TKDX00 - Steena's Build

[granitex]

Count on the bolts not being too cooperative, lots of salt used around here. And your truck has a few years under its belt. Hit every bolt and nut with PB Blaster a couple of times in the days prior, it will help.

Think about how you are going to get the factory bushings out of the diff. I used a ball joint press to push out the rubber centers, and finished the outer metal sleeve by cutting a slit in it with a recriprocating saw to releave the tension. Then driving it out with an air hammer. You will probably need to add some heat to the factory bushings while they are under pressure to get them to go all of the way.

If you have air tools, and some help, the time line is doable. But I would have the expectation that it will take twice as long as you think it should.

Still looks like fun to me though.

 

[TKDx00]

...Hit every bolt and nut with PB Blaster a couple of times in the days prior, it will help.

I've been hittin the bolts w/ PB for about a week now.

Think about how you are going to get the factory bushings out of the diff. I used a ball joint press to push out the rubber centers, and finished the outer metal sleeve by cutting a slit in it with a recriprocating saw to releave the tension. Then driving it out with an air hammer. You will probably need to add some heat to the factory bushings while they are under pressure to get them to go all of the way.

Actually the Diff Drop will be the last thing I do. Don't have a BJ Press or heat right now. Got a few air tool, not a hammer tho...gotta get one. Saws... I got plenty of those. LOL

If you have air tools, and some help, the time line is doable. But I would have the expectation that it will take twice as long as you think it should.
Still looks like fun to me though.

Because my schedule is soo different than everyone elses, I'm alone on this. And to be honest, I have no expectations other than to be finished when I'm finished.

 

[Silver dude]

Yeah on my diff drop I smoked the bushings out with a Mapp torch. Burned the rubber pretty much peeling it away with a screw driver. Then as granite did I cut a notch in the sleeves and hammered them out. You can rent ball joint presses at the auto parts stores. Hammer and silicon spray helped on the install.

If you run out of time you can leave the diff out, wire the CV's and driveshaft up out of the way and drive till you find time to work on it again. I've gone week long stretches with no front diff. No different then the 2wd versions really just make sure your hubs are disengaged.

TB's can be troublesome finding the sweet spot where they easily slide out. They are always under bind so monkey around with your floor jack at the LCA ball joint lifting with the tb adjusters loose and the frame supported on jack stands. Eventually you find a place where they seem under less angled bind and easily slide out. Pry bars help to.

When installing the UCA's you can pretty much count on cutting them off. So keep many many blades as the cut is rather tough.

 

[TKDx00]

Thanks for the informaion... The BJ press and Air Hammer you guys mentioned I've been eyeing lately, might be a good time to pick them up. Main things will be UCA's(Bushings/Cam Bolts/Bump Stops), IAB and TB's.

 

[TKDx00]

Been trying to remove the IAB bolts for the past 2 days...them boys won't budge. :shucks:
Just keep PBin 'em I guess. Since I don't have heat. Have to try the air wrench next or a BFH and a breaker bar.

 

[granitex]

Are you working on the bolts that go through the frame? or the centerlink. For the frame take a shot at the nuts on the inside of the frame instead of only working on the heads of the bolts. but an air inpact is always a good investment.

 

[Silver dude]

Yeah as granite said work from the back. Use a cheater bar, piece of pipe over your breaker bar for more leverage. Otherwise your impact wrench should rattle them loose without issue.

 

[TKDx00]

I'm working from both sides now. At first I was only spraying the nutz, once I excepted they weren't going to give, I started on the other side. I've got a 2ft. 3/8 breaker and a 19mm impact socket but no 19mm wrench. All my big wrenches are standard. DUHHHH!!!!! Already spec'd out my metric set from Craftsman.

I guess multiple yrs of salt rust beats brute force. I've got 3 choices now: 10lb 1 handed sledge, 20lb 2 handed sledge, then an impact wrench...I'm on a mission.

 

[Silver dude]

Yeah need some higher strength tools 1/2 drive.

The Ingersoll rand impact 1/2 socket sets on Amazon.com are a terrific buy for the price. Use them professionally at work everyday never had a issue.

Your basic craftsman combination wrench sets work very well. I've beat them with hammers used long pipes on them they are really stout.

With rust you usually need either heat, like a torch. Or liberality soak it with penetrating oil. Impact like tapping a wrench with a hammer or a air hammer seems to work best.

 

[TKDx00]

Yeah need some higher strength tools 1/2 drive.

The Ingersoll rand impact 1/2 socket sets on Amazon.com are a terrific buy for the price. Use them professionally at work everyday never had a issue.

Your basic craftsman combination wrench sets work very well. I've beat them with hammers used long pipes on them they are really stout.

With rust you usually need either heat, like a torch. Or liberality soak it with penetrating oil. Impact like tapping a wrench with a hammer or a air hammer seems to work best.

I correct myself...I meant to say 1/2 instead of 3/8...I've got both.
My issue is that I've stripped my fair share of nuts and twisted off bolt heads using the brute force method in the past. I've kinda tried to back away from doing that these days, metric stuff is expensive. I've never worked with a torch and don't think now's the time to learn...maybe on my rusty old lawn mower...lol. For now, I'll stick with the hammers to be safe.

 

[granitex]

ATF and Acitone in a 50/50 mix also works wonders on rusted parts. it is better to soak it, but a drip drip drip can also be effective. Dont worry about braking the bolts. they are a lot stronger that you think they are. Not to sound like an ass, but you were going in the right direction??

 

[Silver dude]

Keeping a stock of fresh bolts on hand. Kind of comes with living in the midwest. Every once and a while you'll need to sacrifice bolts to get what you need. If its something I can prepare for I try to line up a secondary form of transport so I have a bolt runner. But, its been a long time since I have actually had to break things to get at things. I do remember the struggle with those exact bolts though and air wrench was the only way for me. All bolts are still in use today. I wish you luck.

 

[TKDx00]

Both you guys give words of wisdom to heed...

Granite...NOT an ass question...I'm always second guessing that with myself and have gotten into a habit of checking the threads for correct directions rather than just relying on the "Lefty Lucy, Righty Tighty" method. That ATF/Acitone mix I'll have to try.

Dude... You mentioned extra bolts way back on XOC and it kinda stuck in my head. I've started to stock up on extras myself. Mainly trying to get Grade8 when possible. Until I can make that mix, I'll keep PBin 'em eveyday till they give.

Tomorrow I'll pick up the last of the slider metal. Cut the steprail connectors @ 15* so the Mrs. can still step up. Drill the support plate holes using the old steprail plate as the guide. The slider, steprails and connectors are 2x2x1/4" tubing w/ 1/4" gusset plates... BEEFYYY. I seem to like 1/4" thickness. lol

 

[TKDx00]

Metal's all cut and grinded snooth...ready for welding. :w00t:

Note to anyone making your own sliders... the rear frame bolt holes support can not be cut the same as the front and middle. The bolts that hold the leaf spring support is in the way. :eeks:
I had to recut them after check everything would bolt up. :tears:

Tomorrow, I'll hit those IAB nutz.

 

[TKDx00]

Got a surprise from the wife tonight. While dropping her off to do some shopping at Carson's, she said I could go to Sears and get whatever I wanted. I told her "don't tell me that cause I could spend a bit". She restated..."whetever you want". Well it figures what I wanted they don't sell.
SO... tomorrow it's off to Home Depot for the Lincoln 140 welder and STUFF !!! WATCHOUTDERNOW !!!!

 

[Ricel]

Pick up a MAP torch. One of the little ones that hooks up to a small bottle. Saved my ass many many times. Also thumbs up on the Lincoln.

 

[Muadeeb]

The ONLY way I can remember which way to spin stuff is to look at my right hand

This is called the "Right Hand Rule" and applies to any standard threaded device. You point the thumb of your right hand in the direction you want the bolt to go, and your fingers wrap around in the direction you need to spin the tool.

 

[TKDx00]

But I'm left handed!?!?!?

 

[TKDx00]

Picked up the Lincoln 140 and stuff today. Wire brush, hammer, gloves, helmet and sprung for a MAP torch. A CD comes with the 140, it's informative but as it says...practice is the only way to get better.

 

[Macland]

Picked up the Lincoln 140 and stuff today. Wire brush, hammer, gloves, helmet and sprung for a MAP torch. A CD comes with the 140, it's informative but as it says...practice is the only way to get better.

NICE! I wish I could just go out and pick one up. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

 

[Muadeeb]

But I'm left handed!?!?!?

That just means you're in your right mind.

 

[TKDx00]

NICE! I wish I could just go out and pick one up. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

First up slider/stepsrails. Then tire carrier. After that...who knows...Iron Man needs a new suit...lol

 

[capt_lou]

Picked up the Lincoln 140 and stuff today. Wire brush, hammer, gloves, helmet and sprung for a MAP torch. A CD comes with the 140, it's informative but as it says...practice is the only way to get better.

This is my next big tool purchase. But will have to wait till August ...it was either this or Vegas.

 

[idratherbe]

Nice purchase! Lot of good reviews for that welder. Seems like the perfect one to learn on. Better then average duty cycle too.

 

[TKDx00]

This is my next big tool purchase. But will have to wait till August ...it was either this or Vegas.

Vegas...hmmmm unless you're lucky enough to win back the cost of the trip, I think the welder is the safer bet... pardon the pun.

 

[TKDx00]

Nice purchase! Lot of good reviews for that welder. Seems like the perfect one to learn on. Better then average duty cycle too.

booklet says 20% duty cycle. Does that mean for a 1 hour time frame I can weld for 12 minutes constant then have to let it cool for 48 minutes?

 

[idratherbe]

I'm not 100% sure but that sounds right. For example I think the Harbor freight welders can only go something like 5 minutes out of an hour. I am by no means even remotely close to being someone who has any idea what they're talking about when it comes to welding. I've just been doing a lot of reading on the subject as of late cause I'd love to add it to the resume.

 

[TKDx00]

... I've just been doing a lot of reading on the subject as of late cause I'd love to add it to the resume.

Nothing against anyone or any company, but prices for sliders, bumpers, skids and roof racks just seemed a bit high for me for the products. So, same here. Had a friend let me learn a bit on his equipment until I was able to get a welder. Again, nothing against anyone or any company, but I believe I can make my own. And I will. Nothing fancy, but in the end I can say... I made that.

 

[granitex]

Making our own stuff is always more fun than buying someone elses work. Sometimes it is just not practical to make it yourself but it is always more fun. Sliders, roof racks, light bars, bumpers, and trailers are a great place to start.

 

[Macland]

Making our own stuff is always more fun than buying someone elses work. Sometimes it is just not practical to make it yourself but it is always more fun. Sliders, roof racks, light bars, bumpers, and trailers are a great place to start.

In high school ag mechanics class we would make trailer-cookers/smokers all of the time. Those sold for good money too. We also took an old trailer that was rusted out and totally remade it. We ended up taking that trailer to Colorado loaded down with 4-wheelers and coolers. It's one of the coolest feelings to build your own stuff and then use it. I might have to save up for a welder now.

 

[TKDx00]

Played around with the new toy tonight to get a feeling for the feed setting. Welded a few scrap pieces together. Got a new door stop...sortof. :lols:

Tomorrow after work gonna try some heat on those IA bolts.

 

[TKDx00]

Been raining on my off days so haven't been able to get under and finish the IAB. So instead I put the end caps on the sliders and steprails. Then I had to change the steprail design after finding a miss cut in the connecting flanges. So now I have 2 54x2x2x1/4" tubes for my rear bumper.

Nice how things just seem to work themselves out.

 

[TKDx00]

Started putting the sliders on today. There is so much rust in the bolt threads that the new bolts wouldn't go in. So I decided to weld those boys on. Got 4 of the 6 supports on before loosing the light. Once they're on, rust proofing and painting. Then onto the suspension.

 

[TKDx00]

Sliders are on with first coat of flat black. It's about to rain now so had to pack up. If there are demerits given out I'll get 'em for overwelding and imperfect lines. They ain't perfect but they'll damn well will hold. LOL

 

[BlOwNXT]

As long as they work. That's the important part lol can't wait to see some photos.


Sent........

 

[NMTerras]

Pics or it didn't happen

 

[TKDx00]

I've got some pics just haven't posted them. And a few welder burns on my arms to prove it. :sure:

 

[NMTerras]

I've got some pics just haven't posted them. And a few welder burns on my arms to prove it. :sure:

POSTED pics or it didn't happen.

 

[TKDx00]

POSTED pics or it didn't happen.

You'll just have to wait til I make something someone else hasn't done yet, lol

 

[TN4x4Xterra]

Pics or it didn't happen, pal!