers is a pain in the butt. The integrated skid design on this rig was made so the center "skid" can be removed and tranny work done without removing the radius arms. The center skid can also be customized to fit different transfercase configurations (doublers,atlas adapter, etc).

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Also working on a Bellypan/skid setup for a buddy that is going gonzo with his build. This setup has a radius arm front and a double triangulated 4 link rear. All the links will be even with the skid on the truck.. .thus less to get hung up on.

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We are still working on it... so to speak.. but this is the next stage. With this pic you can see how the side plates have wings that encompass the frame for strength. The rear joints slam up against the rear crossmember (the crossmember the rear driveshaft just clears). The pan then gets welded all the way across just in front of the rear joints to that rear factory crossmember. The center skid will still be removable for tranny work etc...

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xterraminator

Wheeling
Location
Maple Ridge,BC
Looks good. Looks like you have some good fabrication skills. I like how the back end of the lower control arms are tucked up into the frame and skid pan area.

Sent from Samsung Note 2 using Tapatalk
 

Roadwarrior

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
.... The eventual goal adding a front axle to a rig with the standard 2 inch body lift/shackle setup (PML) on the rear end. If the front axle can be stuffed deep enough (result same fundamental height as a PML rig) with a fair amount of up-travel, the rear axle setup on a PML rig could be left alone(not lifted). This would lower the cost exponentially... (no new rear shocks/springs/driveshaft/slipyoke eliminator/etc....)

This is precisely the route I want to take with mine. Thus why I think one day it might be put on a flatbed (or trailer) and head out your way. Granted the previous thought was to have my truck become another project, but if I could play my cards right, I would like to be out there and learn from the best.

Awesome build, keep up the good work, I can't wait to see more.
 

Ddog346

Bought an X
Location
Coventry, CT
Okay i feel dumb now, its a Fronty grill. But nonetheless, such an impeccable build! Any Xterra owner has got to appreciate this, whether this was their goal or not
 

Roadwarrior

Titan Swapped / SAS'd
Founding Member
I was a fan of the 33s because of how clean and almost stock the truck looked, yet it was very capable.

With 35s it just looks like a beast that's ready to roll.

Sent from space and stuff
 

Grandpa X

First Fill-Up (of many)
Location
Luverne Mn
I was a fan of the 33s because of how clean and almost stock the truck looked, yet it was very capable.

With 35s it just looks like a beast that's ready to roll.

The way it was built the 4.88's were almost too much (wishing there was a sixth gear). I slapped these wheels on wondering how the ratio would work with the bigger tires. So far it works wonderfully at 5500ft with the A/C on. Almost wondering if I should have built the axles with 4.56's to work with the little 33's better being they are the tires it was built for.

When this rig was ifs (33inch tires, and 4.90s in a 233b) first gear would hold it in my driveway. When I changed to a D44 (4.88's and 33's) first gear will not hold it in the driveway. It is looking like the D44 uses less energy to get the job done.

The moral of the story...the 33's will tow a load better up into the mountains and I can use up the pile of 35's laying around here for Daily driving. SCORE!

(and no.. find your own 35's..)
 
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